At L are two pulleys or wheels, of different diameters, moving upon a common centre, by which the jack sinkers are relieved from the back springs, and thrown downwards to form the loops upon the needles. About the larger wheel is a band of whipcord, passing twice round, the extremities of which are attached to what is called the slur, which disengages the jacks from the back springs. The smaller pulley, by another band, communicates with the right and left treadle; so that these treadles, when pressed alternately, turn the pulleys about in an inverted order. The directions of these bands also appear more plainly in the front elevation, [fig. 558.] The construction of the slur, and its effect upon the jacks, will also be rendered apparent by [fig. 559.] In this figure, eight jacks are represented in section, the tail part of three of which, 1, 2, 3, are thrown up by the slur in its progress from left to right; the fourth is in the act of rising, and the remaining four, 5, 6, 7, and 8, are still unacted upon, the slur not yet having reached them. As the slur acts in the direction of the dotted line X, X, [fig. 556.], behind the centres of the jacks, it is hardly necessary to remark, that this forcing up of the tails must of course depress the joints by which the sinkers in front are suspended. The jack sinkers falling successively from the loops on every alternate needle, in the way represented at [fig. 560.], where both kinds of sinkers appear in section, the light part expressing what is above the point at which the throat of the sinker operates upon the thread, and the dark part what is below. The second set, or, as they are called, the lead sinkers, from the manner of jointing them, and suspending them from the bar above, appear still elevated; the position of the bar being represented by the line A, B. But when these are pulled down to the level of the former by the operator’s hands, the whole looping will be completed, and the thread C, D, which is still slack, will be brought to its full and proper degree of tension, which is regulated by stop screws, so as to be tempered or altered at pleasure. The sinking of this second set of sinkers, may be easily explained by [fig. 561.] The direction of the sinkers is expressed by the line E; the bar from which they are suspended will be at A; the top frame is in the direction from A to B; the back standards at D, and the joint at B, is the centre of motion. If E is pulled perpendicularly downwards, the spring C, will be contracted, and its upper extreme point G, will be brought nearer to its lower extreme point F, which is fixed. Again, when the force which has depressed E is removed, the spring C will revert to its former state, and the sinkers will rise. The raising of the jack sinkers and jacks takes place at the same time, by the hosier raising his hands; and for the cause of this we must revert to [fig. 556.] The lead sinkers in rising, lay hold of notches, which raise the extreme parts of the set of jacks Z, Z, which are called half-jacks. Between the extremities of these at Z, Z, is a cross bar, which, in descending, presses all the intermediate jacks behind the common centre, and restores them to their original posture, where they are secured by the back springs, until they are again relieved by the operation of the slur recrossing at the next course.
Working of the frame.—In order to work a frame, the whole apparatus being previously put into complete order, the hosier places himself on the seat B in front, and provides himself with a bobbin of yarn or stuff. This bobbin he places loosely on a vertical pin of wire, driven into one side of the frame contiguous to the needles, so that it may turn freely as the stuff is unwound from it. Taking the thread in his hand, he draws it loosely along the needles, behind the barbs, and under the throats of the sinkers. He then presses down one of the treadles to pass the slur along, and unlock the jacks from the back springs, that they may fall in succession. When this is done, the number of loops thus formed is doubled by bringing down the lead sinkers, and the new formed loops are lodged under the barbs of the needles by bringing forward the sinkers. The preceding course, and former fabric, being then again pushed back, the barbs are shut by depressing the middle treadle, and forcing down the presser upon the needles. The former work is now easily brought over the shut needles, after which, by raising the hands, both sets of sinkers are raised; the jacks are locked by the back springs, and the hosier goes on to another course.
From this it will be apparent, that the remark made in the outset is well founded, that there are in reality, no complicated or difficult movements in the stocking-frame. Almost the whole are merely those of levers moving upon their respective fulcra, excepting that of the carriage which gives the horizontal motion to the sinkers, and that is merely an alternate motion on four wheels. Yet the frame is a machine which requires considerable experience and care, both to work it to advantage, and also to keep it in good order. This circumstance arises greatly from the small compass in which a number of moving parts must be included. Owing to this, the needles, unless cautiously and delicately handled, are easily bent or injured. The same circumstance applies with equal or greater force to the sinkers, which must be so very thin as to be easily injured. But as these must work freely, both in a perpendicular and horizontal direction between the needles, in a very confined and limited space, the slightest variation in either, from being truly and squarely placed, unavoidably injures the others. When a hosier, either ignorant of the mechanical laws, of their relation to each other, or too impatient to wait for the assistance of another, attempts to rectify defects, he in most cases increases them tenfold, and renders the machine incapable of working at all, until repaired by some more experienced person. This circumstance has given rise to a set of men employed in this trade, and distinguished by the name of upsetters; and these people, beside setting new frames to work, have frequently more employment in repairing old ones injured by want of care or skill, than many country apothecaries, who live in unhealthy parishes, find in tampering with the disorders of mankind.
It seems unnecessary to go further into detail respecting a machine so well known, and which requires practical attention even more than most others. It may, therefore, be sufficient to describe shortly some of its varieties, the most simple and common of which is the rib stocking-frame.
Rib stocking-frame.—This frame, which, next to the common frame, is most extensively in use, is employed for working those striped or ribbed stockings, which are very common in all the different materials of which hosiery is formed. In principle it does not differ from the common frame, and not greatly in construction. The preceding general description will nearly apply to this machine with equal propriety as to the former: that part, however, by which the ribs or stripes are formed, is entirely an addition, and to the application of this additional machinery it may be proper to pay the chief attention, referring chiefly to [fig. 558.], which is a front elevation.
This figure has been already referred to for the illustration of those parts of the machinery which are common to both, and those parts therefore require no recapitulation. The principle of weaving ribbed hosiery possesses considerable affinity to that which subsists in the weaving of that kind of cloth which is distinguished by the name of tweeling, for the formation of stripes, with some variation arising merely from the different nature of the fabric. In cloth weaving, two different kinds of yarn intersecting each other at right angles, are employed; in hosiery only one is used. In the tweeling of cloth, striped as dimity, in the cotton or kerseymere, and in the woollen manufacture, the stripes are produced by reversing these yarns. In hosiery, where only one kind of yarn is used, a similar effect is produced by reversing the loops. To effect this reversing of the loops, a second set of needles is placed upon a vertical frame, so that the bends of the hooks may be nearly under those of the common needles. These needles are cast into tin moulds, pretty similar to the former, but more oblique or bevelled towards the point, so as to prevent obstructions in working them. They are also screwed to a bar of iron, generally lighter than the other, and secured by means of plates: this bar is not fixed, but has a pivot in each end, by means of which the bar may have a kind of oscillatory motion on these pivots. Two frames of iron support this bar; that in which it oscillates being nearly vertical, but inclined a little towards the other needles. [Fig. 562.], which is a profile elevation, will serve to illustrate the relative position of each bar to the other. The lower or horizontal frame, the ends only of which can be seen in [fig. 558.] under a a, appears in profile in [fig. 562.], where it is distinguished by d. The vertical frame at a is attached to this by two centre screws, which serve as joints for it to move in. On the top of this frame is the rib-needle bar at f, in [figs. 552.] and [562.], and one needle is represented in [fig. 562.] at f. At g is a small presser, to shut the barbs of the rib-needles, in the same manner as the large one does those of the frame. At h is one of the frame needles, to show the relative position of the one set to the other. The whole of the rib-bar is not fitted with needles like the other; for here needles are only placed where ribs or stripes are to be formed, the intervals being filled up with blank leads, that is to say, with sockets of the same shape as the others, but without needles; being merely designed to fill the bar and preserve the intervals. Two small handles depend from the needle bar, by which the oscillatory motion upon the upper centres is given. The rising and sinking motion is communicated to this machine by chains which are attached to iron sliders below, and which are wrought by the hosier’s heel when necessary. The pressure takes place partly by the action of the small presser, and partly by the motion of the needles in descending, A small iron slider is placed behind the rib-needles, which rises as they descend, and serves to free the loops perfectly from each other.
In the weaving of ribbed hosiery, the plain and rib courses are wrought alternately. When the plain are finished, the rib-needles are raised between the others, but no additional stuff is supplied. The rib-needles intersecting the plain ones, merely lay hold of the last thread, and, by again bringing it through that which was on the rib-needle before, give it an additional looping, which reverses the line of chaining, and raises the rib above the plain intervals, which have only received a single knitting.