Employment of indigo in dyeing.—As indigo is insoluble in water, and as it can penetrate the fibres of wool, cotton, silk, and flax, only when in a state of solution, the dyer must study to bring it into this condition in the most complete and economical manner. This is effected either by exposing it to the action of bodies which have an affinity for oxygen superior to its own, such as certain metals and metallic oxides, or by mixing it with fermenting matters, or, finally, by dissolving it in a strong acid, such as the sulphuric. The second of the above methods is called the warm blue, or pastel vat; and being the most intricate, we shall begin with it.
Before the substance indigo was known in Europe, woad having been used for dyeing blue, gave the name of woad vats to the apparatus. The vats are sometimes made of copper, at other times of iron or wood, the last alone being well adapted for the employment of steam. The dimensions are very variable; but the following may be considered as the average size: depth, 71⁄2 feet; width below, 4 feet, above, 5 feet. The vats are built in such a way that the fire does not affect their bottom, but merely their sides half way up; and they are sunk so much under the floor of the dyehouse, that their upper half only is above it, and is surrounded with a mass of masonry to prevent the dissipation of the heat. About 3 or 31⁄2 feet under the top edge an iron ring is fixed, called the champagne by the French, to which a net is attached in order to suspend the stuffs out of contact of the sediment near the bottom.
In mounting the vat the following articles are required: 1. woad prepared by fermentation, or woad merely dried, which is better, because it may be made to ferment in the vat, without the risk of becoming putrid, as the former is apt to do; 2. indigo, previously ground in a proper mill; 3. madder; 4. potash; 5. slaked quicklime; 6. bran. In France, weld is commonly used instead of potash.
The indigo mill is represented in [figs. 579.] and [580.] a is a four-sided iron cistern, cylindrical or rounded in the bottom, which rests upon gudgeons in a wooden frame; it has an iron lid b, consisting of two leaves, between which the rod c moves to and fro, receiving a vibratory motion from the crank d. By this construction, a frame e, which is made fast in the cistern by two points e′ e′, is caused to vibrate, and to impart its swing movement to six iron rollers f f f, three being on each side of the frame, which triturate the indigo mixed with water into a fine paste. Whenever the paste is uniformly ground, it is drawn off by the stopcock g, which had been previously filled up by a screwed plug, to prevent any of the indigo from lodging in the orifice of the cock, and thereby escaping the action of the rollers. The cistern is nearly three feet long.
The vat being filled with clear river water, the fire is to be kindled, the ingredients introduced, and if fermented woad be employed, less lime is needed than with the merely dried plant. Meanwhile the water is to be heated to the temperature of 160° Fahr., and maintained at this pitch till the deoxidizement and solution of the indigo begin to shew themselves, which, according to the state of the constituents, may happen in 12 hours, or not till after several days. The first characters of incipient solution are blue bubbles, called the flowers, which rise upon the surface, and remain like a head of soap-suds for a considerable time before they fall; then blue coppery shining veins appear with a like coloured froth. The hue of the liquor now passes from blue to green, and an ammoniacal odour begins to be exhaled. Whenever the indigo is completely dissolved, an acetic smelling acid may be recognized in the vat, which neutralizes all the alkali, and may occasion even an acid excess, which should be saturated with quicklime. The time for doing this cannot be in general very exactly defined. When quicklime has been added at the beginning in sufficient quantity, the liquor appears of a pale wine-yellow colour, but if not, it acquires this tint on the subsequent introduction of the lime. Experience has not hitherto decided in favour of the one practice or the other.
As soon as this yellow colour is formed in the liquor, and its surface becomes blue, the vat is ready for the dyer, and the more lime it takes up without being alkaline, the better is its condition. The dyeing power of the vat may be kept up during six months, or more, according to the fermentable property of the woad. From time to time, madder and bran must be added to it, to revive the fermentation of the sediment, along with some indigo and potash, to replace what may have been abstracted in the progress of dyeing. The quantity of indigo must be proportional, of course, to the depth or lightness of the tints required.
During the operation of this blue vat two accidents are apt to occur; the first, which is the more common one, is called the throwing back, in French the cuve rebuté, and in German, the Scharf or Schwartzwerden (the becoming sharp or black); the second is the putrefaction of the ingredients. Each is discoverable by its peculiar smell, which it is impossible to describe. The first is occasioned by the employment of too much quicklime, whereby the liquor becomes neutral or even alkaline. This fault may be recognized by the fading of the green, or by the dark green, or nearly black appearance of the liquor; and by a dull blue froth, owing to a film of lime. The remedy for a slight degree of this vicious condition, is to suspend in the liquor a quantity of bran tied up in a bag, and to leave it there till the healthy state be restored. Should the evil be more inveterate, a decoction of woad, madder, and bran must be introduced. Strong acids are rather detrimental. Sulphate of iron has been recommended, because its acid precipitates the lime, while its oxide reduces the indigo to the soluble state.
The decomposition or putrefaction of the blue vat is an accident the reverse of the preceding, arising from the transition of the acetous into the putrid fermentation, whereby the dyeing faculty is destroyed. Such a misfortune can happen only towards the commencement of working the vat, whilst the woad is still powerful, and very little indigo has been dissolved. Whenever the vat is well charged with indigo, that accident cannot easily supervene. In both of these distemperatures the elevation of the temperature of the vat aggravates the evil.