PERFUMERY, ART OF (Parfumerie, Fr.; Wohlriechende-kunst, Germ.); consists in the preparation of different products, such as fats or pommades, essential oils, distilled spirits, pastes, pastilles, and essences.
Fats ought to be pounded in a marble mortar, without addition of water, till all the membranes be completely torn; then subjected to the heat of a water-bath in a proper vessel. The fat soon melts, and the albumen of the blood coagulating, carries with it all the foreign substances; the liquid matter should be skimmed, and passed through a canvas filter.
Of pommades by infusion.—Rose, orange-flower, and cassia. Take 334 pounds of hog’s lard, and 166 of beef suet. These 500 pounds are put into a pan called bugadier; and when melted, 150 pounds of rose-leaves nicely plucked are added, taking care to stir the mixture every hour. The infusion thus prepared is to remain at rest for 24 hours; at the end of this time, the pommade is again melted, and well stirred to prevent its adherence to the bottom of the melting-pan. The mass is now to be poured out into canvas, and made into rectangular bricks or loaves, which are subjected to a press, in order to separate the solid matter from the soft pommade. These brick-shaped pieces being put into an iron-bound barrel perforated all over its staves, the pommade is to be allowed to exude on all sides, and flow down into a copper vessel placed under the trough of the press. This manipulation should be repeated with the same fat ten or twelve times; or in other words, 3000 pounds of fresh rose-leaves should be employed to make a good pommade.
The pommade of orange-flowers is made in the same manner, as also the pommade of cassia.
Of pommades without infusion.—Jasmin, tuberose, jonquil, narcissus, and violet.
A square frame, called tiame, is made of four pieces of wood, well joined together, 2 or 3 inches deep, into which a pane of glass is laid, resting upon inside ledges near the bottom. Upon the surface of the pane the simple pommade of hog’s lard and suet is spread with a pallet knife; and into this pommade the sweet-scented flowers are stuck fresh in different points each successive day, during two or three months, till the pommade has acquired the desired richness of perfume. The above-described frames are piled closely over each other. Some establishments at Grasse possess from 3000 to 4000 of them.
Of oils.—Rose, orange-flower, and cassia oils, are made by infusion, like the pommades of the same perfumes; taking care to select oils perfectly fresh. As to those of jasmin, tuberose, jonquil, violet, and generally all delicate flowers, they are made in the following manner. Upon an iron frame, a piece of cotton cloth is stretched, imbued with olive oil of the first quality, and covered completely with a thin bed of flowers. Another frame is similarly treated,—and in this way a pile is made. The flowers must be renewed till the oil is saturated with their odour. The pieces of cotton cloth are then carefully pressed to extrude the oil. This last operation requires commonly 7 or 8 days.
Of distillation.—The essential oils or essences, of which the great manufacture is in the south of France, are of rose, neroli, lavender, lemon thyme, common thyme, and rosemary. For the mode of distilling the essential oils, see [Oils, Essential].
The essence of roses being obtained in a peculiar manner, I shall describe it here. Put into the body of a still 40 pounds of roses, and 60 quarts of water; distil off one half of the water. When a considerable quantity of such water of the first distillation is obtained, it must be used as water upon fresh rose leaves; a process of repetition to be carried to the fifth time. In the distillation of orange-flower, to obtain the essence of neroli, the same process is to be followed; but if orange-flower water merely be wanted, then it is obtained at one distillation, by reserving the first fifth part of water that comes over. What is called the essence of petit-grain, is obtained by distilling the leaves of the orange shrub. The essences of lavender, thyme, &c., present nothing peculiar in their mode of extraction.