“When it comes to you, it comes all of a sudden. You just sort of feel it.”
“I hope I feel it today,” Biff said, laughing.
The first day, the boys had swum out to where the long rollers formed, and had ridden them in, their bodies held stiff. Li wanted Biff to become accustomed to the waves. Then they had started with the surfboards.
The two boys walked across the beach to two long, brightly painted surfboards made of wiliwili wood. They carried the boards out into the ocean until they were waist deep. Then, sprawling on the boards, they paddled off shore several hundred yards.
“Okay, we’ll try it here. Head your board toward shore,” Li called.
Biff slowly turned his board until its pointed bow was aimed at the beach.
“Okay. I’m ready.”
“Let the first few waves pass until you get the feel and lift. Then, when one comes that feels good—that’s the only way I can explain it—start paddling like crazy.”
Biff followed instructions. He felt himself being lifted by the first wave, then a second. Now came a huge roller, raising both boys high above the trough left by the preceding roller. Biff started paddling furiously, still lying face down on the board. He felt the wave grab it. The board picked up speed, riding right at the crest of the roller. He had made it!
Li was right alongside. The boys were speeding shoreward at nearly thirty miles per hour.