The ladies' complete guide to crochet, fancy knitting, and needlework

by Ann S. Stephens

In the lace called Mechlin, made at Malines and Antwerp, there are some of those nice distinctions which render an account of the various productions of Brussels unavoidably rather complicated. Mechlin lace is made entirely on the pillow, and in one piece; it can therefore be applied only to articles of limited size. Lappets or trimmings are the forms under which we generally see it; and in these the exquisite delicacy of its texture can be thoroughly appreciated. The chief peculiarity consists in the filmy lightness of the ground, and in a thick plait-thread, as it is called, following the outline of the pattern, and giving the effect of embroidery.

The next class of Belgian lace, called generally Valenciennes, will be familiar to most of our readers; but they may be scarcely aware that the contributions of each of the six towns in which it is chiefly made offer some distinctive peculiarity, which would enable a person accustomed to compare them to decide with certainty upon their birthplace. The finest description is that which comes from Ypres. This town is acknowledged to excel in laces of the finest square ground and in the widest and most expensive kind; its productions have been known in some instances to produce as much as L.50 the yard.

Although Caen and Bayeux were the principal seats of the blonde manufacture in France, a variety was originated at Chantilly, which was brought to a higher perfection than any other, and was proportionably higher in price. It was extensively worn in England about thirty years ago, but is now almost traditionary here. The peculiarity of Chantilly blonde consisted of the rich close pattern, which contrasted with the filmy lightness of the ground. It was chiefly woven for veils, which then differed a good deal from our present idea of them: they were simply squares surrounded by one of these deep heavy borders of irregular outline, and also flowered over in the centre, and were thrown over the bonnet, completely enveloping the head and shoulders of the wearer. This description may be recognised by any one who has ‘assisted,’ as the French say, at the bringing to light of those treasures of by-gone days consigned by the changes in taste and fashion to the darkness and oblivion of a lumber-room. Among such articles would be most likely included a Chantilly veil of gigantic dimensions, or a collar of proportionate magnitude. But although the general rage for Chantilly has long past away, it is still used in small quantities, and is made of exquisite beauty, as if thereby to retain with the very fastidious the favor it has lost among the great body of lacewearers.

We should be charmed to proceed with this history of lace making, till the subject exhausts itself, but our present book deals with it only so far as it throws light upon and is connected with the branch of art particularly under consideration. Crochet work has now become a branch of lace making to a considerable extent, even in our country, where it has been exclusively held as an accomplishment. But however charmed we may be with the subject, a regard for space must prevent us running off into a dull essay instead of giving the ways and means by which this particular class under consideration is to be fabricated—as a bad example to new beginners, for if they indulge in such deviations among the stitches the workmanship will be a failure, we can assure them. But now we begin in sober earnest to explore the complicated mysteries of Crochet work as an art.

INTRODUCTION.

In commencing our instructions in Crochet Work in all its variations, we supply what certainly is a great want in the American Household, where some sort of fancy work is essential to the completion of those domestic circles which render an American home so cheerful. In giving those general directions regarding terms and stitches, which will, we trust, prove acceptable, we have endeavored to be as concise and clear as the nature of the subject will admit.

“The Ladies’ Complete Guide to Crochet and Needlework,” may therefore be regarded as a compendium both of choice and accurate receipts and of clear elementary instruction.

We will begin by giving those which are required for Crochet, and beg our fair readers to refer to them on any future occasion of doubt or difficulty.

Chain Stitch (abbreviated into ch.) is the foundation stitch in crochet. A loop of thread made on the hook, and through this the thread is drawn, forming the first chain stitch; draw the thread through this one, and a second is formed. Continue the process until you have done the required number.