The scene is a varied one. Here is a wretched beggar crouching in the dust in the hope of awakening pity in the heart of the passer-by; there a Moor mounted upon a mule. Then presently an overloaded donkey comes in sight, a half-clothed Arab trotting by his side and showering heavy blows upon him in the vain attempt to urge him on to greater speed; now a half-starved dog or vagrant cat skulks by, as if in terror at the sight of man.
Tangier has one principal square. It is a small rectangular place with one long street running through it. This street ascends from the sea landing through the entire length of the town. Numerous shops are scattered about the square, which are of so simple a character that those of the humblest village in Europe would appear quite grand in comparison.
At one side of the square is a fountain, where at any hour in the day may be found knots of Arabs or groups of negroes, who have come to get water. On the other side of the street, eight or ten women, closely veiled, remain seated on the ground from early dawn till close of day, silently offering for sale the loaves of bread arranged before them.
TANGIER.
The square is the business center of Tangier. Grouped about it are found the homes of the representatives of foreign lands. Their houses are very simple, yet, contrasted with the common dingy houses of the town, they appear quite like palaces.
The aspect of business life in this little square is like that of any village center, with its single grocery store, tobacco shop, and unpretentious café. The latter is merely a humble little room, upon the walls of which various printed notices of the current topics of the day are posted.
A billiard table is one of its features, and assembled round it, or lounging about the room, is usually a motley crowd. Rich Moors idle away the hours, Jewish traders discuss their business transactions, half-clothed vagabonds look on with listless expression, Arab porters await the arrival of the steamers, employees of the foreign representatives rest during the noon hour, while various strangers, some just landed, and numerous beggars, add variety to the scene, which is as interesting as it is unique.
The Moorish shops here, as well as those of Cairo in Egypt, differ much from those of the countries in Europe. Each is built like an alcove about a foot above the level of the sidewalk. In front is an opening at which the customer stands as if before a window. The merchant, with his goods spread out before him, sits cross-legged in his narrow shop, like a statue in a niche. We are led to wonder, as we watch him, if he may not be merely of wood or stone, so immovable is he; and we almost expect to find some machinery that may set him in motion.