Corsets that slip up are probably either too long waisted, too tight over the fulness of the hips, or there is not sufficient curve in the back and sides at the waist-line. High-backed corsets are apt to make the woman look round shouldered, while a low back gives smoother and more desirable lines.
The Shoe.—The style of the shoe is very closely related to the corset in the amount of harm it is capable of doing. Considering the fact that the feet form the base of support for the entire body, and that on their condition depends the woman’s ability to take a sufficient amount of exercise and maintain her good health, surprisingly little attention is given to their care.[7]
The compression of the foot into a rigid body, not unlike the shoemaker’s last, destroys the natural relation of the parts, prevents the growth, interferes with the circulation, compresses the nerves, weakens muscles and ligaments which should support the arch, and is the prolific source of corns, bunions, weak ankles, and “flat” foot.
But, in addition to the direct injuries to the feet, the excessive elevation of the heel displaces the center of gravity, and transfers the weight of the body for the most part from the heel to the line of union of the instep with the toes, a series of joints with shallow sockets not formed to bear the brunt of the body weight. In addition to which the equilibrium of the body can only be maintained by an increase of the natural curves of the bony framework, with the resulting increased curvature forward at the small of the back, is an increase in the prominence of the buttocks and abdomen. This tilting forward of the pelvis interferes with the circulation of the pelvic organs, and their congestion and inflammation follow.
By walking around in her bedroom slippers any one can easily convince herself of the greater grip that the foot has on the floor when so clad, and of the greater ease and sureness in walking; this is chiefly due to the greater breadth of the sole, and the fact that the slipper has no heel. The greater firmness of men on their feet on slippery pavements is doubtless due to the difference in the cut of the shoe and the lower and broader heel.
The front part of the sole of the shoe must be so designed that the great toe will retain its normal position and rest on the inner border of the sole. In many shoes the great toe is forced out of its natural position toward the middle of the sole, and the tip, instead of pointing straight forward, is thrust toward the line of the sole. This not only lessens the thrust of the great toe as it leaves the ground in walking, but also leads to a malformation of the foot and ingrowing toe-nails.
The soles of the shoe should project a reasonable distance beyond the uppers, to give firmer support to the foot and to protect the soft parts in walking.
The front part of the upper leather must be broad enough for the free movement of all the toes in walking and in springing; when it does not give room enough for the toes to spread outward and forward in walking, they are bent on themselves. This makes the descent of hills and all active exercise and games very painful. Tight upper leather is also productive of chilblains and corns.
The shoe should be slightly longer than the foot when the entire weight of the body is placed upon it, and sufficiently broad for the foot to spread in walking; but, at the same time, the shoe must fit snugly about the heel and instep, or else the foot will slip forward in walking, and all the evil effects of too short a shoe will result.
The heel of the shoe must be broad and low. High heels force the foot to keep perpetually and unnaturally on the stretch; if they are worn in early youth, they may bring about permanent deformity of the skeleton and of the foot. Moreover, the high heel interferes with the natural walk, in which the pressure of the foot on the ground passes from the heel to the toes. The high heel requires that the front of the foot should be set down first instead of the heel. The result is an awkward tripping gait and a short step, which is very fatiguing. This is one of the causes for woman’s frequent dislike for exercise in the open air, such as walking, mountaineering, games, etc., and so the general health is affected.