Plate II., Fig. N, illustrates another type of open-work which is practised by the peasantry of Russia. It is interesting and quite different in appearance from some of the other peasant work. One distinguishing feature is that two rows are worked in conjunction, and another is the number of rows and the manner in which they are worked. This form of open-work deserves to be better known in this country. The pattern is formed by means of blocks of stitches, which are not worked in the ordinary darning or weaving stitch but by the overcasting of laid threads; indeed, with the exception of the first and final rows—which are hemstitched—the entire work consists of the overcasting of threads; bars, strands or groups, all are worked from right to left. The Russian peasantry work most elaborate borders on handsome linen of an open texture; these borders vary in width from 2 inches to 18 inches, and are applied to all kinds of articles for household and personal use. This form of open-work is more durable than the type usually done in this country; indeed, the material is strengthened by the stitchery rather than weakened, as is frequently the case with the usual method of treating drawn-thread work.
To work a border similar to Plate II., Fig. N, begin by removing two threads; work a row of single hemstitch into the space, over four threads, dividing the material into clusters with six warp threads in each—the hemstitching is done from left to right in the usual way. To prepare for the next two rows, leave a narrow bar of five weft threads and draw out six threads—the number of threads to be removed will, of course, vary according to the quality of the material, but the horizontal intervening bars are always narrower than the open spaces. Begin at the right hand; make the number of upright stitches necessary to carry the thread to the left of the group, which is to be worked into a solid block; lay the thread across this group, and returning, bring the needle out between the first and second cluster of threads, on the right of the cluster; now put the needle over the laid thread and bring it out under the laid thread at the next group. Put the needle over the thread again and bring it out at the left of the entire group; in other words, overcast the laid thread from right to left of the group—always pass the needle behind a cluster of threads between each overcasting stitch; continue to lay the thread and overcast back until the space is filled, then work one straight stitch over the upper horizontal bar; overcast one vertical cluster; slip the carrying thread up behind; work another upright stitch; overcast the second vertical cluster; again slip the thread up through the back of the stitchery; then work the upright stitches and repeat the laying and overcasting to make the solid pattern again. Once the method is acquired, it will be a simple matter to arrange these solid masses in such a way as to form a pattern. It is better to prepare and cut the threads of each row just before working it; there is, in this way, less risk of making mistakes by cutting the wrong threads. Another reason for preparing the rows step by step is that the material is easier to hold before the removal of the weft threads than it would be after they have been withdrawn.
Linked Stitches.
Chain and Tambour Work (Fig. 1).—Chain stitch, which is said to have come to us from China, has been for a long time little used in this country. Tambour stitch—in high favour and greatly used by our grandmothers—was produced later by the machine in such quantities and in so mechanical and inartistic a manner that it fell into disfavour, and unfortunately chain stitch—which is practically the same, except that it is worked with the needle instead of with a crochet hook—fell with it. Nevertheless, it is a stitch which is most useful and charming in its even and somewhat monotonous regularity, especially where a great variety of colour is used and a broad effect is wanted. A particularly adaptable stitch, it lends itself, on account of its linked nature, to the following of curves and spirals, outlines and the filling of circular and oval forms. It can be worked singly—as a powdering—or in a zig-zag pattern—with two colours at once—which produces an interesting result (Plate I.), or with a twist. Worked openly with the needle inserted first to the left then to the right to give a broader line, it is known as ladder stitch, while twisted chain, worked closely, is known as rope stitch. Linked chain and cable chain (Fig. 8) are more elaborate forms of the same stitch. Much of the beautiful Persian quilting done on linens is worked in chain stitch on the wrong side, which gives the “quilting,” or back stitch, on the right side.
The Working of Tambour Stitch.—Tambour stitch, though of little use for small work, might still be employed very effectively as a quilting stitch, and for large pieces of work, such as table covers or hangings; it is worked on a frame, and one can quickly acquire facility with the hook and accuracy in the working of it.
Method:—The material is put in a frame; the thread is kept underneath, where the left hand guides it; a sharp-pointed hook is kept in the right hand and passed through the material from the surface; it catches the thread from the under side and bring it up in a loop; the hook is inserted again and the thread is again brought up in a loop through the preceding loop.
Fig. 1.
To Work Chain Stitch (Fig. 1).—To work chain stitch, bring the thread out at the beginning of the line; hold it down with the left thumb; place the needle into the hole, which the thread already occupies, and take up a small piece of the material—this will vary from one-sixteenth to one-eighth of an inch according to the thread and material; draw the thread through, and the first link of the chain is complete; insert the needle again at the spot where the thread comes out and proceed as before. A cord-like effect may be got by overcasting each link of the chain with another colour: the eye of the needle should be used, as the overcast stitch is taken over the links only.
Chain Stitch in Two Colours.—A variation to a border may be given by working alternate links of different colour.