Double Button-hole (Fig. 12b).—Double button-holing has two rows of button stitch (Fig. 12B). The first must have the stitches spaced so as to allow of the second row of stitches dovetailing into those of the first. This variety can be applied very successfully to braid or galoons, in which cases the stitches need not reach to the opposite side as in Fig. 12B.
Leaves in Button-hole Stitch.—A very good method of filling leaves is to work them in two rows of button-holing, back to back, the firm central line forming the mid-rib of the leaf and the rather broken outer line suggesting the serration of the edges. Small flowers, flower centres and berries are frequently worked in this way (Plate XIII.). The heading of the stitch forms the outline. An old-fashioned, but quaint variety of ground-filling to be seen on some of the earlier samples consisted of successive rows of these little eyelet stitches. The material was first pierced by a stiletto at regular intervals; each hole was then button-holed or overcast round. The insertion of the needle into a common centre formed an opening which gave a lighter effect to the background.
Fig. 13.
Decorative Back Stitch (Fig. 13).—This figure is simply back stitch. To be effective and to make room for the interlacing thread, it should be worked rather larger than usual, and with a thicker thread, from one-eighth to a quarter of an inch in length. A thread of a contrasting tone is then laced through, eye of the needle foremost, the loops of each stitch being regulated before passing on to the next. Back stitch was greatly in use in the seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries, for the adornment of all sorts of articles. Quilts, hangings, and personal clothing were ornamented in this way with bands and patterns. These were sometimes produced by chain stitch worked on the wrong side of the material, which, as an embroideress knows, forms a row of back stitching on the reverse side—the right side in this case.
Reversible Back Stitch.—Sometimes these patterns were worked in reversible back stitch, in order to make both sides of the stitching alike, for in those days needleworkers did not grudge either the time or the patience spent on their embroideries.
Reversible back stitch, so-called, is a running or darning stitch. All should be regular and equal in length, or the appearance of the work, when finished, will not resemble back stitch. The “back” stitch is formed by going over the line a second time with a running stitch, which fills up the spaces on both sides of the material and renders it reversible.
Fig. 14.
Honeycomb Filling (Fig. 14).—This pattern has an advantage over some of the more elaborate background stitches; it is easily and quickly worked, and most of the thread is on the surface. It is known to some needlewomen as honeycomb stitch, to others as Mexican stitch.