Fig. 22a. Fig. 22b.
French Knots (Figs. 22a, 22b).—French knots can be applied with artistic effect in many ways, not as an outline, but as an adjunct to some of the line stitches, such as chain stitch, couching, back stitch, etc. (Plate XIV.). They may be used to add touches of colour to a pattern, to modify or enrich it (Plate XIII.); to powder backgrounds, either single or in clusters, qualifying both texture and colour; to outline or fill in flower centres, to form stamens (Plate XI.); to fill in lattice patterns or any form that requires some contrast of stitch or colour.
Method:—To work a French knot, bring out the needle at the point where the knot is to be; place the thumb of the left hand over the thread (Fig. 22A); twist the needle once round this tightened thread; turn the point to the right—thumb still holding the thread—and insert it just behind the point where it came out, and draw the thread through to the back, or when some experience has been gained, the needle may be drawn through on the right side in position for the next knot.
The Chinese, who are adepts, frequently work entire pieces of embroidery in knots with such care and precision that they are almost mechanical in appearance. They have a method of knotting their thread first, then sewing each knot down. This method was also common in England about the seventeenth century. At that time ladies used to work up hanks of thread, and, by means of a small cushion and a netting needle, work a succession of knots on the entire length; these hanks were wound up into balls ready for applying to the work in hand.
It is better in making French knots to use a thick thread, or if a large knot is required, two or more threads in the needle are more satisfactory than twisting one several times round the needle. Plate V. shows knots applied to the edges of the galoon, which serve to fix it down, as well as to give a finish to the latchet darns.
Fig. 23.
Bullion Knots (Fig. 23).—Bullion knots are frequently used in white embroidery where variety of stitch is made use of in order to relieve the monotony. They consist of little tight coils of thread and can be used most successfully to form the centres of large flowers, either in a mass or in pattern. Squares or lozenge-shaped forms with a French knot in each space make rather interesting fillings.
Fig. 23 shows how bullion knots might be applied in lines radiating from the centre to form small flowers.
Flower Centre in Bullion Stitch.—Method of working:—Bring the thread up on the surface at the centre; insert the needle at the outer edge of the circle, and draw it out for half its length at the centre, beside the thread, which now take hold of with the right hand, and twist firmly, but not too tightly, round the needle six or eight times according to the size of knot required. Then place the thumb of the left hand on the coil and draw the thread carefully through till it is tight. It is always advisable to keep the thumb over the coil during the whole process if possible.