An embroidery book

by Anne Knox Arthur

The peasant costumes of many countries—particularly those for gala days—are made gorgeous by the addition of bands of brilliantly coloured braids, enriched in many cases by embroidery. Braids are used on uniforms, in an official sense, where they are considered as symbols of honour—the higher the grade, the more elaborate the decoration.

Care must be taken with the arrangement of these patterns—all curves must be exact, interlacing designs must be correct, the series of bands always passing alternately the one under the other.

The possibilities for the treatment of braids and bands, for the decoration and enrichment of them, open up an interesting field to the young designer. By comparing some of the plates it will be seen that much has been done in a simple way by the use of these braids and tapes.

Many of the old illuminated manuscripts show wonderful interlacing designs, many of which were copied or adapted by embroiderers of the period.

An old Venetian pattern book, published in 1562, gives beautiful examples of the letters of the alphabet worked first with an outline in narrow braid, an elaborate twisted design being then woven in and out of the double lines with a narrow braid, with the help of a tapestry needle; the delicate points and finishings of the letters being finished in satin stitch.

Perhaps the best way to go about a design in which bands of braid are to form the foundation of the design would be to take one form and try how it might be adapted to suit the conditions of space and material. A border for a circular form is simpler in construction than one for a square—the corners of the latter always requiring special attention—but after a few preliminary trials it will be readily seen what the possibilities are.

Interlacing Knots.—Interlacings of knots and bands are always interesting, and the working out of these designs should be a profitable exercise for a beginner. There is such variety in their construction, such simple or intricate patterns to be made out of these continuous and interlacing lines, that all craft workers have found in them a ready means of ornamentation. Knot designs of a simple kind may be applied in the form of braids and cords to many useful articles of domestic use; the most direct way to work out some elementary designs would be to take a length of soft cord and some pins, and using the back of a cushion as a foundation, or a covered table, pin out a geometrical design—a square would be suitable for the first attempt—and develop it. The first square might have the braids twisted into small loops at the corners, the second might have the sides indented or looped, and so on. Make a series of these with every possible variation; then all could be drawn in a note-book, in squared paper—for the sake of ease and accuracy. The ends of the cords or braids should be pinned together in order to form a continuous band.

The next step would be to interweave a second length of cord into those already formed. Care is necessary to interlace the bands, so that each passes over and under the other in regular rotation. This second band might take the form of another square, set the reverse way, or a circular form might be introduced. When all possibilities have been worked out, they also should be noted. By degrees more complicated and intricate knots may be attempted.

Sometimes an elaborate form may be worked out on paper to begin with, then interlaced and pinned out in cord. The embroideress will find a note-book and a square of canvas very useful for reference, also as aids to memory: in the former, she can make notes of designs and suitable detail, of colour schemes taken from pictures, materials and embroideries, suggestions for finishing and fastenings of garments, little notes and quotations suitable for embroidery—all sorts of interesting matter which the eye is quick to see but which the memory cannot always recall at the right moment. In the square of canvas or coarse linen, divided into sections, might be worked some of the more interesting or unusual stitches, or groups of stitches; or pleasing combinations of stitches and colour might be preserved as the opportunity occurred. These might serve to suggest or recall methods and varieties suitable to some work in hand.

Faggoting.—Faggoting is a stitch which is used to connect two edges, particularly such edges as require a dainty finish, or to fill in an open space, or to serve as a foundation for some interlacing stitch. It is much used for joining ribbons, braids, or thin materials, such as ninon, chiffon, or crêpe.