Veining (Fig. 26).—Fig. 26 shows a well-known joining stitch, which looks well if done in a twisted silk, wool, or linen. It makes a pretty insertion, and adds much to the appearance of a seam. It is a narrow line stitch, therefore the two edges of the material should not be too widely spaced. Prepare the edges in the same manner as for faggoting and tack them on to a stiff foundation.
Method:—Fasten the thread to the edge of the material; carry the needle across to the opposite edge; insert it under and bring it through the material; twist the thread twice round the needle and insert it on the opposite side from underneath, as shown in the diagram; oversew a few stitches along the edge to carry the thread into position for the next stitch. This insertion is useful for joining braids, for dress fitments and other purposes; it is much in vogue for the joining of thin materials, such as chiffon and ninon or crêpe; these require to have a fold laid and pressed before being tacked on to the paper.
A very pretty addition to a border, whether for a piece of ornamental work, for the edging of a collar, the joining up of a bag, or for the foot of a jumper, is made by inserting between the material a line of gold tinsel or velvet ribbon, braid, or even material of a contrasting colour. This must be tacked on firmly to a foundation of stiff calico or brown paper, then attached by an insertion to the edges of the material.
Fig. 27.
This stitch, whether used as an insertion or as a filling, must also in this case be carefully arranged and regularly worked, otherwise the appearance of the work is spoiled. The threads should in all cases be tightened sufficiently to give the necessary firm twist to the line. To obtain the technique of many of these insertion stitches it is only needful to practise them for a few minutes on a piece of material as a preliminary to the actual working of them. This enables the worker to see what size of thread to use, and it gives her the opportunity of trying and comparing various colours without the irksome task of unpicking.
Fig. 27 is worked much the same as Russian stitch (Fig. 25), except that it is worked closer and the thread picked up by the point of the needle before it is inserted on the opposite side—this twisted faggot stitch is really a combination of the veining and faggot insertion and is used for the same purposes.
PLATE IX.
THREE COLLARS. ([See page 162.])