Method:—Arrange the thread in groups of two double strands, as in Fig. 37 a; take the two outside strands, and passing the left one under the middle strands, and the right-hand one over them—these middle strands meanwhile being held taut between the second and third fingers—bring the left-hand strand out, as Fig. 37, and the right-hand strand under so that their positions are reversed. Complete the knot by crossing the reverse way again and tighten to finish. Quite a pretty fringe can be made by working a row of four of these flat knots in succession over four strands, one knot below the other; the second row has the knots made on four strands—two strands taken from each of the groups immediately above—this brings the knots of the second row alternating with those of the upper row, as in Fig. 36.
Twisting and Crossing.—Fig. 39 gives a little hand-made braid, very useful for many purposes, for small headings, or for finishings, edges, or seams. It is a simple plait made with four strands of any firm thread or narrow braid—the latter is the more suitable for embroidery. Lace plaits similar to this require bobbins and a pillow, as well as a suitable lace or linen thread; but the gimps for embroidery can be made quite nicely by fixing the knots to some firm foundation and winding the cord, string, or braid on to a piece of cardboard. The plait is done by means of twisting and crossing. These terms are used in the making of pillow lace. “Twisting” always means passing the right-hand strand over the left (Fig. 38 A), and “crossing” means the passing of the inner left-hand strand over the inner right-hand strand (Fig. 38 B).
Fig. 39. Fig. 39a.
Hand-made Gimp.—Fig. 39 shows the braid in process. Each pair of threads is twisted once, then the inner threads are crossed; this is repeated to the end, care being taken to keep all threads as equal as possible. Fig. 39A is the same braid with picot edgings. These picots may be placed at every second loop instead of every fourth as in the figure. They are made with the help of pins fixed into the foundation; the outside thread is passed round the pin before twisting with the next strand.
Fig. 40.
To make a Lace Pillow-Cushion.—Fig. 40 is a still more elaborate braid, consisting of five double strands. It could be more easily worked on a cushion—a large pin-cushion tilted against a table would do, or the worker could make a pillow-cushion for herself, such as some lace-makers use, in the following way: Cut a piece of firm cotton or linen about 20 or 22 inches wide and 22 to 24 inches long; join up the length by the machine; hem the two ends and run a drawing string through them to close the ends. Cut two circles of cardboard 4 or 5 inches in diameter; draw up one end of the pillow and place a circle of cardboard in against the closed end; fill the cushion with bran or cork—such as is used for packing grapes—horsehair, or sawdust; stuff tightly; then place the other circle of cardboard on top and tighten up the second end by means of a strong cord run through the edges. This little cushion can be placed into a wooden box or basket, which is better to be weighted a little to keep it steady. Some pillows are made like a cylinder and fitted into a box, which is higher at the back than at the front; others are made with an axis which is fitted into grooves cut in the side of the box; this enables the worker to turn the pillow and also allows the lace as it is worked off to fall behind into the box.
Braid.—To work Fig. 40, fix on to the cushion in a straight line five lengths of braid, knotted as in Fig. 38.
Method:—Twist the first and second pair once; cross; twist the second and third pair once; cross; twist the third and fourth pair once; cross; twist the fourth and fifth pair once; cross; place a pin at the right-hand edge; twist the fourth pair once; twist the fifth pair once; cross; twist the third and fourth pair once; cross; twist the second and third pair once; cross; twist the first and second pair once; cross; place a pin at the left-hand edge; twist the first pair twice; twist the second pair once; cross, and repeat from: twist the second and third pair once; cross, and so on for length required. This braid when worked with bobbins and a stout linen thread will be excellent for teaching the method of making grounds for some of the simpler pillow laces.