Fig. 51.
Fig. 51 is made up of two pieces of braid. The crosses show where the ends disappear under the curves. This knot could be used similarly to Figs. 45 and 49.
Knots are not generally used in embroidery for the starting or finishing of threads, but sometimes a new thread has to be joined directly on to the old one, in which case a firm, non-slipping knot is necessary. Figs. 46, 47, 48 are all useful for joining threads.
Nightdress Case in Blue and White.—Plate XIV. shows a charming and useful nightdress case in white linen, embroidered in white and blue flax. The simple interlacing design is laid on in white French tape, which develops into leaves at the centre and corners, and gives scope for a pleasant change in stitchery. The braid is fixed in place on the outer edge by a button-hole stitch worked in flax thread over three strands of blue. The material is cut and turned in and button-holed—this gives a little raised edge and accentuates the outer line; the inner edge is marked out by a line of back stitching (Fig. 13), and French knots worked in blue (Fig. 22). The spaces between the interlacing braids are worked in a filet or net pattern—which is simply worked but rather tedious on account of the necessary preparation.
Method:—Remove four vertical threads and leave four of the linen; repeat this within the space; then remove four horizontal threads and leave four; repeat. These little groups of threads are kept closely together by means of overcasting stitches—which should be done with a very fine thread—worked in rows over the warp threads, then over the weft. The linen in the centre of the leaf forms at the centre and corners should be cut, turned under the braid and button-holed, as described in Plate XIV. The outer ones are filled in with button-holed bars, which may be worked as described in Fig. 24, or they may be inserted after the button-hole edge is finished, by laying two or three strands, button-holing them, and overcasting three or four stitches along the edge to carry the needle into position for the next bar. The opening in the centre is worked in pyramids and bars, alternately (see description of [Plate XIV.]). It will be seen that the two outer leaves of the centre group are worked in a weaving stitch which gives the appearance of mid-rib and veins.
Method:—After the inner edge is button-holed, carry six threads to and fro from point to base to form the foundation; then weave by passing the thread over three and under three strands until the point for the first vein is reached. Press the threads closely together with the needle to make the line solid; then carry the working thread across to the edge to and fro and back to the edge; weave into and out of these three strands until the mid-rib is reached again; weave a couple of threads into the centre rib, then form the vein on the opposite side in the same way, and proceed in this way until the base is reached. The stitch must be very evenly worked and well pressed up by the needle continuously to get the right effect. The inner leaves are worked with a row of open button-holing, after which button-holed loops (Fig. 59) and pyramids are arranged to fill up the space. The braid-like appearance of the inner border is obtained by working a row of herring-bone stitch to form a foundation; a long flax thread is then interlaced as shown in Fig. 25. See also border to [Plate XIV]. This interlacing thread is worked in, row after row, until the desired thickness has been got. In Plate XI. the foundation stitch is in blue and the interlacing in white flax thread—the little blue points of the herring-bone stitch peeping out on either side give a pretty effect. Two rows of fine chain stitch (Fig. 1) finish the dainty border.
PLATE XIII.
A BAG IN CANVAS AND WOOL. ([See page 153.])
The outer edges following the curves of the braid are worked in open button-holed loops (Fig. 59) which in Plate XI. are done with the needle; but this edging may be done more simply, if desired, with a crochet hook, by forming a row of chain loops, then covering them with double crochet stitch (see [p. 157] for description).