Stretching.—Embroidery sometimes gets rather puckered while working. It can be much improved, not by ironing, which is apt to flatten too much, but by stretching. Simple needle-weaving with flat stitchery may be laid on to two or three folds of blanket and pressed without harm. For most other kinds of work it is better to lay it face downwards on a board which has already been covered with a napkin or a fine towel; fix it at regular intervals with drawing-pins, and while doing so stretch the material into its right shape, if possible; be careful not to stretch it out of shape, which would be worse than ever; then lay a damp cloth over the work, leave it over-night to dry, and the puckering should have disappeared by the time it is dry.
There is really no need to pucker work if it is held properly. Some stitches are more inclined to tighten than others, but it is generally when working across the material that they tighten it. The work should always be held in a convex position over the fingers, and when working in wools—which are sometimes very elastic—the needle-worker should see that the threads lie easily over the surface. If the background appears rounded at the worked part on the under-side, the wools are too tightly strained. When mistakes are made it is always wiser to cut them out than to unpick—it does not harm the material in the same way, and it is not extravagant, as threads are generally too much roughened for use after unpicking.
Knots, as a rule, should be avoided; threads should always be cut, not broken off. The best way to commence a new thread is to run a few stitches on the right side on a part which will be covered afterwards by embroidery. This keeps the wrong side tidier, and the threads more secure. A long thread does not make for good work, as a rule; it gets roughened before it is finished and takes longer to pull through.
Braids and thick threads can be taken through to the wrong side by making a hole with a stiletto, or by using a needle and thread. Bring the needle through the hole and pass it round the braid, then pass it back through the same hole and pull the braid through the hole with it; in the case of a coarse thread, the needle will make a large enough hole. In working with flax, note the direction of the fibre by drawing it through the fingers. The needle should be threaded at the smooth end, so that when the thread is drawn through the material it is not roughened. In working with double wool, cotton, or silk, pass two separate threads through the eye—both threads are then running the same way. Always keep the finished part of the embroidery covered up while working, if possible; it keeps it fresher and the threads do not get rubbed. Hot hands discolour the threads, roughened fingers ruffle them. Washing in warm water with the free use of pumice stone will help in both cases.
Washing Woollen Embroideries.—The soap should be of a good quality and free from alkali, which injures the colours. Flake the soap and dissolve it in boiling water; whip it into a lather; add cold water until it is of a comfortable heat for the hands, and put the embroidery in. Squeeze and work it gently—but on no account rub it—until it is clean, then rinse in warm water, and again in cooler water; squeeze the water out; hang up immediately—in the open air, if possible; dry quickly and pin out on a board, and iron damp on the wrong side on a folded blanket. White work may be washed in a lather of Lux—any soap which does not contain alkali may be used. Proceed as for coloured work, squeezing the dirt out, not rubbing; rinse and stretch over a towel or put in the open air till almost dry. It is then laid face downwards on several folds of blanket, a damp cloth placed over it, and a hot iron passed backwards and forwards until it is quite dry—the cloth prevents the iron from soiling the material on the back and equalises the moisture. Velvet should be held while being pressed, or the iron should be fixed face up and the velvet passed over it. All wools should be shrunk before being worked on to articles such as sash curtains and coverlets, which require washing. Steep them in a bath of hot water for some hours; hang them up—in the hank—to drip; when dry, they will be as soft as when new.
Braids should be subjected to the same treatment—they may probably lose a very little colour if they are not reliable of their kind.
Practical Hints about Materials.—There is sometimes difficulty in obtaining threads and materials of a coarse make and weave suitable for carrying out articles similar to those illustrated throughout the book. A short list of the names of firms where such may be bought is given below for the benefit of readers.
Canvases and crashes particularly suited to needle-weaving may be obtained from Messrs. Brown and Beveridge, Ltd., 194, Bath Street, Glasgow. These are of good quality, in great variety and excellent colouring.
Titian canvas, one of the heaviest makes, is very suitable for runners, table covers and large objects generally; it may be had in three widths, 27 inches, 50 inches and 72 inches, in mole, blue and soft brown. Art canvas and antique canvas, both of a regular weave in quiet colours, are lighter in make.
In vandyke canvases the warp and weft threads, which are of different colours, blend very harmoniously. Art linens and bloom linens are charming; the latter are woven in two colours. Celtic canvas in cream, fawn, red, green, and a beautiful rich blue, are guaranteed fast dyed.