As already noted, the Pacific Coast south of Ecuador is a practically rainless desert for a distance of 1600 miles along the shore of Peru and Chile, about as far as Coquimbo. Here begins the agricultural centre of Chile, including the rich longitudinal valley (with soil 330 feet deep), in which the capital, Santiago, is situated; the valley extends from the Aconcagua River to the Gulf of Ancud, 620 miles. Many populous towns and ports are in this section, among them Valparaiso. The forest country farther south is but sparsely settled.
Mountains. The Cordillera of the Andes, which extends throughout the entire length of the country, and is continued at the north by the Cordillera of Peru, is recognized from its geological formation as belonging to a recent epoch. It contains many volcanoes, mostly extinct or inactive except in the south. Aconcagua, of volcanic origin, the highest peak of the Andes and of all America so far as is yet known, is a little north of the centre. Its summit is just over the border in Argentina, as the watershed forming the boundary here runs west of the line of greatest altitude. The height of Aconcagua is variously stated, but 22,817 feet has perhaps the best authority. Other lofty peaks are near, Mercedario and Tupungato, each over 22,000 feet. There are 24 passes across the range at a height of 10,000 feet more or less. Farther south the mountains diminish rapidly in height with few summits above 10,000 feet. The range ends in Tierra del Fuego with Mt. Sarmiento, 7000 feet.
A cordillera of the coast, geologically older, is much lower, disappearing altogether at the north. In general quite steep towards the sea, it slopes gradually towards the central valley or plateau. This range continues at the south in islands, which in great numbers fringe the coast. Here the shore is much indented with straits and bays, resembling the fjords of Norway. Nearly all of the narrowing point of the continent, the entire Strait of Magellan, and most of Tierra del Fuego belong to Chile.
Rivers
The rivers of the country are numerous except in the north, where but two reach the ocean. Farther south to 35° they are torrential in character, but important both for irrigation and as a potential source of hydro-electric power; their descent from so great a height indicating large future possibilities. Beyond 35° a number of streams are navigable for some distance for boats of light draught, 500 miles in all, the Bio-Bio for 100 miles, the Maule for 75. South of these rivers are many picturesque and important lakes close to the Cordillera where they serve as great reservoirs for the excessive precipitation of rain and snow on the west side of the mountains. The largest are Lakes Rauco and Llanquihue, with estimated areas respectively of 200 and 250 square miles. Lake Todos los Santos, 40 square miles, described as of marvelous beauty, is northeast of Puerto Montt among the Andean foothills, at a height of 500 feet.
The seaboard at the north, with few indentations, has in consequence poor harbors, where landing in small boats may occasionally be dangerous or impossible. In the far south are sheltered harbors, but few cities requiring them.
Climate
The climate of the country naturally is extremely varied. In the northern section the immediate coast like that of Peru is preserved from intense heat by the Antarctic current. A little way back on the arid plateau the temperature is excessive by day but cool at night. Going south from the arid section the rainfall gradually increases until in the far south there is too much. The central regions have a fair supply with an excellent climate, mean annual temperatures of 50°-60°. Farther south with rain 150-170 days in the year, in some places 80-100 inches, the climate is less agreeable. The winds are generally west, either a little north or south. While the mean temperatures are fairly low, the extremes are much less than at the same latitudes in most parts of North America or on the East Coast of Argentina. Even at the farthest south, at Punta Arenas, the most southern city of the globe, the weather is never so cold as often in the usual winters of New York or Boston. Until recently suitable sanitation has been lacking in many cities and the death rate has been high. Now the authorities are alive to these matters and with the installation of proper sewerage, already accomplished in Santiago and in progress in other cities, the death rate is lower. In no cities from Guayaquil south need any tourist be apprehensive of danger.