Cautín, extending all the way across the country, touches three Provinces on the north, Arauco, Malleco, and Bio-Bio. Here are plains, mountains, and valleys, with much rainfall and luxuriant vegetation of forest, grass, and agriculture. Excellent timber and tannin extracts, fruit and cattle, produce wealth, and coal and gold await exploitation.

Valdivia, south of Cautín, also extends across the country. Here are lower mountains, many passes into Argentina, extensive forests, several lakes, much rain; but a healthful climate, luxuriant vegetation, with profitable agriculture, forest products, and cattle breeding.

Llanquihue follows, extending south to the Gulf of Ancud and beyond. The present southern terminus of the Longitudinal Railway is the capital, Puerto Montt, at the head of the Gulf. This is largely a forest region, though in the valley of the lakes are fertile lands suited to grazing and agriculture, both of which industries are increasingly followed. The climate is rather cool but equable.

Chiloé, the last of the Provinces, consists of the large island of that name covering about 560 square miles, other islands much smaller, and a long archipelago called Chonos extending to the peninsula of Taitao. The island, Chiloé, is largely covered with forests which, strange to say, have a somewhat tropical character, with fine timber, dense undergrowth, and trailing vines; for the climate, with excessive rainfall, is extremely mild for the latitude, which corresponds to that of Massachusetts. Cereals, potatoes, and fruit are grown, and many pigs are raised; though forestry, and fishing are of greater importance.

The Territory of Magallanes extends from the 47th parallel south including the mainland and islands, with mountains, rivers, forest, and plains. On the coast the climate is not severe; in the interior it is more rigorous. Cattle and sheep raising are the most profitable industries; whaling and forestry are important.

CHAPTER XXXI
CHILE: PORTS AND TRANSPORTATION

Ports

Although Chile cannot boast of many excellent harbors, with her extended coast line her ports are naturally numerous; 59 is the official number, of which 15 are primary ports with custom houses, while the rest are dependent, save Punta Arenas, which is proudly apart as a free port, the only one in this part of the world. The primary ports are not necessarily those with the best harbors, but were made such on account of the demands of commerce.

The service along the coast is similar to that of Peru except that the boats of the Peruvian Steamship Line do not go beyond their own shores, while there is additional service by Chilian steamers. Before the War 40 per cent of the engaged shipping was British. Service to and from Europe, formerly by way of the Straits, long ended at Valparaiso, later extending to Callao, and for one or two sailings to Panamá. The exigencies of war interfered with the execution of plans which are now being carried out or modified. European express service below Panamá is likely to be confined to the ports of Callao, Mollendo, Arica, Iquique, Antofagasta, Valparaiso, and Punta Arenas, with a possible call for coal at Coronel. Other express service may include Coquimbo and Talcahuano. Aside from the leading coastal lines a few companies operate smaller ships locally; on the sea, and 843 miles on the several navigable rivers at the south. There is also service among the southern islands and to Juan Fernandez, 400 miles to the west.

Valparaiso, as the most important Pacific port south of Panama, deserves especial attention. This rapidly growing city, population about 200,000, to one coming from the north seems quite European, with an atmosphere more crisp and businesslike than that of courtly Lima or picturesque La Paz. The semicircular bay is called a good harbor except when the north winds blow, as they are liable to do in winter. Some years ago a British steamer lying at anchor, in an unusually strong blow was sunk with all on board. A breakwater expected to avert such danger, has for some time been in construction; but the depth of water off shore has made the work difficult. Freight was formerly discharged into lighters and people into rowboats, the steamers anchoring at some distance from shore. Now, however, a fiscal mole 100 feet long, one half with a depth of water of 43 feet, the rest of 36 feet, provides all facilities. Valparaiso has fair hotels, providing insufficient accommodation for the rapidly increasing travel and business. In many respects the city is quite up to date, but unhappily here and in Santiago Americans in winter suffer more with the cold when sitting indoors than in La Paz and Lima, though for walking outside it is comfortable enough with the temperature near freezing. As a rule dwelling houses have no heating apparatus, no stoves, but in some hotel dining rooms electric heaters are employed, and oil stoves may be provided for Americans in their rooms. While Chile has coal mines, their production is insufficient for the use of shipping and of their varied industries, and the people are not accustomed to use either the native or the imported article for heating purposes.