Highlands. The physical features of the country are simple, the Paraguay River dividing it into sections: the Gran Chaco, to some extent unexplored in detail, and the Oriental. The latter, Paraguay proper, is traversed from north to south by a broad irregular belt of highlands, nowhere much above 2200 feet. The angle of the ridges is sharper on the west, the country undulating in gradual slopes from the foot. On the east, spurs run out enclosing deep valleys, and the country has more of an upland character. The streams flowing west to the Paraguay are smoother and to some extent navigable, while those flowing east and southeast to the Alto Paraná are interrupted by rapids and falls.

Plains. In the southwest section between the Paraguay and the Paraná there is considerable marshy country, part draining into the Ypoa lagoon; other marshy lowlands occur along the Paraguay River. All these could be drained at moderate expense, thus providing much rich and accessible land. The western section, containing most of the inhabitants, has an average altitude of about 600 feet. In the more settled parts of the west and south are extensive grassy and open lands, and hills covered with forests, while clumps of trees are frequent in the lowlands. The soil of the western part is rather dry and sandy except near the rivers and marshes. It is extremely rich, of a reddish color due to impregnated iron. Above is a thick layer of humus, formed by centuries of decaying vegetation. In places the soil is clayey, or has a substratum of clay beneath. This is true of most of the forest region, and of the swampy section. Of Paraguay proper the western part is 25 per cent forest, the middle 66, the eastern 95 per cent.

The Gran Chaco, though called a plain, and flat near the rivers, is somewhat hilly. Rarely, a freshet on the Paraguay or the Pilcomayo transforms the neighboring country into great lakes, these sometimes extending 20 or 30 miles back from the river. Along the river banks is usually a narrow strip of forest, from which the soil and trees occasionally crumble into the stream, especially along the Pilcomayo, thus impeding navigation on that river. Farther back are open plains dotted with groups of palms, and some stretches of forest. The average altitude is 426 feet. Little is known of the country north of 22°.

Rivers. The country is greatly favored with rivers. The Paraguay, 1800 miles long, rises in Matto Grosso, Brazil, near the source of the Tapajós, a branch of the Amazon. From the east the Paraguay receives several important streams. Below the Apá, the northern boundary, two tributaries, the Aquidabán and the Ipané, are nearly 200 miles long. More important is the navigable Jejui (all these north of Asunción); still more the Tebicuary, entering the Paraguay far south of Asunción by two mouths, one over one-half, the other over one-third of a mile in width. The Alto Paraná is different, a more rocky and a shallower stream than the Paraguay. From that country it has many affluents, the Monday over 100 miles long with great cataracts in the lower part but navigable above. The Paraná River, 2000 miles long to the mouth of the Uruguay, rises in Goyaz, 665 miles above the Sete Quedas. It is 100 miles more to the Iguassú, then 492 to Corrientes, and 676 beyond to the beginning of the La Plata.

The rivers of the Chaco are more sluggish. Even the Pilcomayo is untraced in its middle course where vast swamps impede passage by land or water. The river is navigable in its lower reaches for a considerable distance, and the upper part is well known. The River Confuso is a smaller stream of similar character. Paraguay has few lakes save those swampy in character, but one, Lake Ipacaraí, east of Asunción, is a popular beauty spot, with pleasure and health resorts. Lake Ypoa is larger and both are navigable by boats of slight draft.

Climate

The climate of the country is called ideal, that of course depending on one’s taste. In general it is subtropical with two seasons, the summer temperature averaging 81°, the winter 71° or less. The rainfall is fairly distributed, the most in the hot months, December to February. Sudden changes of weather occur; from hot, humid north winds, or cooling south winds from the Argentine plains. In places the winter temperature may fall to 33°-42°, even with frost, but not near the Paraná River where there are fogs. In summer the maximum temperature at Asunción occasionally reaches 100° or more, and there are 60 inches of rain; more farther east, but less in the Chaco.

CHAPTER XL
PARAGUAY: THE CAPITAL AND OTHER CITIES

The Capital

Asunción, the population of which is variously given as 80, 90, 100, 120, and 125 thousand, is a quiet town on the Paraguay at a point where the bank rises to a considerable height, affording good drainage, and from the palace a pleasing view. An English writer calls the city the nicest, cleanest town above Buenos Aires. Although 1000 miles from the ocean, it has an altitude of but 203 feet above sea level. The classical building of the Custom House stands by the river side. The palace above, built by the Dictator, Francisco Lopez, as a residence, is used for the offices of the President and his Cabinet. Other important buildings are a House of Congress, a Cathedral, a Museum of Fine Arts containing a Murillo, and a National Library with many priceless documents.