In the montaña there is variation due to altitude, as in the sierra, as this region includes the forested district from an altitude of nearly 10,000 feet down to 1000 or less in the basin of the large Amazon tributaries. From 3000 to 7000 feet the climate is delightful to those who do not enjoy greater contrasts. Huánuco, altitude 6270 feet, has an annual temperature of 74°, other places a lower temperature, and far down, as at Iquitos, a higher. Most of the region is healthful, as is also the sierra, for persons of sound constitution under suitable living conditions and employing intelligent care. In some parts of the lowlands malaria is occasional or permanent, in other parts it is unknown.
CHAPTER XXI
PERU: CAPITAL, DEPARTMENTS, AND CHIEF CITIES
The Capital
Lima, the capital of Peru, on the banks of the Rimac eight miles from the port, Callao, is a city of picturesque charm. Its population, with its suburbs 200,000, is no indication of its commercial importance or of its elegance as a social centre. One of the three cities of the world where the best Spanish is spoken, some impartial critics say that in this respect it is unrivalled in the New World. Social amenities, everywhere important, are here peculiarly requisite for agreeable and successful business relations. Parisian elegance is seen on the narrow streets, and in one story dwellings as well as in larger mansions. The great cathedral is called the finest in South America.
The city takes pride in its numerous churches, its plazas, the excellent shops on the narrow streets, its University, founded in 1551, its museum, its new theatres, perhaps even in its bull-ring, the second largest in the world. As in the other West Coast cities, the hotels are inadequate (a new one is contracted for), but the old Maury long had the reputation of being the best on the Coast, and the excellence of its meals once rejoiced the heart even of a New York club man and his East Indian valet. Of course the city has modern conveniences, sky-scrapers happily excepted.
Individual Departments
The Coastal Divisions follow beginning at the north.
Tumbes, the Province farthest north, is distinguished from the rest of the coast by the fact that, bordering on Ecuador and the edge of the Gulf of Guayaquil, it partakes of the nature of that region, its north shore being covered with vegetation. (The adjoining Department of Piura, because of its proximity to the Ecuador forests and moisture, receives a rare torrential shower.) Rivers crossing Tumbes permit of irrigation where needed. The agricultural products are sugar, tobacco, coffee, and cacao. The oil wells are of great importance. Coal and other minerals are found.
Tumbes, the capital, on the Tumbes River, is connected by a narrow gauge railway with its port, Pizarro, seven miles distant, where steamers on their way to Guayaquil call every week or two.
Piura, the first Department south of Tumbes, is mainly desert, with some fertile irrigated valleys. The culture of a native cotton resembling wool is a leading industry. Other exports are Panamá hats and hides. Near the coast are important oil wells. Paita, with one of the best harbors on the coast, is the first port of call for some of the express steamers from Panamá.