Industrial and commercial South America

by Annie S. Peck

From the physical character of Peru, it is evident that inland communication and traffic is of extraordinary difficulty. The countries previously mentioned and most of those to follow have rivers by which access to the interior may be gained. In Colombia the Pacific coast barrier is not half so high, and another way is open from the Caribbean. Venezuela presents several doorways, Ecuador also; but in Peru, entrance by navigable rivers would be to journey over 2000 miles from Pará in Brazil at the mouth of the Amazon, then arriving only at the back door, remote indeed from the busy civilized life at the front. Some few do come in and go out that way, but not many.

Peru’s front is happily 1200-1300 miles long, but then a wall! and in places not one only; back of that another and another; between each two a deep, deep hollow; climbs, up and down, up and down, to gain the fertile montaña; or, in the central section, where it might seem easy going after having surmounted the high wall to the lofty plateau, there are hills if not dales, with few level spots. Do not imagine that a table-land is like a table! The country is rolling where not mountainous; nor is that all. The various rivers that wind about flowing now south now north, southeast and northwest, with branches from any direction, these are not simple little rivers, a few or many feet deep, which require merely an ordinary bridge; but whether deep or shallow they are liable to be and generally are at the bottom of a cañon 300 or 3000 feet deep, the top of which may be a mile or two across. For a railway to descend to such depths and climb up the other side, not once but the many times needful for a road traversing the length of Peru is for a sparsely inhabited country, governmentally poor, quite impossible. Hence the slowness of Peru’s development despite its wonderful riches.

When some years ago the Pan American Railway from New York to Buenos Aires was projected, investigation was made of practicable routes by the United States Government. The way in Ecuador is plain and in Colombia there is little choice; but in Peru the question of highland, low coast, or far interior was to be solved. The coast seemed less desirable as along here one could go by water. Moreover, the Maritime Cordillera for a long distance is so near the sea with so many spurs coming down to the coast, or as in Southern Peru a bluff several hundred or thousand feet high with its feet in the sea is so cut every little way by one of those 58 streams in a very deep cañon, that it was not more inviting than the plateau region above, where the road would be much more serviceable. Plateau was the decision; but for the Great War, money might soon be forthcoming; as it is, long delay is probable before the road is completed. As for inland transportation therefore, it may be said that it is carried on mainly by sea, which is no joke but stern reality; accordingly coast service is well provided.

Coast Service

British, Chilian, Peruvian, formerly German, and now American steamers sail along the coast, some express from Panamá, calling at Callao and Mollendo only; others, express also, call at the other primary ports, Paita, Etén, Pacasmayo, Salaverry, Pisco, and Ilo; still others, caletero, call at the 20 minor ports also. From many of these ports, as we have seen, railways extend some distance into the interior, generally as far as they can go without taking a stiff grade. Beyond the termini and in some cases directly from the ports, freight is carried by mules, burros, or llamas, though in but few places do the latter come down to the sea, their use being confined chiefly to the region of the sierra. In the old Inca days the fleet footed Indians sped over the narrow trails, often carrying heavy burdens. Horses were introduced by the Spaniards; riding is universal, as almost everywhere it is the only means of travel, from the coast to the mountain region and within that section; roads aside from bridle trails are almost non existent. Even in the thickly settled and rich Huailas Valley there was not a wheeled vehicle in 1908; there is no way by which they could be carried in except in pieces. The iron horse, however, within the last half century has begun to make its way.

Chief Port

Callao. Although Peru has other primary ports which should be visited by commercial men, Callao and Lima are the chief centre of commerce for the greater part of the country. Both cities are of course provided with good electric car service, lights, and telephones; they are connected by an electric and a steam railway, the latter, a part of the Central Railway of Peru, which climbs to the interior heights. The double track electric road on a broad boulevard, the most popular connection between the two cities, makes the ride in 28 minutes. The site of the port, Callao, population 35,000, was chosen with discretion, as except for Chimbote it has the best harbor below Panamá. It ranks in traffic as the fourth American port on the entire Pacific, following Seattle, San Francisco, and Valparaiso. Callao has been distinguished as the only port south of Panamá with docks accessible to large ships, though, as the accommodations are inadequate, passing coastal steamers usually anchor half a mile away, employing lighters for cargo; recently, steam launches serve passengers, heavy baggage going in row boats. A floating dry dock receives ships of 8000 tons.

Railways to the Interior

The Central Railway. In spite of the enormous difficulties of making a roadbed up a steep cañon or on the face of a bluff, bridging torrents, and tunneling side buttresses and mountain ranges, two railroads, both monuments of skill and perseverance, climb from the coast to the plateau, the Central, and the Southern Railways of Peru. The first, a standard gauge line from Callao begun in 1870 by the American financier, Henry Meiggs, was in 1876 completed as far as Chicla, 88 miles. On account of troubles resulting from the Chilian war, it did not reach Oroya, long the terminus, till 1893. The road follows up the Rimac Valley, which, however, is so steep and narrow that detours into side valleys are necessary, as into the Verrugas, which is crossed by a bridge 225 feet high, one of 67 bridges on the journey. Many curves, tunnels, and V’s are also needed to gain in 7¹⁄₂ hours, with no more than a 4 per cent grade, an elevation of 15,665 feet at a distance from the sea in a straight line of less than 100 miles. Frequently the floor of the cañon has room only for the rushing stream, and the road passes high up on the slope or cliff, at one point, 575 feet, or through one of the 57 tunnels. Some of the cliffs are more than one third of a mile in perpendicular height. The road is considered in some respects the most wonderful of the world’s railways. A branch 10 miles long from Ticlio to Morococha, reaching an altitude of 15,865 feet, a trifle above that of Mont Blanc, is absolutely the highest railway in the world. At Ticlio, the highest point of the main line, is entered the Galera tunnel, three quarters of a mile long, which cuts through the continental divide. The road then descends to Oroya, altitude 12,178 feet. In taking the trip for pleasure or business one not absolutely sure of the soundness of his heart should have it examined, or at least should stop over two days at Matucana, 7788 feet, where there is a fairly comfortable hotel. Any one is liable to suffer somewhat from soroche, which may be avoided by the stop-over. In general persons of good constitution, not too full blooded, will be troubled only by a headache, perhaps accompanied by nausea, and those who are careful to avoid rapid walking or over exertion of any kind for a day or two after arrival above, and who do not overeat before setting out on the journey or afterwards may suffer no inconvenience whatever. No liquor of any kind should be used except in collapse from heart failure. Ammonia is desirable in case of headache.

From Oroya, terminus of the direct line, there are branches to the north and south over the plateau. To reach the montaña interior, which is more accessible here than from any other point in Peru, one may go by automobile over another range a thousand feet above, and beyond this, down, down, down into the montaña. Tarma at 10,000 feet has a delightful climate, and here are trees, perhaps the first seen in Peru, growing as it were of their own accord. The picturesque cañon below is lined with verdure, here and there are entrances to side valleys. Tunnels and romantic swinging bridges formerly lent variety to the ride. The new automobile road opens up a rich and delightfully attractive country. La Merced, altitude 3000 feet, is quite a little town with a pleasant summer climate.