From Montevideo excursions may easily be made to two unique resorts in Maldonado, the next State east of Canelones in which the capital is situated. Both of them face the broad Atlantic, though still on the south shore. Especially should every lover of nature, of plants and trees, improve this opportunity. Not money-making pleasure-grounds are these, but each the labor of love of a Uruguayan gentleman of public spirit and of great wealth.
Punta Ballena has been converted into an Eden by Antonio D. Lussich, founder of the first life-saving station in America. A natural diversity has been intensified by art. The Point by a ridge is divided into two parts—on the east are green meadows, lakes, woods, and animals; on the west, nature is stern and savage with rocks and barren sands, grottoes, etc. On a height which commands a view of the Punta del Este, the sea, the Lobos Island and Lighthouse, Señor Lussich has constructed a residence with a beautiful garden in which roses are a specialty, and a wonderful park including among the reputed two million trees the finest collection of eucalyptus in South America, more than 100 varieties.
Piriapolis. Probably even more worthy of a visit is Piriapolis, to which a railroad has recently been opened. Francisco Piria, possessor of an immense estate in this region, in addition to beautifying a portion, has initiated a reform now being followed by others. He sells on easy terms to the poor considerable tracts for cultivation. The city which he has laid out on the seashore is called an enchanted region unlike any other. Surrounded by mountains in the form of a horse-shoe open to the sea, it is arranged with avenues 100 feet wide and with twenty plazas. A still wider avenue five miles long, in part macadamized, bordered by large trees, crosses the entire property. On the city streets are 40,000 tall eucalyptus trees twenty years old, arranged in perfect lines. The beach, the finest on La Plata River, beautifully smooth, so that children can bathe in safety, has an area of 150 acres. Around the city, and in one large grove are several million trees, 15 to 20 years old, some, 120 feet high. The hotel, called the finest in the country, has 140 elegantly furnished suites with great salons and dining hall, a portico 250 feet long. In front a beautiful park overlooks the ocean; at the sides is the Park of Roses, where Señor Piria has planted 30,000 rose trees. Besides these there are groves of willows, walks, and a trellis more than a quarter of a mile long, affording grateful shade. Close by is a Casino four stories high with a 300-foot front. An artesian well supplies daily 10,000 gallons of good water. All modern conveniences are provided, such as the latest electric and laundry devices.
Two hills separate this beach from the next. On Cerro Ingles is a Fountain of the Virgin, of mineral water which has constructed a stalactite grotto. On the Cerro de los Toros is another mineral spring. High up among grottoes and cascades, in a semi-circular wall of rocks, is a bronze bull of double size, weighing nearly three tons, with a stream of clear water from the rocks above issuing from its mouth. On the same hill is a Greek temple to Aphrodite 30 feet high, the cupola supported by six marble columns; in the center a bronze Venus with a jug under her arm from which will pour daily 5000 gallons of mineral water. All of the spring waters have been analyzed and pronounced good for dyspepsia. At the summit of this Cerro de los Toros is a kind of crater, at the bottom of which, to be seen only from the top of the hill, are woods and meadows. On the Pan de Azucar, one of the surrounding mountains, sheltered by a natural wall of granite, is a row of colossal palms. A chalet has here been erected for the benefit of youths making an excursion. On the Cerro Ingles as well, there is a chalet for tourists. The mountains around, of much interest, are also a source of great wealth, being composed of superb porphyry, black with veins red or white, red with black veins, green with white, about 50 beautiful varieties. The Pan de Azucar, nearly 2000 feet tall, alone is of rich granite, with blocks 200 and 250 feet high, from which monoliths may be taken. Señor Piria has in this section a ranch with blooded cattle, a tract of vineyards, a grove of 10,000 olive trees, and a chateau and other buildings erected at a cost of $100,000. The place is three hours from Montevideo by sea and now that it is accessible in two hours by rail, it will soon become widely known as a resort of extraordinary charms.
CHAPTER XXVII
BRAZIL—ALONG THE COAST TO SANTOS
The extent of the great country, the exact title of which is the United States of Brazil, most of us hardly realize. With fifteen times the area of France, it covers more ground than the United States without Alaska and our more recent acquisitions, is larger than the whole of Europe, and is fifth in size (Percy Martin says third) among the nations of the world. While now it contains barely 22 millions of inhabitants, about five to the square mile, the great scientist and explorer Humboldt once prophesied that it would in the future be the most thickly settled portion of the globe, since from the richly productive nature of the soil life may there be supported with small exertion.
Of a somewhat triangular shape, Brazil extends a distance of 2600 miles from north to south and 2700 from east to west. Although in large part under or near the equator and without lofty mountains, it yet has considerable elevation, averaging 2000 to 3000 feet over more than half of its territory; not enough to occasion extreme cold anywhere, but sufficient to induce a more healthful and comfortable climate in such sections. Bordering on every South American country except Chile and Ecuador, it is favorably situated for having intimate commercial relations with all, when its settlements have spread out in every direction, instead of being chiefly in districts near the coast, with a few in the Amazon valley.
Historical
Accidentally discovered by Europeans within ten years after the first landing of Columbus on Western soil, some years elapsed before it received a permanent settlement. Pedro Álvarez Cabral, a Portuguese nobleman, by good fortune holds the honor of having in 1500 first beheld the most eastern shores of the American continent. Sailing from Lisbon for the East Indies with a fleet of vessels, Cabral was instructed by Vasco da Gama who had made the first all-sea voyage to that region to bear away to the southwest, in order to avoid the frequent calms off the coast of Guinea, until he should reach 34° south latitude when he should turn east. While following these directions, on the 2d of May Cabral sighted a mountain which, as it was Easter week, he called Paschoal. The next day he anchored off shore of the present State of Bahia, to commemorate which event, May 3 is a Brazilian national holiday and the date of the assembling of Congress. Ten days Cabral remained at anchor taking formal possession of the land, and having some communication with the Indians who appeared friendly. On the news reaching Portugal in the fall, another expedition was at once sent out and the coast was explored almost to La Plata, nearly 2000 miles, by Amerigo Vespucci, who was, however, disappointed by finding no wealth of gold or silver and no civilized inhabitants. The only article of immediate value seemed to be brazilwood which, furnishing a bright red dye, was in demand in Europe. Thus the land was called the Country of Brazilwood, soon shortened to Brazil.