The Park, extending behind the hospital—open free to the public until dusk—comprehends a considerable space of ground, nearly 200 acres, of great natural and artificial beauty. A pathway amidst lines of tall trees leads to a piece of rising-ground or mount, which, on holidays, generally exhibits a mirthful scene, in which ‘running down Greenwich hill’ plays a great part. On the summit is the Royal Observatory, founded by George III. for the promotion of astronomical science, and the scene of the labours of some men of distinguished ability. An astronomer-royal, supported by a parliamentary grant, constantly resides and pursues investigations in the Observatory. From this spot British geographers measure the longitude. The collection of instruments kept and used in this building is superb and costly; but the public are not admitted to see them. An electric time-ball falls every day at one o’clock precisely; and an electric clock, a standard barometer, and standard measures of length, (of rigorous accuracy,) are placed for public use by the side of the entrance-gates.
Limehouse to North Woolwich.—If a stranger be willing to lay aside the ideas of mere pleasure spots, he will find much to look at and think about in the stretch of river margin here denoted. First comes the Isle of Dogs, joining Limehouse on the east. This strange horseshoe-shaped piece of ground is almost wholly below the level of the river, the inroads of which are only prevented by embankments. The northern neck of the peninsula (for it is not strictly an island) is occupied by the West India Docks; the middle portion is not much appropriated to any useful purpose, on account of the lowness of the site; the river edge is fringed with shipbuilding and factory establishments. The Great Eastern was here built at Messrs. Scott Russell’s works. A new church has been built at Cubitt Town, the name now given to the eastern part of the Isle. Next below the Isle of Dogs are Poplar and Blackwall, now forming one town—observable for the shipyard of Messrs. Green, the terminus of the Blackwall Railway, the East India Docks, and two or three river-side taverns where whitebait dinners are much in fashion during the season. Then comes the spot, Bow Creek, at which the River Lea enters the Thames, so closely hemmed in by shipyards and engine-factories, that the Lea itself can barely be seen. The great shipyard of the Thames Company, late Messrs. Mare’s, is situated here. Next we come to the extensive and convenient Victoria Docks, occupying ground which was previously mere waste. Beyond the Docks are new centres of population gradually springing up, called Silvertown and North Woolwich, with large factories and a railway station. Still farther east, near Barking Creek, there may be seen the vast outfall of the great system of drainage for the northern half of the metropolis.
Woolwich.—Taking the south side of the river instead of the north, and availing himself of steamers or of trains, (from Charing Cross, Fenchurch Street, or Shoreditch,) the stranger finds the next place of importance below Greenwich to be Woolwich. This is a busy town in Kent, eight miles from London by land, and ten following the course of the river. Here, in the reign of Henry VIII., a dockyard for the construction of vessels of the royal navy was established; and ever since that time the place has been distinguished as an arsenal for naval and military stores. The dockyard was closed 1st October, 1869. From the river, a view is obtained of the arsenal, now greatly improved. The ground of the arsenal, for nearly a mile in length, is bounded on the river side by a stone quay, and is occupied in part by prodigious ranges of storehouses and workshops. Among these is included a laboratory for the preparation of cartridges, bombs, grenades, and shot; a splendid manufactory for shells and guns; a gun-carriage factory of vast extent; and a store of warlike material that never fails to fill a stranger with amazement. Adjoining are barracks for artillery and marines, military hospitals, &c. On the upper part of Woolwich Common is situated a royal military academy for the education of young gentlemen designed for the army. Strangers (if not foreigners) are admitted to the arsenal only by a written order from the War Office. The number of government establishments in and near Woolwich is very large; and there is generally something or other going on which a stranger would be interested in seeing.
Below Woolwich.—Numerous steamers during the day, trains on the Tilbury Railway, and others on the North Kent Railway, give easy access to a number of pleasant places lower down the river than Woolwich. On the Essex side are Rainham, near which onion gardens are kept up; Purfleet, where vast stores of government gunpowder are kept; Grays, where immense quantities of chalk are dug, and where copious springs of very pure water are found in the chalk beds; and Tilbury, where there is a regular fortification for the defence of the river, and a steam-ferry over to Gravesend.
CRYSTAL PALACE, &c.
There are many pretty spots in different directions in the vicinity of London, away from the river, worthy of a visit. On the north-west are Hampstead, with its noble Heath and its charming variety of landscape scenery; and Harrow, with its famous old school, associated with the memory of Byron, Peel, and many other eminent men. To its churchyard Byron was a frequent visitor: “There is,” he wrote to a friend in after years, “a spot in the churchyard, near the footpath on the brow of the hill looking towards Windsor, and a tomb (bearing the name of Peachey) under a large tree, where I used to sit for hours and hours when a boy.” Nearly northward are Highgate, with its fringe of woods, and its remarkable series of ponds; Finchley, once celebrated for its highwaymen, but now for its cemeteries; Hornsey, with its ivy-clad church, and its pretty winding New River; and Barnet, with its great annual fair. On the north-east are Edmonton, which the readers of ‘John Gilpin’ will of course never forget; Enfield, where the government manufacture rifles on a vast scale; Waltham, notable for its abbey and its gunpowder mills; and Epping Forest—a boon to picnic parties from the eastern half of London. ‘Fairlop Oak’ (Hainault Forest) has disappeared.
South of the Thames, likewise, there are many pretty spots, quite distinct from those on the river’s bank. Wimbledon, where volunteers assemble; Mitcham, near which are some interesting herb-gardens; Norwood, a pleasant spot, from which London can be well seen; Lewisham and Bromley, surrounded by many pretty bits of scenery; Blackheath, a famous place for golf and other outdoor games; Eltham, where a bit of King John’s palace is still to be seen; the Crays, a string of picturesque villages on the banks of the river Cray; &c. Dulwich is a village about 5 miles south of London Bridge. Here Edward Alleyn, or Allen, a distinguished actor in the reign of James I., founded and endowed an hospital or college, called Dulwich College, for the residence and support of poor persons, under certain limitations. On 21st June, 1870, a new college, a modern development and extension of the old charity, was formally opened by the Prince and Princess of Wales. The new buildings are entirely devoted to educational purposes, and they have accommodation for 600 or 700 boys. The founder bequeathed some pictures to the institution, and the collection was vastly increased by the addition of a large number, chiefly of the Dutch and Flemish schools, bequeathed in 1810 by Sir Francis Bourgeois. A gallery, designed by Sir John Soane, was opened in 1817; and this now forms a most attractive sight to all who delight in the fine arts. The gallery is open free every week-day from 10 to 5 in summer, and from 10 to 4 in winter.