It is well for a visitor to bear in mind, however, that all the routes we have here sketched have undergone, or are undergoing, rapid changes, owing chiefly to the wonderful extension of railways. Cannon Street, Finsbury, Blackfriars, Snow Hill, Ludgate Hill, Smithfield, Charing Cross, Pimlico, &c., have been stripped of hundreds, nay, thousands of houses.
PALACES AND MANSIONS, ROYAL AND NOBLE.
These two preliminary glances at the City and the West End having (as we will suppose) given the visitor some general idea of the Metropolis, we now proceed to describe the chief buildings and places of interest, conveniently grouped according to their character—beginning with Palatial Residences.
St. James’s Palace.—This is an inelegant brick structure, having its front towards Pall Mall. Henry VIII. built it in 1530, on the site of what was once an hospital for lepers. The interior consists of several spacious levée and drawing rooms, besides other state and domestic apartments. This palace is only used occasionally by the Queen for levées and drawing-rooms; for which purposes, notwithstanding its awkwardness, the building is better adapted than Buckingham Palace. The fine bands of the Foot Guards play daily at eleven, in the Colour Court, or in an open quadrangle on the east side. The Chapel Royal and the German Chapel are open on Sundays—the one with an English service, and the other with service in German.
Buckingham Palace.—This edifice stands at the west end of the Mall in St. James’s Park, in a situation much too low in reference to the adjacent grounds on the north. The site was occupied formerly by a brick mansion, which was pulled down by order of George IV. The present palace (except the front towards the park) was planned and erected by Mr. Nash. When completed, after various capricious alterations, about 1831–2, it is said to have cost about £700,000. The edifice is of stone, with a main centre, and a wing of similar architecture projecting on each side, forming originally an open court in front; but the palace being too small for the family and retinue of the present sovereign, a new frontage has been built, forming an eastern side to the open court. There is, however, little harmony of style between the old and new portions. The interior contains many magnificent apartments, both for state and domestic purposes. Among them are the Grand Staircase, the Ball-room, the Library, the Sculpture Gallery, the Green Drawing-room, the Throne Room, and the Grand Saloon. The Queen has a collection of very fine pictures in the various rooms, among which is a Rembrandt, for which George IV. gave 5000 guineas. In the garden is an elegant summer-house, adorned with frescoes by Eastlake, Maclise, Landseer, Stanfield, and other distinguished painters. This costly palace, however, with all its grandeur, was so badly planned, that in a number of the passages lamps are required to be kept lighted even during the day. Strangers are not admitted to Buckingham Palace except by special permission of the Lord Chamberlain, which is not easily obtained. In the front was once the Marble Arch, which formed an entry to the Palace, and which cost £70,000; but it was removed to the north-east corner of Hyde Park in 1851.
Marlborough House.—This building, the residence of the Prince and Princess of Wales, is immediately east of St. James’s Palace, being separated from it only by a carriage-road. It was built by Sir Christopher Wren, in 1709, as a residence for the great Duke of Marlborough. The house was bought from the Marlborough family by the Crown in 1817, as a residence for the Princess Charlotte. It was afterwards occupied in succession by Leopold (the late king of the Belgians) and the Dowager Queen Adelaide. More recently it was given up to the Government School of Design; and the Vernon and Turner pictures were for some time kept there. The building underwent various alterations preparatory to its occupation by the Prince of Wales.
Kensington Palace.—This is a royal palace, though no longer inhabited by royalty, occupying a pleasant situation west of Hyde Park. It was built by Lord Chancellor Finch late in the 17th century; and soon afterwards sold to William III. Additions were made to it from time to time. Certain portions of the exterior are regarded as fine specimens of brickwork; and the whole, though somewhat heavy in appearance, is not without points of interest. During the last century Kensington Palace was constantly occupied by members of the royal family. Many of them were born there, and many died there also. The present Queen was born in the palace in 1819. The Prince and Princess of Teck reside there at present. This, like the other royal palaces, is maintained at the expense of the nation; though not now used as a royal residence, pensioned or favoured families occupy it.
