Parallel to this part of the wharf upon the walls is a platform seventy yards in length called the Ladies line, from its being much frequented in summer evenings by the ladies, as on the inside it is shaded with a row of lofty trees, and without affords a fine prospect of the shipping, and of the boats passing and repassing the river. The ascent to this line is by stone steps, and being once upon it, you may walk almost round the Tower walls without interruption, in doing which you will pass three batteries, the first called the Devil’s battery, where is a platform, on which are mounted seven pieces of cannon: the next is named the Stone battery, and defended by eight pieces of cannon; and the last, called the Wooden battery is mounted with six pieces of cannon: all these are brass, and nine pounders.
But to return to the wharf, which is divided from Tower Hill at each end, by gates opened every morning for the convenience of a free intercourse between the respective inhabitants of the tower, the city, and its suburbs. From this wharf is an entrance for persons on foot over the drawbridge, already mentioned; and also a water-gate under the Tower wall, commonly called Traitor’s Gate, through which it has been customary, for the greater privacy, to convey traitors and other state prisoners by water, to and from the Tower: the water of the ditch having here a communication with the Thames, by means of a stone bridge on the wharf. However the Lords committed to the Tower for the last rebellion, were publicly admitted at the main entrance. Over this water-gate, is a regular building terminated at each end by a round tower, on which are embrasures for cannon, but at present none are mounted there. In this building are an infirmary, a mill, and the water-works that supply the Tower with water.
The principal entrance into the Tower is by two gates to the west, one within the other, and both large enough to admit coaches and heavy carriages. Having passed thro’ the first of these you proceed over a strong stone bridge, built over the ditch, which on the right-hand leads to the lions tower, and to a narrow passage to the draw bridge on the wharf, while on the left-hand is a kind of street in which is the Mint. The second gate is at a small distance beyond the lions tower, and is much stronger than the first, it has a portcullis to let down upon occasion, and is guarded not only by some soldiers, but by the warders of the Tower, whose dress and appearance will be immediately described.
The Officers of the Tower. The principal of these to whom the government of the Tower is committed, are, first the Constable of the Tower, who has 1000l. per annum, and is usually a person of quality, as his post at all coronations and state ceremonies, is of the utmost importance, and as the crown and other regalia are in his custody: he has under him a Lieutenant, and a deputy Lieutenant; these officers are likewise of great dignity; the first has 700l. a year, and the last, who is commonly called the Governor of the Tower, has 1l. a day. The other officers are, a tower-major, a chaplain, a physician, a gentleman-porter, a yeoman-porter, a gentleman-jailer, four quarter-gunners, and forty warders, who wear the same uniform as the King’s yeomen of the guard. They have round flat crowned caps, with bands of party-coloured ribbands: Their coats, which are of a particular make, but very becoming, have large sleeves, and very full skirts gathered round, somewhat in the manner of a petticoat. These coats are of fine scarlet cloth, laced round the edges and seams with several rows of gold lace, and girt round their waists with a broad laced girdle. Upon their breasts and backs they wear the King’s silver badge, an embroidered thistle and rose, and the letters G. R. in very large capitals.
The ceremony at opening and shutting the gates. This is done every morning and night with great formality. A little before six in the morning in summer, and as soon as it is well light in winter, the yeoman-porter goes to the Governor’s house for the keys, and from thence proceeds back to the innermost gate, attended by a serjeant and six of the main guard. This gate being opened to let them pass, is again shut; while the yeoman-porter and the guard proceed to open the outermost gates, at each of which the guards rest their firelocks, as do the spur-guard, while the keys pass and repass. The yeoman-porter then returning to the innermost gate, calls to the warders in waiting to take in King George’s keys; whereupon the gate is opened, and the keys lodg’d in the warders hall, till the time of locking them up again, which is usually about ten or eleven at night, with the same formality as when opened. After they are shut, the yeoman and guard proceed to the main guard, who are all under arms, with the officers upon duty at their head. The usual challenge from the main guard is, Who comes here? To which the yeoman-porter answers The keys. The challenger returns Pass keys, and the officer orders the guard to rest their firelocks; upon which the yeoman-porter says, God save King George, and Amen is loudly answered by all the guard. The yeoman-porter then proceeds with his guard to the Governor’s, where the keys are left; after which no person can go out, or come in upon any pretence whatsoever till the next morning, without the watch-word for the night, which is kept so secret, that none but the proper officers, and the serjeant upon guard, ever come to the knowledge of it; for it is the same on the same night, in every fortified place throughout England. But when that is given by any stranger to the centinel at the spur-guard, or outer gate, he communicates it to his serjeant, who passes it to the next on duty, and so on till it comes to the Governor, or commanding officer, by whom the keys are delivered to the yeoman-porter, who, attended as before, the main guard being put under arms, brings them to the outer gate, where the stranger is admitted, and conducted to the Governor; when having made known his business, he is conducted back to the outer gate; and dismissed, the gate shut, and the keys delivered again with the same formality as at first. It is happy for us that all this seems mere form and parade; but it is however fit that all this ceremony should be duly observed.
The Lions Tower. In examining the curiosities of the Tower, it will be proper to begin with those on the outside the principal gate, the first thing a stranger, usually goes to visit is the wild beasts, which from their situation first present themselves: for having entered the outer gate, and passed what is called the spur-guard, the keeper’s house presents itself before you, which is known by a painted lion on the wall, and another over the door which leads to their dens; and by ringing a bell, and paying six pence each person, you may easily gain admittance.
At your entrance, you come to a range of dens in the form of an half moon. These dens are rooms about twelve or thirteen feet high, divided into two apartments, the upper and the lower. In the upper apartment the beasts generally live in the day, and at night retire into the lower to rest: you view them through large iron grates, like those before the windows of a prison; so that you may see them with the utmost safety, be they ever so savage. Some of these dens are empty, and other inhabited by lionesses of different ages, who are here kept with the utmost care, particularly while young; for hardly any creature is more tender than a lion’s whelp, and they would here infallibly perish, were they not immediately taken from their dams as soon as whelped; for even in Barbary, where they are a part of the inhabitants of the woods and forests, many of them die in strong convulsions, from the pain they suffer in breeding their teeth. Those bred in the Tower are kept twelve months in a warm room, and fed mostly with milk diet, before they are put into their dens: when about five or six weeks old, they are as gentle as a lamb; but it is observed, that their savage nature gradually increases with their growth, which at three years is at the full, and then they seem as fierce as those brought from abroad.
The first they shew is Dido, a beautiful lioness, about twelve years of age; and the next is a young lioness from Africa, that used to play with her keeper like a puppy. She was taken by a negroe boy, as she was drinking in the river Gambia, on the coast of Africa, when no bigger than a cat; for the boy being sent to fetch water, found her without her dam, and carried her home: but the dam afterwards coming in search of her, and not finding her, ran roaring about, and killed several negroes, the cattle and every living thing that came in her way. The boy and the lioness were bought by the French, but being taken in their passage to Europe, were sent to the Tower, where she seemed incredibly fond of the young negroe.
After having seen another lioness or two, you are conducted to another range, where you are shewn a fine leopard, and three most beautiful tygers. The tyger, in shape resembles a cat, only is much larger, and when wild is extremely fierce and ravenous, it lurks in the woods, and seizes its prey by a sudden spring, and men in traversing the desarts, are frequently surprized by this animal. These tygers are finely spotted or streaked with black upon a yellowish ground. They are full of play, and leap a prodigious height, when, like a cat, they are playing their gambols. As to the leopard, he is a most beautiful creature; his colour is a shining yellow, finely interspersed with bright spots. No description can give the reader a complete idea of these beasts; for every image that words can convey, must fall short of that original beauty stamped upon them by nature.
Having satisfied your curiosity with the sight of these extraordinary beasts, you are shewn a variety of birds, among which is a golden eagle, a noble bird that has been kept here above ninety years; besides which there are other eagles from different countries, all of them having something different in their shape or colour, by which a curious observer may easily distinguish them.