| [I.] | |
|---|---|
| Page | |
| In the Tropics—First View of Havana—Entering the Bay—Surrounded—Landed—AStreet in Havana—“Queen’s Hotel”—A Breakfast—TheHarbor—The Coolies—The Plaza de Armas—Cuban Women—AVolante—Fine Avenues—A Priest—Shopping | [7] |
| [II.] | |
| Celebrating a Victory—General Serrano—A Cuban Sacristan—His View ofMary Magdalene—Sunday—The Theatre de Tacon—General Serrano’sWife—A “Norther”—The Fish Market—Brilliancy of the Fish—AVenerable Cosmopolite—The Slaves—The Chain Gang—The Cerro—ACount’s Country-house—No Twilight—Oranges—Polyglot Dinner—LotteryTicket | [17] |
| [III.] | |
| Drive to the Sea-shore—Evening Boat-ride—Splendor of the Waters—Campodel Marte—Low Mass—The “Madonna”—Beautiful Children—Churchof San Filipo—Sacred Names—The Mount of Jesus—Corruptionof the Clergy—Cuba Misrepresented in Books—Growing “usedto it”—A Creole—Cascarilla—Warm Weather—The Cortina | [30] |
| [IV.] | |
| Departing Guests—The Varieties—On Board, but not Gone—No Chimneys—Dog-Pails—Horses’Tails—Tall Negroes—Ecclesiastical TorchlightProcession—Watchmen—Leaving Havana—In the Country—Stopped—Seekinga Breakfast—A Cuban Village—A Primitive Well—APeculiar Palm—Guiness—Our Quarters therein | [45] |
| [V.] | |
| A Palm-grove—A Planter’s Household—Coolies as compared with Negroes—Anecdotesof Coolies—Robbers—Heterogeneous Dinner—CreolePoliteness | [60] |
| [VI.] | |
| “Nice pretty House in the Country”—Wrong Side of the Horse—Discoveryin Mental Photography—Visit to the Country-house—Not to be obtained—Contrastof Palms and Bamboos—The Youth of Tropical Nature—ARemarkable Phenomenon—House of the Marquis of V—— — “LeArmistad”—Burial of an Officer’s Child—A Shock—“Cafetal”—“LaProvidencia”—A Sugar Plantation—The “Royal Highway”—AGrand View | [67] |
| [VII.] | |
| It Rains—The Effect—No Miserere—Guirappa-seeking—A SkeletonHorse—B——’s Pantomimes—A Day More—The Bells of Guiness—MarketDay—An Invitation—Another Plantation—A RemarkableTree—Palm-Sunday—A Sundayless World—Dreamland—I Didn’tSmoke—Cushioned Heads | [84] |
| [VIII.] | |
| Dear old Mr. R—— — Chess and Whist and Life—Good Friday—A ReligiousProcession—The Silence of the Town—The Miserere—To Matanzas—Companyin the Cave—Father M——’s approach to Matanzas—TheBay—Valley of the Yumuri—The Plaza—The Dominica—TheEnsor House—Easter Sunday—The Paseo—Steamer to Havana—ANight on Board—“Queen’s Hotel”—Tricks on a Travelling Author—Thefton the Almanac | [97] |
| [IX.] | |
| A Discovery for the Benefit of Smugglers—The Steamer Karnak—Adieu,Cuba!—An English Ship—Nassau—The Negro Custom-officer—EnglishHotel—An Ex-President—What the Island is and has—The NegroElement—The “Eastern Road”—The Air—The Beau Monde—TurtleHouses | [113] |
| [X.] | |
| The Military Church—The Zouave Costume—Sunday come again—TwilightRambles—The Kirk—Miscegenation—A Private Misery—TheOld Fort—Lazy Negroes—Wrecking—The Town Library—Shopping—TheZouave Band—The Search for Coolness—The GovernmentHouse—Silver Key—Buying Shellwork—Nassau grows Purgatorial—Farewellto Nassau | [124] |
RAMBLES IN CUBA.
I.
In the Tropics—First View of Havana—Entering the Bay—Surrounded—Landed—A Street in Havana—“Queen’s Hotel”—A Breakfast—The Harbor—The Coolies—The Plaza de Armas—Cuban Women—A Volante—Fine Avenues—A Priest—Shopping.
Havana, March 1, 18—.
HE first dawn of day found me already on deck, to assure myself we had really arrived at the shores of a tropical-world.