- Shut off the water.
- Empty the tank and bowl by siphoning or sponging out the water.
- Disconnect the water pipes to the tank (see [fig. 7]).
- Disconnect the tank from the bowl if the water closet is a two-piece unit. Set the tank where it cannot be damaged. Handle tank and bowl carefully; they are made of vitreous china or porcelain and are easily chipped or broken.
- Remove the seat and cover from the bowl.
- Carefully pry loose the bolt covers and remove the bolts holding the bowl to the floor flange ([fig. 8]). Jar the bowl enough to break the seal at the bottom. Set the bowl upside down on something that will not chip or break it.
- Remove the obstruction from the discharge opening.
- Place a new wax seal around the bowl horn and press it into place. A wax seal (or gasket) may be obtained from hardware or plumbing-supply stores.
- Set the bowl in place and press it down firmly. Install the bolts that hold it to the floor flange. Draw the bolts up snugly, but not too tight because the bowl may break. The bowl must be level. Keep a carpenter's level on it while drawing up the bolts. If the house has settled, leaving the floor sloping, it may be necessary to use shims to make the bowl set level. Replace the bolt covers.
- Install the tank and connect the water pipes to it. It is advisable to replace all gaskets, after first cleaning the surfaces thoroughly.
- Test for leaks by flushing a few times.
- Install the seat and cover.
Figure 8.—Connection of water closet to floor and soil pipe.
When cold water enters a water closet tank, it may chill the tank enough to cause "sweating" (condensation of atmospheric moisture on the outer surface of the tank). This can be prevented by insulating the tank to keep the temperature of the outer surface above the dew point temperature of surrounding air. Insulating jackets or liners that fit inside water-closet tanks and serve to keep the outer surface warm are available from plumbing-supply dealers.