For some way we followed the straight and formal course of a canal, near this, communicating with the Pont-y-Cyssyllte; we again paused to survey this wonderful design. The vale, on our left, was indescribably beautiful; and over the whole was diffused the purple glow of the evening. The prospect was composed of the miniature parts of the immense landscape we had viewed from Dinas Brân Hill, each of which we now contemplated separately as a scene. The moon’s chequered gleam besilvered the walls of Chirk castle, just as we entered the Hand inn, where, after the fatigues of a long walk, we met with excellent accommodation, when considered as a village.
After breakfast the next morning we endeavoured to obtain admission to see the inside of Chirk Castle, but without success; though now only inhabited by servants, who were peremptorily commanded to admit no strangers. It is situated on an eminence, surrounded by a park and fine plantations, which are very judiciously laid out. This elegant mansion has been in the possession of the Middleton family ever since the year 1614. Having gratified ourselves with a survey of this noble park, we returned to the Oswestry road. Leaving the village of Chirk, we crossed a new bridge of one arch, elegantly constructed. Near it is another aqueduct, of considerable extent, now erecting over this river and valley, which though very inferior to the Pont-y-Cyssyllte, is still a great undertaking: it is several hundred yards in length, and the brick piers rise fifty or sixty feet above the level of the water. Near this is a rich coal mine, lately discovered.
From hence to Oswestry we traversed a rich enclosed country, and enjoyed a scene particularly pleasing: all the inhabitants were collected, to gather in the produce of the ripened field; and
“Through their cheerful band the rural talk,
The rural scandal, and the rural jest,
Fled harmless.”
To the traveller and the poet such scenes afford an ample field for amusement; but waving corn is ill adapted to the canvas of the painter. About two miles from Oswestry, we passed through the little town of
WHITTINGTON.
At this place was fought the battle between Oswald, the Christian King of the Northumbrians, and Penda, the Pagan King of the Mercians, in which the former lost his life. An easy walk soon brought us to
OSWESTRY.
Its only relics now remaining are the ruins of a chapel, built over a remarkably fine spring of water; to this was formerly attributed the cure of various diseases, incident both to man and beast; and though its miracles have long ceased, yet it still bears the name of the saint. The remains of the castle, supposed to have been built at the time of the conquest, are now almost too trivial to be noticed. This town was garrisoned by the king, in the beginning of the civil wars, but captured in June, 1644, by the Earl of Denbigh and General Mytton.
In passing through the town of Oswestry we noticed the church, as being a very neat building; but, either from our own neglect, or imagining it not to be ancient, we did not inspect the interior. Oswestry suffered greatly by fire in the year 1542, and likewise in 1567.