The towers are extremely elegant; but not being entwined with ivy, do not wear that picturesque appearance which castles generally possess. Over the principal entrance, which leads into an oblong court, is seated, beneath a great tower, the statue of the founder, holding in his left hand a dagger: this gateway was originally fortified with four portcullises. At the west end the eagle tower, remarkably light and beautiful, in a polygon form; three small hexagon turrets rising from the middle, with eagles placed on their battlements; from thence it derives its name. In a little dark room [186] in this tower, measuring eleven feet by seven, was born King Edward II. April 25, 1284. The thickness of the wall is about ten feet. To the top of the tower we reckoned one hundred and fifty-eight steps; from whence an extensive view of the adjacent country is seen to great advantage. On the south are three octagonal towers, with small turrets, with similar ones on the north. All these towers communicate with each other by a gallery, both on the ground, middle, and upper floor, formed within the immense thickness of the walls, in which are cut narrow slips, at convenient distances, for the discharge of arrows.
This building, founded on a rock, is the work of King Edward I. the conqueror of the principality; the form of it is a long irregular square, enclosing an area of about two acres and a half. From the information of the Sebright manuscript, Mr. Pennant says, that, by the united efforts of the peasants, it was erected within the space of one year.
Having spent near three hours in surveying one of the noblest castles in Wales, we walked round the environs of the town. The terrace [187] round the castle wall, when in existence, was exceedingly pleasing, being in front of the Menai, which is here upwards of a mile in breadth, forming a safe harbour, and is generally crowded with vessels, exhibiting a picture of national industry; whilst near it a commodious quay presents an ever-bustling scene, from whence a considerable quantity of slate, and likewise copper, from the Llanberris mine, is shipped for different parts of the kingdom.
Caernarvon may certainly be considered as one of the handsomest and largest towns in North Wales; and under the patronage of the Marquess of Anglesea promises to become still more populous and extensive.
In Bangor-street is the Anglesea Arms hotel, a large and most respectable inn; where, as well as the Goat, the charges are moderate and the accommodations excellent.
Caernarvon is only a township and chapelry to Llanbeblic. Its market is on a Saturday, which is well supplied and reasonable; and with the spirited improvements made to the town and harbour, has been the means of greatly increasing its population: according to the late returns it contains 1008 houses, and 6000 inhabitants. The church, or rather chapel, has been rebuilt by subscription. Service is performed here in English, and at the mother church at Llanbeblic [188] in Welsh.
The port, although the Aber sand-banks, forming a dangerous bar, must ever be a great drawback upon it, has not only been wonderfully improved, but is in that progressive state of improvement by the modern mode of throwing out piers, that vessels can now, of considerable tonnage, lie alongside the quay, and discharge or take in their cargoes in perfect safety; this bids fair, as may be seen by the rapid increase of its population and tonnage, to make it a place of trade and considerable resort: yet still it only ranks as a creek, and its custom-house is made dependent on that of the haven of Beaumaris, to the comptroller of which its officer is obliged to report: this must be a considerable hindrance to its trade, particularly in matters out of the customary routine. The county hall, which is near the castle, is a low building, but sufficiently commodious within to hold with convenience the great sessions. Caernarvon possessed such great favour with Edward the First, as to have the first royal charter granted in Wales given to it. It is by that constituted a free borough. It has one alderman, one deputy mayor, two bailiffs, a town-clerk, two serjeants at mace, and a mayor; who, for the time, is governor of the castle, and is allowed 200l. per annum to keep it in repair. It jointly with Conway, Nevin, Criccaeth, and Pwllheli, sends a member to parliament, for the return of whom every inhabitant, resident or non-resident, who has been admitted to the freedom of the place, possesses a vote.
It is allowed to have a prison for petty offences independent of the sheriff. Its burgesses likewise were exempt throughout the kingdom from tollage, lastage, passage, murage, pontage, and all other impositions of whatever kind, with other privileges, too numerous to insert.
The county prison is likewise near the castle. It was erected in the year 1794. The new market-house, containing the butchers’ shambles, &c. is a well-contrived and convenient building, affording good storage for corn and other articles left unsold.
The site of the ancient town of Segontium, which lies about half a mile south of the present one, will be found worthy the attention of the traveller; it was the only Roman station of note in this part of Cambria, on which a long chain of minor forts and posts were dependent. It is even maintained, and that by respectable authorities, that it was not only the residence but burial-place of Constantius, father of Constantine the Great; but most probably this arises from confusing Helena, the daughter of Octavius, Duke of Cornwall, who was born at Segontium, and married to Maximus, first cousin of Constantine, with Helena, his mother, whom these authorities assert to have been the daughter of a British king. A chapel, said to have been founded by Helen, and a well which bears her name, are amongst the ruins still pointed out.