From hence we proceeded to
HOLYHEAD,
called in Welsh Caergybi, situated on an island at the western extremity of Anglesea. It has lately changed its aspect from a poor fishing village to a decent looking town, in consequence of its being the chief resort for passengers to and from Dublin. The distance across the channel is about fifty-five miles; and there are four steam packets which daily cross the channel, with the mail and government despatches.
Each vessel has two cabins, beautifully fitted up, light and airy; and every thing appears to have been attended to, that can either add to the comfort or safety of the passengers: expense has not been spared for that which was useful, and conducive to safety; and the equipment having been superintended by the late Captain Rogers, an experienced officer, on the Holyhead station, nothing has been misapplied. The passage is effected in from five and a half to seven hours, a distance of fifty-five miles; and the letters are delivered in Dublin from London in the short space of forty hours.
In short, the attention which government has evinced to facilitate the communication between the two kingdoms merits every praise. Neither exertion nor expense have been spared in improving the roads from Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which improvements have been executed under the direction of Mr. Telford, who is now commencing on that from Chester to the above place; and now the suspension bridge over Conway Ferry (for which parliament voted 40,000l.) is completed, in addition to that over the Menai at Bangor Ferry, but few persons will run the risk of a dilatory and dangerous passage by Liverpool, when they may have a certain and a safe one by Holyhead, with excellent roads and accommodation; and without the trouble of the ferries, which were formerly an inconvenience to persons taking this route.
Near the centre of the town, on a rock close above the sea, is a church, on the site where St. Cybi, in A.D. 380, founded a small monastery, which, in 580, was converted into a college by Maelgwyn Gwynedd, or, according to some, by Hwfa ap Cynddelw, Lord of Llifon, one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales. James I. granted this college to Francis Morris and Francis Phillips, which afterwards became the property of Rice Gwyn, Esq. who bestowed the great tithes on Jesus College, Oxford, for the maintenance of two fellows and two scholars: from that time the parish has been served by a curate nominated by the college. This church is a handsome embattled edifice, built in the form of a cross, with this inscription, on a pediment of the north transept: “Sancte Kyb. ora pro nobis.” The walls of the churchyard are seventeen feet high, six feet thick, and form a quadrangle; three sides of which are evidently Roman, although ascribed to Caswellon Llawhir, a chieftain of Anglesea, in the fifth century: the east side is a modern low wall on the verge of the cliffs.
A fine extensive pier is now completed, on an island called Ynys-halen, which forms the north side of the harbour; at the extremity of which is a fine light-house, exhibiting a brilliant light by oil gas. This grand national undertaking has already afforded an asylum to the trade of the Channel: no less than sixty or eighty vessels have entered the harbour in one day, and many more have sailed out in one tide. Before the erection of the pier, which commenced in 1809, many valuable vessels, seeking for shelter in stormy weather, were lost with their crews on the southern shores of the harbour. From this port are sent upwards of 40,000 bushels of excellent grain every year. It contains 4071 inhabitants.
Under the mountain which overhangs the town, called the Head, is a large cavern, supported by natural huge pillars, named the Parliament House: this, as well as several others, perforate deep into the mountain, and is inaccessible without a boat. The South Slack light-house, on an islet, within about twenty yards of the bold cliffs of the mountain, exhibits a revolving light of the greatest utility. The islet is connected with the mountain by means of a suspension bridge, which is worthy the attention of the curious. Among these rocks vast numbers of the peregrine falcon take, up their abode, together with pigeons, gulls, puffins, razor-bills, and other sea-birds.
In returning from Holyhead, instead of taking the old circuitous line of road by Gwyndee and Llangefni, we took the new road, formed by Mr. Telford under the direction of the parliamentary commissioners, and which cost government, exclusive of bridges and embankments, at the rate of 2000l. per mile. The steepest part of the present line does not exceed one in thirty, and is considered the finest specimen of road-making in the kingdom, and at the same time reduces the distance from Holyhead to Bangor full three miles.
Having again reached Bangor, we determined still farther to explore the beauties of this delightful spot and its vicinity. Having taken a hasty refreshment, we bent our steps towards Aber cegin, near the mouth of a small rivulet that empties itself into Port Penrhyn, and from thence proceeded to