Crossing the ferry we determined on exploring the Criddin, a Commot, or Hundred of Caernarvonshire, at the extremity of which is that noted landmark, the Great Orme’s Head. This commot is supposed to contain some of the best arable and meadow land in this part of the principality; the shores and cliffs likewise afford excellent limestone, and pebbles for paving; both of which are shipped in large quantities for Liverpool and other markets. Dyganwy, or Dinas Gonwy, The Fort of the Conway, was once the residence of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, who here held his court. The following anecdote of which, as connected with Taliesin, the British Bard, I shall give the heads of from Mr. Bingley:
“Gwyddno Garanhir, brother of Maelgwyn, who likewise resided in the neighbourhood, had near his residence a weir, called Gored Wyddno, Gwyddno’s Weir, which is even yet known by the same name, and belongs to Sir Thomas Mostyn, as owner of the house of Bodscallon. Elphin, the son of Gwyddno, was an extravagant youth; and at one time he had so greatly exhausted his finances, that he was compelled, as a temporary relief, to ask his father the benefit of the weir for a single night. The request was complied with, but not a single fish was caught. [248] A leathern basket was however taken up, which, on examination, was found to contain a child. This was an unfortunate circumstance to one so much in want of a successful tide. Elphin had, however, the humanity to direct that the child should be taken care of, and that no expense should be spared in his education. The youth, who was named Taliesin, was introduced by Elphin at his father’s court; and his first step towards fame was in reciting there a poem containing the history of his life, called Hanes Taliesin. Maelgwyn Gwynedd was greatly surprised at his talent, and himself became afterwards his patron. Some time after this a dispute took place at Diganwy, betwixt Elphin and his father, of so serious a nature, as to cause the former to be thrown into prison. His attentions to Taliesin now proved of the utmost importance to him. The bard addressed to the prince a poem on his patron, which excited his commiseration, and caused him to issue an immediate order for Elphin’s release. Taliesin continued to receive, throughout the whole of his life, the attentions, the admirations, and the applause which his talents justly merited; and after his death he was honoured with the appellation of The Prince of the British Bards.”
Gloddaith woods particularly, and most part of this small district, afford considerable amusement to the botanist; as will the libraries of Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. at Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, to the antiquarian and the historian. The former of these seats was built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth; since which period both mansion and furniture have experienced but trifling alterations.
The tremendous precipice on the west side of the Ormshead is worthy of a visit. The sea view is very extensive, and generally enlivened by the passing of Liverpool shipping; you likewise command a view of the Isle of Man, and occasionally views of the Irish, Lancashire, and the distant haze of the Scottish coast. The sea birds frequent these cliffs and shores in great abundance, more particularly gulls, razor-bills, guillemots, corvorants, herons, and the peregrine falcon; the latter of which, in the days of falconry, was held in such high estimation, that the celebrated Lord Burleigh sent a letter of thanks for a present of a cast of hawks from this place to an ancestor of Sir Thomas Mostyn’s. Unprotected by any shelter, on the summit of the high promontory, stands the small church of Llandudno, but little famous for any thing but its singular situation, and its service as a beacon. Proceeding along the mail-road, with the sea on our left, and low rocks on our right, nothing particular attracted our attention, till in descending a hill about two miles from the neat bathing-town of
ABERGELE,
we observed, on our right, two immense caverns, about half way up the mountain; they are called Cavern-arogo, and run four or five hundred yards into the ground; but their real extent has never been ascertained with accuracy. From these mountains vast quantities of lime are shipped for Liverpool and many parts of England.
Abergele, situate on the edge of Rhuddlan Marsh, is a small neat town of one street, resorted to in the summer season for bathing. The sands afford excellent walking; in the evening we lingered on the beach for a considerable time, enjoying the calm but cheerful beauty of nature, and inhaling the pure sea-breeze—for
. . . “The wind was hush’d;
And to the beach each slowly-lifted wave,
Creeping with silver-curl, just kiss’d the shore,
And slept in silence.”Mason’s Garden.
With pleasure mixed with reverential awe, we trod Rhuddlan Marsh, so celebrated in the annals of history. Here the ill-fated Richard II. was betrayed into the hands of Bolingbroke, and taken prisoner to Flint: here Offa, King of Mercia, met his untimely death: here the Welsh, under the command of Caradoc, in the year 795, were defeated in a conflict with the Saxons, and their leader slain in the action. This memorable and tragic event is handed down to posterity by an ancient celebrated and affecting ballad, called Morva Rhuddlan, or the Marsh of Rhuddlan, composed by the bards on the death of Prince Caradoc.
The ground we trod, connected with so many events, revived in our minds the memory of past ages; a series of historical events came to our recollection; events that are now so distant, as almost to be obliterated from the page of history. Passing over a bridge of two arches, thrown over the river Clwyd, we entered