From Chester to Mold there is but little worthy of remark. The distance is about twelve miles: part of the road lies over an extensive flat, called Saltney, a rich and well-cultivated tract of country. Mold is a small neat town, situate in a pleasant valley, surrounded by gentle acclivities: here the assizes for the county of Flint are held. It formerly possessed a strong castle on the north side, built on a mount called the Baily-Hill, of which but few vestiges are now remaining: it is famed in history for the sieges it sustained. The church is a handsome structure, worthy of attention, built in the reign of Henry the Seventh, and contains some fine monuments.
In the vicinity of Mold are large cotton spinning-mills, belonging to a company at Manchester. The two Leeswoods, one the residence of the Rev. Hope Wynne Eyton, the other of Mr. Garnor, formerly of Sir George Wynne, are more remarkable for the gardens, grounds, and more particularly the beautiful iron gates at the entrance of the lawn of the latter, than for size and architecture.
Tower, the residence of the dowager Mrs. Wardle, is a specimen of the ancient border-houses on the confines of Wales and Scotland. It is a square tower, consisting of three stories: in the lower story there still remains a staple in the ceiling—a memorial of the rudeness of the times. During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, this place was inhabited by Reinallt ap Gryffydd Bleyddyn; one of the six gallant captains who defended Harlech Castle on the part of Henry the Sixth. He and his people were in continual feud with the citizens of Chester. In 1465, a considerable number of the latter came to Mold fair. A fray ensued between the two parties, and dreadful slaughter was made on both sides. Reinallt, however, got the victory, taking prisoner Robert Bryne or Browne, Mayor of Chester, who, in his private capacity as a draper, had attended the fair; whom he led to this tower, and hung on the staple in his great hall. About a mile north-west of the town is Maes Garmon, famous for the celebrated battle of the Victoria Alleluiatica; in which the Britons, under the two bishops, Germanus and Lupus, in Easter week, 448, defeated and destroyed the Picts and Saxons. Germanus, having previously directed his soldiers to repeat loudly and generally the word he should give, he at the proper time pronounced Alleluja! The whole army caught the sacred sound; which they repeated with such energy, that the mountains echoed the religious exultation; and both combined to strike such terror into the invading foe, that he fled in the utmost consternation: numbers fell by the sword, and as many perished in the adjacent river. This event is commemorated by the Hallelujah Monument, erected by the late Nehemiah Griffith, Esq. of Rhual. Mold has two inns, the Black Lion and Griffin: its market is on a Saturday.
From Mold to Denbigh the distance is about sixteen miles and a half. On the left of the road is Kilken, visited on account of the beautiful carved roof of its church, brought from Basingwerk Abbey, on the dissolution of that house. Above it, on the summit of Moel Famma, is the monument, erected by the inhabitants of the counties of Flint and Denbigh, in commemoration of his late Majesty, King George the Third, having completed the fiftieth year of his reign. The column was designed by Mr. Harrison, of Lancaster, the architect of Chester Castle, &c. Under the column were deposited in a vase numerous coins, illustrative of this memorable reign. Lord Kenyon laid the first stone on the 25th of October, 1810. In the neighbourhood of Kilken are numerous rich lead mines and other works; amongst which, Pen y fron, belonging to Mr. Ingleby, and Llyn y Pandu, held under Lord Grosvenor, by the late John Wilkinson, Esq., are amongst the richest for their veins, these being from four to six feet thick; but the great bodies of water from which they have to free these mines, by means of powerful steam engines, are great drawbacks upon their profits.
Moel Arthur, another portion of the Clwydian Hills, has on the top of it the remains of a fortified British camp, having two very deep fossæ, with corresponding valla, on the approachable sides; and on the precipitous one is a smooth terrace, apparently levelled by art, for exercising the troops.
Penbedw Hall, the seat of Mr. Williams, is a handsome object. On the left of the road, at a small distance from the house, is a carnedd or tumulus, and the remains of a Druidical circle.
Bodfari is by some conjectured to be the Varis of Antoninus; but on this point antiquaries and historians are not agreed, others believing Caerwys to have been that station.
Bachegraig is a most singularly-constructed house, built by Sir Richard Clough, who served his apprenticeship to Sir Thomas Gresham; and having acquired a great fortune by trade, contributed liberally, like his master, towards the building of the Royal Exchange. The house consists of a kind of centre and three sides, which form a quadrangle, enclosing a square area or court. The principal part comprises a hall, with an adjoining parlour of large dimensions; and the other parts of the building are carried up to the unusual height of six stories, terminating with a cupola. We from hence turned back to
CAERWYS,
which lies to the right of the road. It was formerly a place of much consequence, at which the assizes for the county of Flint were held, as were likewise a species of British Olympics, it being the seat of the “Eisteddfod,” or Sessions of the Bards and Minstrels; the grand theatre where, in honourable contention, they tried their skill, poured forth their extemporaneous effusions, awaked their harps to melody,