The church next demanded our attention, the only one belonging to this town. The time of the foundation of this ancient and elegant structure cannot now be strictly ascertained: it is situated on an eminence, in the centre of the town. The square tower is lofty, and of very light architecture, but the upper part suffered much from the all-destroying hand of Oliver Cromwell. The highly-finished statues round the battlements are much mutilated, and many entirely destroyed. On entering the church, six light Gothic fluted arches on each side, with four similar ones of larger dimensions, supporting the tower, are strikingly grand. Under the organ-loft we passed into the chancel, now only made use of for the administration of the sacrament. This is a most elegant building, with thirteen stalls on each side, similar, in style, to the generality of cathedrals. The seats of the stalls, all of which turn back, exhibit specimens of curious workmanship, with strange devices and ridiculous conceits. Some of the glass painted windows are still in good preservation: the large one over the altar-piece represents the history of St. Lawrence, to whom this church is dedicated, in fifty-four compartments. The other windows of the chancel are much mutilated, collected from different parts of the church, and several panes broken by the unmeaning idleness of boys, regardless of these valuable relics of antiquity.—In the side of the wall, near the altar, are two stone stalls, with a piscina opposite.
In this chancel is a handsome monument, erected to the memory of Robert Townsend and his wife, with several figures of their sons and daughters carved round the bottom; over them are the arms of their family and connexions; it bears the date of 1581: a modern monument to Theophilus Solway, Esq. An ancient one to Ambrosia Sydney, who died at Ludlow Castle. This lady was daughter to Sir Henry Sydney, who attained the important situation of the presidency of Wales in the year 1564. He died at Bewdley in 1584, and left this singular injunction to his executors: “That his heart should be buried at Shrewsbury, his bowels at Bewdley, and his body at Ludlow, in the tomb of his favourite daughter Ambrosia.” This order was punctually executed; and the leaden urn, containing his heart, was six inches deep, and five inches in diameter at the top, with this inscription carved three times round it:
“Her lith the Harte of Syr Henrye Sydney, L. P. anno Domini, 1586.” For an engraving of this urn, taken from a drawing of Mr. S. Nicholas, see the Gentleman’s Magazine for September, 1794. Another monument to Edward Weston and his wife, kneeling opposite to each other.
In this church is likewise buried Sir John Bridgeman, the last president but one of Ludlow Castle. He was extremely rigid in his office; and one Ralph Gittins, who had probably experienced his severity, composed the following epitaph on him:
“Here lies Sir John Bridgeman, clad in his clay:
God said to the Devil, Sirrah, take him away.”
Should the tourist find time to make any stay at Ludlow, several excursions in the neighbourhood will prove highly gratifying. Oakley Park, the elegant seat of the Dowager Lady Clive, claims the greatest attention; it is situated about two miles from Ludlow, on the banks of the Teme River: just beyond this, a seat of — Walpole, Esq. About five miles distant is Downton Castle, the noble mansion and fine walks of Richard Payne Knight, Esq. one of the representatives in Parliament for the borough of Ludlow. Being necessitated to leave this charming country by a particular day, we had no opportunity of visiting these celebrated and much-admired houses.
With regret we left the delightful situation of Ludlow; and, crossing Lawford’s bridge, we ascended an eminence along a beautiful terrace, commanding a most charming and pleasant country to our left, with the fertile county of Hereford, abounding with orchards, which were all bending with the produce of the year. About two miles from Ludlow, on the right, we paused to admire the delightful seat of Theophilus Richard Solway, Esq. situated on an eminence, and skirted by a rich plantation of wood towards the west: it is called the Lodge. Descending into a bottom, a rich country, studded with farm-houses, soon brought us to the town of
LEOMINSTER,
or Leminster, consisting of one long street. The market-place in the centre, bearing a very old date, and likewise the church, are both deserving of the traveller’s notice. It is situated in a flat, and the country round it is not particularly interesting. From hence a turnpike road, showing to advantage the rich culture of the country, soon brought us within sight of the venerable cathedral of