In spite of all we pushed on through Beit Hanun, Deir Siniid, Mejdel, Mesmeyiah, and Junction Station until about the 24th of November when at Latrun we set foot on the first metalled road we had seen since leaving Kantara. Latrun is about midway between Jaffa and Jerusalem and a few miles to the north-east the road enters the Judean Hills at Bab-el-Wad, and after negotiating two ranges of hills approximately 2,500 feet high it reaches Jerusalem which is set at the top of a third and higher cluster of hills.
The effect of marching on a hard road after months of sand and soft soil was soon felt and our feet and footwear quickly began to show signs of wear. Boots, the leather of which had perished through exposure and lack of grease, were soon worn through and even the oldest and best of soldiers suffered from sore feet. The road itself though labelled “metalled” was not in good condition. The Turk was ever notorious for the bad state in which he kept his communications and this one was no exception to the rule. It had not been repaired since the visit of the Kaiser many years before, and the defects were soon aggravated by the passage of much transport. It was an exhausting climb and it lasted for a long time. The road was bounded on the one side for the most part by a precipice and on the other by the steep hillside, except for a few places where it ran through deep cuttings, and one could speculate on the chances of success of any troops attempting to force such a road against the opposition of a few well-armed British troops and the result of the speculations was distinctly unfavourable to the attackers. Yet the Turk had been hurried from hill to hill with little loss to our troops. As we toiled upwards we momentarily expected to get our first view of the Holy City. We knew definitely by that time that such was our objective and with the words of Holy Writ in our minds—“a city that is set on a hill cannot be hid,” we eagerly awaited the vision. That moment was however denied us for many a day, and it is a matter of conjuncture whether in any of our minds we felt satisfied when that view was obtained. It is rather ironical, but nevertheless a fact, that the first portion of Jerusalem we saw was of German origin—the tall tower of the Kaiser’s palace on the Mount of Olives.
Crown copyright—by permission Imperial War Museum.
ROAD TO JERUSALEM NEAR BAB-EL-WAD.
Crown copyright—by permission Imperial War Museum.
JEBEL KURUNTUL (Mount of Temptation) AND JERICHO.
Occupied by London Troops February 2nd, 1918. The traditional scene of Christ’s Temptation.
To face page 314.
We eventually reached the crest of the first range of hills at Enab, and descending into the valley on the opposite side we entered an area which in comparison with the deadly wastes left miles behind seemed like paradise. The hill sides were pleasantly wooded, the road was good, fuel and water were in abundance and a little monastery was discovered to possess a stock of most excellent wine made from the fruit of the vines for the cultivation of which the hillsides were terraced. We remained near Enab for some days and enjoyed life. One company was unlucky and was sent up to relieve a post of the 75th Division which had been sorely tried in holding what they had gallantly won but the remainder of the Battalion enjoyed a well earned rest. The troops were in great need of it, but the animals were in a much worse condition. Owing to the difficulties of maintaining supplies the transport animals had for nearly a month been on half rations and had done a tremendous amount of very hard work. They were tired and worn and in fact were so hungry that the steady diminution of the size of the tail boards of the limber and the amount of leather harness eaten by the animals caused the transport officer (Lieutenant Pearson) many anxious moments.