F ostat, or Old Cairo, was the next place of interest which we visited. The walls built round it by the Romans were of small squared stones, mixed with tiles, and were about nine feet high. There were two towers, each half a circle in shape, standing out from them, and two other large towers at the principal gate. The gateway was almost buried in sand: still, we could distinguish an eagle on one part of it.
The only entrance it now has is a small gate, too narrow for a carriage to pass through. The streets are really only lanes, and the houses are high. In old times this city was called Egyptian Babylon.
"Is it the same as Babylon the Great?" Hugh asked.
"No. Babylon the Great stood on the River Euphrates, and was the capital of the Babylonian empire."
"Can you tell me anything more about this Babylon in Egypt?"
"Yes, a little. Sir Gardner Wilkinson mentions an early Christian record, sculptured on wood, of the time of Diocletian. It is in the west tower, and we will try and find it. Then the crusaders, under Louis IX. of France, besieged but did not take it. The Sieur de Joinville, who wrote the life of the king, has given an interesting account of the siege. He describes the terror caused in the army when the 'Greek fire' was thrown from the walls. In the middle ages it was a noted place, and a stuff called 'cloth of Baldeck' was manufactured here. It was made of silk and of gold and silver threads, and was ornamented with imitations of trees, flowers, and birds. It was worn and much prized by persons of high rank. Henry III. was, I believe, the first English king who wore cloth of Baudekin or Baldeck, but it was worn in other countries of Europe before his time."
We went to the upper chamber over the west tower of the old gateway, and there saw the record described by Sir Gardner Wilkinson. The upper part with the Greek inscription; below it a symbol of the Deity, a globe supported by two winged angels; and on each side six figures, which Sir Gardner Wilkinson believes to be the twelve apostles. We were very much interested in this Christian record, and wished that we had had some knowledge of who these early Christians were who had left the traces of their assembly in this upper chamber.
OLD GATEWAY.
We next went to see the mosque of Amer. This mosque was built by the Saracen Amer on the spot on which he encamped with his army when he besieged the city and took it. He founded the city of Fostat, which became the capital of Mohammedan Egypt. Four hundred years afterwards the present city of Cairo was built by one of the caliphs. He made it the capital, and called it Masr-el-Kahira, or "the Victorious City." The city built by Amer was then called "Old Cairo."
We were not so much struck by the mosque of Amer as we had been by some other mosques. There are some fine pillars and arches, both pointed and circular. But its chief interest is its great age. There is an old tradition that whenever this mosque falls, the Mohammedan power will fall in Egypt.
From Old Cairo we crossed over to the Island of Roda, to see the Nilometer. It consists of a square well, in the middle of which is a pillar marked in degrees, for measuring the rise of the Nile. There was once a tower over it. At the time when the Nile is rising, the criers come into Cairo every morning to proclaim the height to which it has risen since the previous morning. This overflow of the Nile irrigates the country for a long distance from its banks, and makes them very fruitful.
From the Nilometer we went to see the gardens belonging to Ibrahim Pacha; then to the spot where Moses is said to have been found by Pharaoh's daughter. We could picture the cradle of bulrushes floating on the still waters; the royal princess coming down with maidens to bathe, the anxious Miriam watching with eager eyes to see what would be the fate of her baby-brother. Hugh and Lucy both said that it made the Bible seem much more real to them, now that they were in the very land where so many of God's wonders of old were wrought. We all felt it so, as we looked at the spot where Moses was preserved in his babyhood, while floating in his cradle in the very waters which afterwards at his word, by God's command, were turned into blood.
Our next expedition was to the tombs of the Mameluke kings. We rode through a not very interesting part of Cairo to the "Bab-el-Nasr," or "Gate of Victory."