After this unwilling prostration to the Sheikh, we went on without any further trouble.
A rock in the stream next attracted our attention. It is called the Hagar o' Salam, or Rock of Welfare, because the boatmen say that they cannot venture to call a voyage down the Nile prosperous until they have passed it. We looked at it with interest. It seemed an emblem of our Saviour Jesus Christ; for, till we have come to him, there can be no safety for us in our voyage on the river of life.
Our journey was, after this, a little dull for a time. On both banks of the Nile we saw the sites of various ancient towns; and at Khom Amer, or "the Red Mound," there were some rough grottoes. We also saw the mounds of the ancient Cynopolis, the "City of the Dogs."
The mountain chain of Gebel e' Tayr was more interesting. Some of the mountains rise straight up from the water, and are enlivened with palm-trees; and on the opposite banks we saw some fine acacias. The top of Gebel e' Tayr is flat. On it stands a convent called Sitleh Mariam el Adea, or "Our Lady Mary the Virgin." It is a Copt convent. But I am afraid that religion has little effect there, for there seems to be more begging than industry among the monks. As soon as they see a boat full of travellers coming they hurry down the cliffs and swim out on inflated water-skins to ask for charity. Our Arab boatmen were inclined to treat them rather roughly, and we were heartily glad when we got beyond their beat, for they were very noisy and clamorous in their petitions for alms.
Gebel e' Tayr means "the mountain of the bird." There is a curious legend belonging to it. It is said that all the birds in the country assemble here every year. They choose one of their number who is to stay on the mountain till the next year. Then all the rest fly away and leave the poor solitary bird by himself till the next year, when a fresh one is chosen to take his place.
We have now just arrived at Minieh, six days exactly since we left you all at Boulak. We are going to dinner, and then on shore.
"I want to ask something before you go on, please," said Hugh. "Why was that city called 'the City of the Dogs'?"
"Because the dog was then considered to be a particularly sacred animal. One of the largest repositories of dog mummies is found on the opposite bank. It was not unusual in Egypt for a city to bury its dead, as well as its sacred animals, on the opposite shore of the Nile, especially if a better place could be found there for making catacombs."