The front of the large temple is adorned by four enormous statues. They are seated on thrones. The heads of two are nearly perfect, and so is the face of another. We were very much struck by them. On the arms there is an oval bearing the name of the great Rameses. Over the entrance we saw a large figure with a hawk's head. Mr. Roper told us that it is a figure of the god Re. He pointed out to us the figure of Rameses offering little images of Truth and Justice to the god.
Mohammed had provided torches for us that we might see the inner chambers of the temple. The walls and ceilings were beautifully ornamented with hieroglyphic figures.
These temples must have been very grand when in their beauty, for they are grand even now in their decay. As we walked through them our thoughts went back to the time when Egypt was in her glory, when princes worshipped their gods in these gorgeous temples, and when priests clad in splendid robes offered their sacrifices with all the pomp of grand processions. All have passed away. The temples of the false gods have fallen into ruin. The kings, and those who recorded their victories, are all gone. The giant ruins which are left only serve to show how great has been the decay.
Thus, "the fashion, of this world passeth away, and the glory of man is as the flower of the grass; but the word of the Lord endureth for ever." The throne of our great and glorious God is in heaven; in that holy temple his faithful servants shall worship him through endless ages. It knows no decay and no change.
After passing through several places of interest without stopping, because our time is getting short, we anchored last night at El Kab, and this morning started to see the tombs. They are about twenty minutes' ride from the spot where our boat is moored. In the larger grotto we saw curious coloured pictures of the occupations of the ancient Egyptians. In the first line the peasants are ploughing and sowing. There is a car in the field, which is supposed to show that the master has come out to overlook his workpeople.
There is an inscription in hieroglyphics which was translated by Champollion thus:
"Work, oxen, work, Bushels for you and bushels for your master."
In the second line, the peasants are reaping wheat and barley with a sickle, and pulling the doorà, a kind of corn, up by its roots.
In the third line they are carrying the crops, and oxen are also treading out the ears of the wheat and barley. The doorà was not trodden out. It is represented as being bound in sheaves and carried to the threshing-floor, where the grain was stripped from the stalks with a pronged instrument.