Swinging more directly westward, our road now skirts the base of El Capitan, the Tote-ack-ah-noo-la or "rock chief" of the Indians. The image of their fanciful chief is to this day pointed out on the wall two thousand feet overhead, but he is now called "The Wandering Jew." In a shallow niche 1189 feet above the road stands a hardy Jeffrey pine 82.4 feet high and two feet in diameter. For half a mile we pass thru El Capitan Meadows, where once were the Indian villages of Yu-a´-chah, Ha-eng´-ah, He-le´-jah and Aw´-o-koi-e. At certain times during the day the Cathedral Spires and Cathedral Rocks on the opposite side of the valley stand out in remarkable perspective, but under general light conditions this stereoscopic effect is entirely lacking.
Beyond El Capitan the Ribbon Fall may be seen, its dainty streamer gracefully descending into the rather harsh box-like recess in the canyon wall. Its Indian name was Lung-o-to-ko-ya, or "pigeon falls." A cross road to the left passes El Capitan Checking Station and crosses El Capitan Bridge to the Bridalveil Road south of the Merced (Road Trips I-A and VI-A). A few steps further along our route the Big Oak Flat Road turns to the right and ascends thru the shattered granite talus of the north canyon side. At this junction was the old Indian village of Hep-hep'-oo-ma.
Paralleling the Merced, we now and then are treated to glimpses of Bridalveil Fall dropping gracefully from its hanging valley and guarded at the left by Cathedral Rocks and at the right by the Leaning Tower. Where our route traverses a small meadow is the site of another vanished village, We'-tum-taw. A short distance beyond is Black Spring, which is but a few steps to the right of the road. The Yosemites called it Poot-poo-toon, and among the rocks surrounding it was a small community of the same name. Our road now bends gradually southward following the banks of the Merced. Across the stream is Bridalveil Meadow and an especially fine view of the Gates of the Valley. A short distance further is Pohono Bridge, where our road is joined by the Bridalveil Road (Road Trips I-A and VI-A) from the south side of the valley.
About a quarter of a mile westward is the old Mail Carrier's Cabin, the site of the ancient village of Ah-wah'-ma. Across the canyon the rugged ramparts of the south rim rise imposingly above and Meadow Brook pours over the edge to leap 1170 feet as Widow's Tears Fall. A small dam in the Merced diverts water for the intake of the two thousand-watt generators of the new government power house just below the road. South of the river is a grotesque promontory which is well named Pulpit Rock.
At the two small bridges about one and a half miles further down the canyon we pass the foot of Cascade Falls which, during the flood waters of early spring, is one of the most attractive scenic features of the El Portal Highway. From these bridges is also the best view of Elephant Rock, down the canyon. Less than a quarter of a mile further, Wildcat Falls pour over the cliff at the right. A short distance beyond, stage drivers often point out the image of a white Persian cat on the wall above the road. The old Coulterville Road now branches to the right and steeply ascends the canyon wall. This was the first road into Yosemite and was completed in 1874. Just below Elephant Rock is Battleship Harbor, a placid reach of the Merced in which fancied granite dreadnaughts ride anchor.
A little more than a mile further down the canyon Grouse Creek tumbles over the south wall in a series of cascades. We now pass beneath Arch Rock, a natural tunnel formed by two huge granite talus blocks. The trail bridge across the Merced, a short distance westward, is the crossing of the Sunset Trail, which passes the mid-winter ranger station opposite and ascends past the foot of Avalanche Falls to the Wawona Road, 2500 feet above.
Two miles further down the canyon we pass out of the park and into the Stanislaus National Forest thru a region of gnarled oaks and silver-gray digger pines. During the early season Indian Creek, across the canyon, forms the picturesque Chinquapin Falls.
One mile below the park line is El Portal, the terminus of the Yosemite Valley Railroad. There is here a hotel and a small store. On the opposite slope is the incline of the Yosemite Lumber Company down which flat cars loaded with logs are lowered. From El Portal a four-hour ride by railroad takes us to Merced.
ROAD TRIP VI-A