If one were so time-poor as to have but one day in Yosemite, he should by all means climb to Glacier Point via Vernal and Nevada Falls and return via the Short Trail. This most scenic trip is easily made afoot in one day and should be taken as follows rather than in the opposite direction because (a) one faces the falls in ascending, and (b) the gradual ascent is less tiring. Early in the season it is a good plan to carry a sack or newspaper for protection while passing thru the mist of Vernal Falls.
The Vernal and Nevada Falls Trail starts near Happy Isles Bridge, 2.3 miles from Yosemite Village. The trail leaves the road at the right just beyond the bridge, or we may take the footpath through Happy Isles, crossing the river on a foot-log and joining the main trail a quarter mile above. Ascending the canyon, the trail climbs 200 feet above the roaring Merced, which was here called by the Indians the "Yanopah" or "water cloud," referring to the mist of Vernal Falls. A quarter of a mile from the bridge is a fine spring. Here the Sierra Point Trail (Trail Trip 12) turns left. Rounding the base of Grizzly Peak we pass opposite the mouth of Illilouette Canyon and see Illilouette Falls (Drop 350 feet) at its head. The name is a corruption of the Indian name, Too-tool-a-we-ack. The small dam in the river below diverts water to the Happy Isles Power House. To the left of Illilouette Canyon is Panorama Cliff, along the rim of which our trail runs after a three-hour climb by the Mist Trail (one hour longer by horse trail).
Descending 100 feet the trail crosses Vernal Bridge, from which is a fine view of Vernal Falls, a half mile distant. Near this point was the old Indian Camp of Ap´-poo-meh. Straight ahead the horse trail climbs 1600 feet and then descends to the top of Vernal Falls. Pedestrians should take the much more scenic Mist Trail, which turns left just beyond the bridge, saving thereby one hour and several hundred feet climb. Paralleling the river we pass Lady Franklin Rock, from whence may be obtained excellent photographs of Vernal Falls. The trail mounts thru the boulder-strewn forest and finally rounds a rocky point on a narrow ledge. Use extreme caution on slippery wet rocks! We now enter the mist, traversing the luxuriant garden of flowers and grasses which gives the fall its name. Between 10 and 12 a.m. beautiful circular rainbows may be seen in the mist. Climbing the steep slope at the right we obtain fine profiles of the fall. The trail then swings beneath an overhanging cliff and mounts a steep narrow ledge to the top of Vernal Falls (Alt. 5049, Drop 317 feet). The Indians called the fall "Yan-o-pah," or "water cloud," which was also the name for the canyon below. Over the rim of the natural granite parapet we have an excellent outlook down the canyon. By climbing along the rim southeast of the falls we find a ladder and hanging trail descending to a grotto, from which a good view of Glacier Point is obtained.
Above Vernal Falls we pass a glacial tarn called Emerald Pool, at the upper end of which the Merced rushes down over smooth granite, forming the beautiful Silver Apron and Waterwheel.
Just above is the Diamond Cascade and bridge. Our trail now joins the horse trail, which descends from the slope above. Crossing the river at Diamond Cascade, the trail ascends to Snow Flat below Liberty Cap (Alt. 7072), which towers above to the left. This granite dome, the Mah'-ta, or "Martyr Mountain" of the Indians, can be ascended by a difficult climb up its eastern flank. Good rock-climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and Mt. Broderick (Alt. 6705) just northward. At the left of the trail is the site of the old La Casa Nevada Hotel (The Snow House), which was built in the early days and burned down in 1897. The old register is in the Yosemite Museum. The rockslide to the left fell from the face of Liberty Cap in 1918. Fishing is fair from Diamond Cascade to Nevada Falls. The trail turns left and mounts 500 feet by the famous Nevada Falls Zigzags. When white men first visited Yosemite, part of the Merced descended in a cascade where the trail is now built. At the top of the switchbacks the trail to Little Yosemite, Clouds Rest, Tuolumne Meadows and Merced Lake (Trail Trips 13, 5, 8 and 7) continues up the canyon. There is here a government telephone (Central 1 ring). The new location of a refreshment stand and rest house in the vicinity is indicated by a sign.
Our trail turns right and crosses a small bridge, thence turning southwest to the top of Nevada Falls (Alt. 5910, Height 594 ft.). Nevada is "snow" in Spanish and replaces the old Indian name Yo-wy-we. Note especially the shooting spray rockets. These are most wonderful when painted by first rays of sunshine at 7.30 to 8 a.m. Many claim that, looking down from the rim, the Nevada is the valley's most fascinating and beautiful fall. Above this point the river was called by the Yosemite Tribe "Yo-wy-we-ack," or the "twisting rock" branch.
Crossing the river just above the falls, the trail climbs abruptly 700 feet by switchbacks. At the summit the Mono Meadow and Merced Pass Trail up Illilouette Creek turns left (Trail Trip 23). Our trail turns right and follows the rim of Panorama Cliff almost level for about one mile to Panorama Point (Alt. 6224). From here is a fine view of Royal Arches, Washington Column and North Dome across the head of Yosemite Valley, and of Half Dome and Grizzly Peak to the right. The trail descends 400 feet to the top of Illilouette Falls (Alt. 5850, Fall 370 ft.). Good fishing is reported in upper Illilouette Creek. Exploration up this canyon will well repay those interested in glacial phenomena.
Climbing out of the Illilouette Canyon, the trail runs north thru open forest. The fallen trees and prostrate bushes are caused by snow-slides from Illilouette Ridge above (Alt. 8250. Fine view from summit). As the trail climbs, the view of Mt. Starr King, Mt. Clark and the High Sierra gradually unfolds. The trail joining from the south leads to Buena Vista Lake and Royal Arch Lake (Trail Trip 22). From one point in the ascent is an especially good profile of Half Dome across the canyon. Following along granite ledges the trail passes Glacier Point Hotel (Alt. 7200), from which is a most comprehensive panorama of the High Sierra. Accommodations are excellent and one should remain here over night if possible to see the sunrise. Glacier Point and the overhanging rock are about 200 yards beyond the hotel. This lookout point was called Patill'ima by the Yosemite Tribe. From here we obtain what is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring view readily accessible to tourists. The valley floor is 3250 feet below. An inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. For trips from Glacier Point see Trail Trips 16 to 23.
The descent from Glacier Point to Yosemite is generally made by the Short Trail (5 miles, 1½ hour walk). From the hotel the trail follows westward along the canyon wall. Rounding a point we get an excellent profile view of the Gates of the Valley with Sentinel Rock at the left and El Capitan at the right. Descending 900 feet by switchbacks thru a forest of fir, sugar pine, yellow pine, Douglas fir and incense cedar, we reach Union Point (Alt. 6314—2350 feet above the valley floor). There is here a refreshment stand where cooling drinks and light lunches may be obtained. A short distance from the point is a shelter cabin and a government telephone (Central 1 ring).
Descending past Agassiz Column, a huge balancing shaft of granite, the trail zigzags down the mountain side, emerging at several vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of Half Dome and the north end of the valley. The character of the forest now changes, oaks and laurel entering to replace the diminishing fir. The trail terminates at the foot of Sentinel Rock at the site of the old Camp Awahnee and the more ancient Indian village of Loi'-ah. Yosemite is 1.3 miles distant by road to the right. During the season a regular auto-bus service is maintained between this and other valley points.