YOSEMITE TO NORTH DOME via YOSEMITE FALLS AND RETURN via MIRROR LAKE
Reverse of Trail Trip 4
(19.5 miles—10 hours)
The North Dome trip is a strenuous one-day climb and should be taken as follows rather than Trail Trip 4, thus avoiding the hot ascent of the Mirror Lake zigzags. One should start early, reaching the top of the falls before the heat becomes excessive.
The Yosemite Falls Trail was built in the early days and operated as a toll trail. It leaves the road a short distance west of Yosemite Lodge. In the first mile we ascend by sharp zigzags thru a shady grove of golden oak and laurel, emerging above into the open and climbing granite ledges to Columbia Point (Alt. 5031). From here is a splendid view, especially of the upper end of the valley. Turning north, the trail ascends a few feet and then follows along a granite ledge beautifully shaded by oaks, laurel, Douglas fir and pines. At the left of the trail about a quarter of a mile above Columbia Point is a spring. A short, rather steep descent takes us to Valley View, a lookout point a short distance to the right of the trail, from which is an excellent view of the valley and the Upper Yosemite Fall. Skirting the base of an almost perpendicular cliff at the left, the trail approaches the foot of the upper fall and bears to the left. From this point it is possible to leave the trail and climb to the foot of the upper fall, entering the cave under its base except during high water. The climb is dangerous because of slippery rocks.
By switchbacks the trail ascends the steep slope west of the falls, crossing a small stream after a quarter-mile climb. During the hour ascent of the zigzags, Mount Clark (Alt. 11,506), Gray Peak (Alt. 11,581) and other High Sierra summits may be seen to the southeast. Across the canyon are Glacier Point and Sentinel Dome. At a trail junction 100 feet beyond the canyon rim is a government telephone (Central 1 ring). Here the Eagle Peak and Yosemite Creek Trails continue straight ahead (Trail Trips 9, 10 and 11). Our trail turns to the right and crosses a small stream. Just beyond, the main trail passes over a low rise. A branch to the left follows south along the open ridge for a short distance to the top of the falls. From the railed lookout point, peering into the chasm below we see what Muir describes as one of the most impressive phenomena of the valley. Retracing our route to the main trail and turning left, we cross Yosemite Creek and climb 300 feet on the further side, thence turning southward. A short trail to the rim takes us to Yosemite Point (Alt. 6935), from which is a vast view of the valley and the High Sierra. The granite spire at the right and just below is "Le Hammo," the Lost Arrow of one of the most beautiful Yosemite Indian legends.
Returning to the main trail we climb parallel to the eastern rim of the cliff. To the right are Castle Cliffs and the flat summit of North Dome beyond. After a climb of 400 feet the trail crosses a ridge and traverses a dense forest of fir and pine, descending 400 feet and crossing Indian Creek. Directly south is Indian Canyon, called by the Yosemite Tribe "Le Hamite," because of the arrowwood which grew there. Their main trail into Yosemite followed along the precipitous east side of the canyon.
The Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek is crossed a half mile beyond the main stream, and here the Snow Flat Trail continues upstream. Turning to the right, our trail passes thru a fir forest about one mile to Indian Ridge, which it follows south over disintegrating granite and thru stunted forest to the rounded summit of North Dome (Alt. 7531). The view is most comprehensive and the sheer vertical wall of Half Dome gives an impression of massiveness nowhere else obtained. To the north of the trail near the summit is Slipper Rock.
In returning to Yosemite we take all main trails to the right. Retracing our path up Indian Ridge it is possible to follow the trail back to the East or Little Winkle Fork of Indian Creek, and turn right on the Snow Flat Trail, but the better and the shorter way is to follow the plain blazes which turn to the right about a half mile from the North Dome summit and just west of the crest of Indian Ridge. Running thru a beautiful forest this trail joins the main Snow Flat Trail at the Little Winkle Branch of Indian Creek just west of Indian Rock.
It is also possible to leave the trail and follow up Indian Ridge from North Dome, gradually bearing to the right of Indian Rock and intersecting the main Mirror Lake Trail near the top of the zigzags.