[2] Malobathrum, malobatrum, malabathrum—leaves of an Indian tree, wild cinnamon.
XVII
[33] WINE SAUCE FOR TRUFFLES ŒNOGARUM [1] IN TUBERA
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, RUE, BROTH, HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL.
ANOTHER WAY: THYME, SATURY, PEPPER, LOVAGE, HONEY, BROTH AND OIL.
[1] Also Elæogarum.
V. Directions wanting whether the above ingredients are to be added to the already prepared [garum], which see in dictionary. Gollmer gives the following direction for garum: Boil a sextarium of anchovies and 3 sextarii of good wine until it is thick purée. Strain this through a hair sieve and keep it in glass flask for future use. This formula, according to Goll. should have followed our No. [9]; but we find no authority for it in the original.
Oenogarum proper would be a garum prepared with wine, but in this instance it is the broth in which the truffles were cooked that is to be flavored with the above ingredients. There is no need and no mention of garum proper. Thus prepared it might turn out to be a sensible sauce for truffles in the hands of a good practitioner.
Note the etymology of the word “garum,” now serving as a generic name for “sauce” which originally stood for a compound of the fish garus.