CHAPTER VIII

BRADDOCK’S ROAD IN HISTORY

The narrow swath of a road cut through the darkling Alleghenies by General Braddock has been worth all it cost in time and treasure. Throughout the latter half of the eighteenth century it was one of the main thoroughfares into the Ohio valley, and when, at the dawning of the nineteenth, the United States built our first and greatest public highway, the general alignment of Braddock’s Road between Cumberland and the last range of the Alleghenies—Laurel Hill—was the course pursued. In certain localities this famed national boulevard, the Cumberland Road, was built upon the very bed of Braddock’s road, as Braddock’s road had been built partly upon the early Washington’s Road which followed the path of Indian, buffalo, and mound-building aborigines. Nowhere in America can the evolution of road-building be studied to such advantage as between Cumberland, Maryland and Uniontown, Pennsylvania.

For some years after Braddock’s defeat his route to and fro between the Monongahela and Potomac was used only by scouting parties of whites and marauding Indians, and many were the swift encounters that took place upon its overgrown narrow track. In 1758 General Forbes built a new road westward from Carlisle, Pennsylvania rather than follow Braddock’s ill-starred track, for reasons described in another volume of the present series.[52] Forbes frightened the French forever from the “Forks of the Ohio” and erected Fort Pitt on the ruins of the old Fort Duquesne. In 1763 Colonel Bouquet led a second army across the Alleghenies, on Forbes’s Road, relieved Fort Pitt and put an end to Pontiac’s Rebellion. By the time of Forbes’s expedition Braddock’s Road was somewhat filled with undergrowth, and was not cut at all through the last and most important eight miles of the course to Fort Duquesne. Forbes had some plans of using this route, “if only as a blind,” but finally his whole force proceeded over a new road. However, certain portions of Braddock’s Road had been cleared early in the campaign when Forbes thought it would be as well to have “two Strings to one Bow.” It was not in bad condition.[53]

This new northern route, through Lancaster, Carlisle, Bedford (Reastown), and Ligonier, Pennsylvania, became as important, if not more so, than Braddock’s course from Cumberland to Braddock, Pennsylvania. As the years passed Braddock’s Road seems to have regained something of its early prestige, and throughout the Revolutionary period it was perhaps of equal consequence with any route toward the Ohio, especially because of Virginia’s interest in and jealousy of the territory about Pittsburg. When, shortly after the close of the Revolution, the great flood of immigration swept westward, the current was divided into three streams near the Potomac; one went southward over the Virginian route through Cumberland Gap to Kentucky; the other two burst over Forbes’s and Braddock’s Roads. Some pictures of the latter are vividly presented in early records of pilgrims who chose its rough path to gain the El Dorado beyond the Appalachian mountain barriers.

William Brown, an emigrant to Kentucky from Hanover, Virginia, over Braddock’s Road in 1790 has left a valuable itinerary of his journey, together with interesting notes, entitled Observances and Occurrences. The itinerary is as follows:

MILES
To Hanover Court House,16
To Edmund Taylor’s,16
To Parson Todd’s, Louisa,20
To Widow Nelson’s,20
To Brock’s Bridge, Orange Co.,9
To Garnet’s Mill,5
To Bost. Ord’y, near Hind’s House,7
To Raccoon Ford, on Rapidan or Porters,6
To Culpepper Co.-House,10
To Pendleton’s Ford, on Rappahannock,10
To Douglass’s Tavern, or Wickliffe’s House,13
To Chester’s Gap, Blue Ridge,8
To Lehu Town,3
To Ford of Shenandore River, Frederick,2
To Stevensburg,10
To Brown’s Mill,2
To Winchester,6
To Gasper Rinker’s,11
To Widow Lewis’s, Hampshire,11
To Crock’s Tav.,9
To Reynold’s, on the So. Branch Potowmack,13
To Frankford Town,8
To Haldeman’s Mills,4
To North Branch, Potomack,3
To Gwyn’s Tav., at the Fork of Braddock’s old road, Alleghany Co., Maryland,3
To Clark’s Store,6
To Little Shades of Death,12
To Tumblestone Tav., or the Little Meadows,3
To Big Shades of Death,2
To Mountain Tav., or White Oak Springs,2
To Simpson’s Tav., Fayette Co., Pennsylvania,6
To Big Crossing of Yoh,9
To Carrol’s Tavern,12
To Laurel Hill,6
To Beason Town,6
To Redstone, Old Fort,12
To Washington Town, Washington Co., Penn.,23
To Wheeling, Old Fort, Ohio Co., Vir.,35
——
359[54]

Mr. Brown’s notes of the journey over the mountains are:

“Set out from Hanover Friday 6th August 1790 arrived at Redstone Old Fort about the 25th Inst. The road is pretty good until you get to the Widow Nelson’s, then it begins to be hilly and continues generally so till you get to the Blue Ridge—pretty well watered. Racoon ford on Rapidan is rather bad. The little mountains are frequently in view After you pass Widow Nelson’s. Pendleton’s ford on Rappahanock is pretty good. In going over Chester gap you ride about 5 miles among the mountains before you get clear, a good many fine springs in the Mo. between the Blue Ridge and the Alleghany Mo. appears to be a fine country, altho the land is pretty much broken. At Shenandore ford there is two branches of the river to cross and it is bad fording. But there is a ferry a little below the ford. There is a very cool stream of water about 14 miles below Winchester. This is a well watered country but springs are rather scarce on the road, at Winchester there are several fine springs. The South branch of Potowmack has a good ford, also the North branch. Soon after you pass Gwyns Tavern in Maryland you enter upon the Alleghany Mo. and then you have a great deal of bad road, many ridges of Mo.—the Winding Ridge—Savage, Negro, etc. and Laurel Hill which is the last, but before you get to the Mount, there is some stony bad road between the Widow Lewis’ and the Mo. after you pass Clark’s store in the Mo. you get into a valley of very pretty oak land. In many places while you are in the Mo. there is very good road between the ridges. Just before you get to the Little Shades of Death there is a tract of the tallest pines I ever saw. The Shades of Death are dreary looking valleys, growing up with tall cypress and other trees and has a dark gloomy appearance. Tumblestones, or the Little Meadows is a fine plantation with beautiful meadow ground. Crossing of Yoh, is a pretty good ford. There is some very bad road about here. It is said Gen Braddock was buried about 8 miles forward from this, near a little brook that crosses the road. Laurel hill is the highest ridge of the Mo. When you get to the top of it to look forward toward Redstone there is a beautiful prospect of the country below the Mo. You see at one view a number of plantations and Beason Town which is six miles off.”[55]

With the growth of Cumberland and the improvement of navigation of the upper Potomac, and especially the building of the canal beside it, the importance of the Braddock route across the mountains was realized by the state of Maryland and the legislature passed laws with reference to straightening and improving it as early as 1795; acts of a similar nature were also passed in 1798 and 1802.[56]