When one reflects upon the enormous denudation of this region, to which more special reference will be made in the sequel, one is not surprised that many connecting links should have been effaced. The astonishment rather arises that so continuous a story can still be deciphered. Even, however, had the original record been left complete, it would have been exceedingly difficult to trace the successive mutations of a river-channel during long ages of volcanic eruptions. Such a channel would have been concealed from view by each lava-stream that poured into it, and would not have been again exposed save by the very process of erosion that destroys while it reveals.
While, therefore, there is not and can never be any positive proof that in the fluviatile records of Canna, Sanday and Eigg successive phases are registered in the history of one single stream, I believe that this identity is highly probable. It was a river which seems to have risen among the mountains of Western Inverness-shire, and it had doubtless already taken its course to the sea before any volcanic eruptions began. It continued to flow westwards across the lava-floor that gradually spread over the plains. Its channel was constantly being filled up by fresh streams of basalt or deflected by the uprise of new cinder-cones. But, fed by the Atlantic rains, it maintained its seaward flow until the general subsidence which carried so much of the volcanic plain below the sea. Yet the higher part of this ancient water-course is no doubt unsubmerged, still traversing the schists of the Western Highlands as it has done since older Tertiary time. It may, perhaps, be recognized in one of the glens which carry seaward the drainage of the districts of Morar, Arisaig, or Moidart.
Fig. 280.—View of the Scuir of Eigg from the South.
Let us now turn to the remarkable lava which has sealed up the river-channel of Eigg, and of which the remaining fragment stands up as the great ridge of the Scuir. This rock presents characters that strongly distinguish it from the surrounding basalts. It is not one single uniform mass, but consists of a number of distinct varieties, some of which are a volcanic glass, while others are a grey "porphyry," or devitrified pitchstone. These are arranged in somewhat irregular, but well-marked, and, in a general sense, horizontal sheets. On the great eastern terminal gable of the Scuir this bedded structure is not clearly displayed, for the cliff seems there to be built up of one homogeneous mass, save a markedly columnar band that runs obliquely up the base of the precipice ([Fig. 278]). If, however, the ridge is looked at from the south, the truly bedded character of its materials becomes a conspicuous feature. Along the cliffs on that side the two varieties of rock are strongly distinguished by their contrasting colour and mode of weathering, the sombre-hued pitchstone standing up in a huge precipice striped with columns, and barred horizontally with bands of the pale-grey "porphyry," which, from its greater proneness to decay, seems sunk into the face of the cliff. At the south-east end of the ridge the bedding is especially distinct. West of the precipices, to the south of the Loch a' Bhealaich, the dark pitchstone which forms the main mass is divided by two long parallel intercalations of grey rock, and two other short lenticular seams of the same material (see Figs. [280], [281]). It is clear from these features, which are not seen by most travellers who pass Eigg in the tourist-steamer that the Scuir is in no sense of the word a dyke.
But although the Scuir is thus a bedded mass, the bedding is far different from the regularity and parallelism of that which obtains among the bedded basalt-rocks below. Even where no intervening "porphyry" occurs, the pitchstone can be recognized as made up of many beds, each marked by the different angle at which its columns lie. And when the "porphyry" does occur and forms so striking a division in the pitchstone, its beds die out rapidly, appearing now on one horizon, now on another, along the face of the cliffs, and thickening and thinning abruptly in short distances along the line of the same bed. Perhaps the best place for examining these features is at the Bhealaich, the only gully practicable for ascent or descent, at the south-eastern face of the ridge.
Fig. 281.—View of the Scuir of Eigg from the South-west of the Loch a' Bhealaich, showing the bedded character of the mass.
By much the larger part of the mass of the Scuir consists of vitreous material. As a rule this rock is columnar, the columns being much slimmer and shorter than those of the basalt-rocks. They rise sometimes vertically, and often obliquely, or project even horizontally from the face of the cliff. They are seldom quite straight, but have a wavy outline; and when grouped in knolls here and there along the top of the ridge they remind one of gigantic bunches of some of the Palæozoic corals, such as Lithostrotion. In other cases they slope out from a common centre, and show an arrangement not very unlike that of a Highland peat-stack.
The pitchstone of the Scuir differs considerably in petrographical character from other pitchstones of the island which occur in dykes and veins. Its base is of a velvet-black colour, and is so much less vitreous in aspect than ordinary pitchstone as to have been described by Jameson and later writers as intermediate between pitchstone and basalt.[254] A chemical analysis of the rock by Mr. Barker North,[255] gave the following composition:—