Fig. 285.—Intercalated group of strata between Basalts, An Ceannaich, western side of Skye.

Though good coal is not well developed in the Tertiary volcanic plateaux of the British Isles, it has already been pointed out that coaly layers are abundant, and that as the vegetable matter may confidently be assumed always to indicate terrestrial vegetation, the presence of the carbonaceous bands may be regarded as good evidence of some lapse of time between the eruption of the basalts which they separate. I have also called attention to the fact that the vegetable material is more especially observable in the highest parts of a group of intercalated sediments between two sheets of basalt. This relation, so strikingly exhibited in the isle of Canna, as already observed, is also to be remarked in the Skye plateau. I may here cite an interesting example which occurs at the base of the lofty sea-cliff of An Ceannaich, to the south of Dunvegan Head, on the west coast of Skye ([Fig. 285]). At the base of the precipice, ledges of a highly cellular basalt (a) show a singularly scoriaceous and amygdaloidal structure, with abundant and beautiful zeolites, the hollows of the upper surface of the sheet being filled in with dark brown carbonaceous shale, forming a layer from one to fourteen inches thick, marked by coaly streaks and lenticles (b). A band of green and yellow sandstone (c) next supervenes, which, from its pale colour, attracts attention from a distance, and led me, while yachting along the coast, to land at the locality in the hope that it might prove to be a plant-bearing limestone. This sandy stratum is only some three or four inches thick at the north end of the section, but increases rapidly southward to a thickness of as many feet or more, when, owing to the cessation of the underlying shale, it comes to lie directly on the amygdaloid and to enclose slaggy portions of that rock. Immediately above the sandstone two or three feet of fissile shale, black with plant-remains (d), include brown layers that yield to the knife like some oil-shales. The next stratum is a seam of coal (e) about a foot thick, of remarkable purity. It is glossy, hard, and cubical, including layers that break like jet. It has been succeeded by a deposit of green sand (f), but while this material was in course of deposition another outpouring of lava (g) took place, whereby the terrestrial pool or hollow of the lava-field, in which the group of sedimentary materials accumulated, was filled up and buried. This lava is about 20 feet thick, and consists of a coarsely-crystalline, jointed dolerite with highly amygdaloidal upper and under surface. Its slaggy bottom has caught up or pushed aside the layer of green sand, so as to lie directly on the coal, and has there been converted into the earthy modification so familiar under the name of "white trap" among our coal-fields. It is interesting to find that this kind of alteration, where molten rock comes in contact with carbonaceous materials, is not confined to subterranean sills, but may show itself in lavas that have flowed over a terrestrial surface.

From the frequent intercalation of such local deposits of sedimentary material between the basalts, we may reasonably infer that during older Tertiary time the rainfall in North-Western Europe was copious enough to supply many little lakes and streams of water. As the surface of the lava-fields decayed into soil, vegetation spread over it, so that, perhaps for long intervals, some tracts remained green and forest-clad. But volcanic action still continued to show itself, now from one vent, now from another. These wooded tracts were buried under overflows of lava, and, the water-courses being filled up, their streams were driven into new channels, and other pools and lakes were formed.

Fig. 286.—Escarpment of Plateau-basalts, Cliffs of Talisker, Skye.

In no part of the Tertiary volcanic area of Britain can the characters of the lavas and the structure of the plateaux be better seen than along the west side of Skye, north of Loch Bracadale. The precipices rise sheer out of the sea, to heights of sometimes 1000 feet, and from base to summit every individual bed may be counted. Some particulars have already been given ([p. 192]) regarding the average thickness of the basalt-sheets on this coast-line. The general aspect of these cliffs and the arrangement of their component lavas is shown in [Fig. 286]. As a further detailed illustration of the general succession of the basalts in the Skye plateau, I give a diagrammatic view of the largest of Macleod's Maidens—the three weird sea-stalks that rise so grandly in front of the storm-swept precipice at the mouth of Loch Bracadale. The height of the stack must be at least 150 feet (Figs. [284] and [287]). About ten distinct sheets of igneous rock can be counted in it, which gives an average thickness of 15 feet for the individual beds. It will be observed that there is a kind of alternation between the compact, prismatic basalts and the more earthy amygdaloids, but that the former are generally thickest.[264]

[264] A striking and illustrative contrast between the relative thickness of the beds of the two kinds of rock is supplied by the fine sections of this district. The amygdaloids range from perhaps 6 or 8 to 25 or 30 feet; but the prismatic basalts, while never so thin as the others, sometimes enormously exceed them in bulk. In the island of Wiay, for example, a bed of compact black basalt, with the confused starch-like grouping of columns, reaches a thickness of no less than 170 feet. Its bottom rests upon a red parting on the top of a dull greenish earthy amygdaloid. It is possible, however, that some of these columnar sheets of basalt are really sills.

Fig. 287.—Section of the largest of Macleod's Maidens.