The world has changed since this book was written, but I hope that the record of an expedition made in the happy days before the war may still be read with pleasure, now that the great shadow is in part removed. I have been over the manuscript again and made a few alterations here and there, but have altered nothing that shows it to have been written five years ago.

Burley, Hants, August, 1919.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
I. Hills and Olives[1]
II.Flowers and Scents[18]
III.In Old Provence[31]
IV.Draguignan and Saint-Maximin[48]
V.The Church of Saint-Maximin[68]
VI.Caius Marius and the Great Battle[85]
VII.Aix[97]
VIII.Salon and the Crau[116]
IX.Les Baux[127]
X.Les Baux (Continued)[143]
XI.Mistral[158]
XII.Saint-Remy[168]
XIII.Avignon[175]
XIV.The Palace of the Popes[190]
XV.Vaucluse[209]
XVI.Nimes and the Pont du Gard[227]
XVII.Aigues-Mortes and the Camargue[239]
XVIII.Saintes-Maries de la Mer[252]
XIX.Saint-Gilles and Montmajour[266]
XX.The Last Walk. St. Michel de Frigolet[282]
XXI.Villeneuve-sur-Avignon[301]
XXII.Arles[311]

ILLUSTRATIONS

Evening among the olives[Frontispiece]
FACING
PAGE
The road downhill "looks just like a temperature chart"[10]
I "posed" him among the ruins[11]
A Provençal shepherd[44]
Fayence could be seen on its own hillside[44]
How they prune the plane-trees[45]
The dolmen near Draguignan[45]
Altar of the Crucifixion, Saint-Maximin[74]
The Field of the Great Battle, with Mount Olympus in the background[75]
The Canterbury Tapestry[106]
The famous "Tarasque"[107]
Le Buisson Ardent[110]
Porte d'Eyguières[111]
The Castle Ruins, Les Baux[130]
The Castle Dovecot, Les Baux[131]
Pavillon de la Reine Jeanne[140]
Huguenot Chapel in Les Baux[141]
Les Baux from the Castle Ruins[150]
One of the beauties of Les Baux[151]
Mistral's birthplace, Mas du Juge[160]
Fresco in the Palace of the Popes at Avignon[161]
The Mausoleum, Saint-Remy[170]
The Triumphal Arch, Saint-Remy[171]
Sixteenth century doors and Virgin and Child of Eighteenth Century, St. Pierre, Avignon[182]
The Pont Benezet[183]
The Cathedral, Avignon[194]
"The Popes' Palace is most like those almost brutally strong buildings that the Romans left" [195]
The "fountain," Vaucluse[212]
The caves above the "fountain"[213]
The Pont du Gard[228]
The Fountains, Nîmes[229]
The Maison Carrée[234]
The Amphitheatre, Nîmes[235]
Aigues-Mortes, the Ramparts[244]
"Looked away to the desolate salt marshes"[245]
Saintes-Maries, the Fortress Church[256]
Saint-Gilles, the Central Porch[257]
The Maison-Romaine[276]
The staircase in the farmyard at Montmajour[277]
Saint-Michel de Frigolet[284]
The Coronation of the Virgin, Villeneuve-Sur-Avignon[285]
A courtyard in Villeneuve[308]
The Rotunda at Villeneuve[309]
The Arena at Arles[312]
The Greek Theatre, Arles[313]
The Cloisters, South walk, St. Trophime[316]
The Cloisters, North walk, St. Trophime[317]
Arles, the Alyscamps[320]
Boy's head in marble, Musée Lapidaire, Arles[321]