"We can follow M. Vambéry's footsteps in Asia with pride and pleasure; we welcome every word he has to tell us about the ethnography and the languages of the East."—Academy.

"The character and temperament of the writer come out well in his quaint and vigorous style.... The expressions, too, in English, of modes of thought and reflections cast in a different mould from our own gives additional piquancy to the composition, and, indeed, almost seems to bring out unexpected capacities in the language."—Athenæum.

"Has all the fascination of a lively romance. It is the confession of an uncommon man; an intensely clever, extraordinarily energetic egotist, well-informed, persuaded that he is in the right and impatient of contradiction."—Daily Telegraph.

"The work is written in a most captivating manner, and illustrates the qualities that should be possessed by the explorer."—Novoe Vremya, Moscow.

"We are glad to see a popular edition of a book which, however it be regarded, must be pronounced unique. The writer, the adventures, and the style are all extraordinary—the last not the least of the three. It is flowing and natural—a far better style than is written by the majority of English travellers."—St. James's Gazette.

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CONTENTS.

PAGE
Prefatory Note[xiii]
Introductory Chapter[xv]
I.
EARLY YEARS.
Tutor and Waiter—Vacation Rambles—Literary Studies—LinguisticStudies[1]
II.
THE FIRST JOURNEY.
At Galacz—A Storm at Sea—Penniless in Pera—A Teacher ofLanguages—Teaching a Turk—Hussein Daim Pasha—AhmedEffendi[15]
III.
LIFE IN STAMBUL.
My First Book—Seeking for an Ancient Dialect—My Friends'Opinion of my Journey—"Reshid Effendi"[34]
IV.
FROM TREBIZOND TO ERZERUM.
At Trebizond—On the road to Erzerum[42]
V.
FROM ERZERUM TO THE PERSIAN FRONTIER.
The Frontier of Kurdistan—Attacked by Robbers—Tales of Robbers—AnOld Friend[47]
VI.
FROM THE PERSIAN BORDER TO TEBRIZ.
On Persian Soil—The Bazaar at Khoy—The Seids[56]
VII.
IN TEBRIZ
Study of the Shi-ite Sect—Holy Water—An Old Acquaintance—ARoyal Investiture—An Overworked Embassy[64]
VIII.
IN ZENDJAN.
A Persian Medico—A Persian Miracle-Play—Tragedy appreciated[77]
IX.
FROM KAZVIN TO TEHERAN.
The Atoning Procession[85]
X.
IN TEHERAN.
Talking to Turks of Home—Social Contrasts in Asia[89]
XI.
THE SALT DESERT OF DESHTI-KUVIR.
Choosing a Companion—Morning Prayer—The Desert of Devils—TheCaravan of the Dead[94]
XII.
KUM AND KASHAN.
The City of Virgins—The Tomb of Fatima—Kashan—Murder in theDesert[104]
XIII.
FROM ISFAHAN TO THE SUPPOSED TOMB OFCYRUS.
The Pope of Isfahan—Movable Towers—Tales for Travellers—Gazellesin the Desert—Fars[113]
XIV.
PERSEPOLIS.
Solomon's Throne—A Morning Reverie—Vandalism in Persia—Embracingthe Pilgrims[125]
XV.
SHIRAZ.
Fertility of Shiraz—A Linguist's Joke—Persian Cruelty—Saadi—EuropeansFeasting in Persia—An Earthquake in Shiraz—Desolation[136]
XVI.
PREPARATIONS FOR MY JOURNEY TOCENTRAL ASIA.
Chivalrous Dervishes—Scruples—Journey with Tartars—Committedto His Purpose[150]
XVII.
FROM TEHERAN TO THE LAND OF THETURKOMANS.
Description of the Caravan—Incognito Unveiled—Thieving Jackals—UnrequitedLove—The Slave Trade[161]
XVIII.
GOMUSHTEPE.
Receiving the Pilgrims—How to become a Dervish—Learning in theWilds—Slavery—A Betrothal Feast—A Robber Chief[174]
XIX.
FROM GOMUSHTEPE TO THE BORDER OFTHE DESERT.
Threatened by the Wild Boar—An Anxious Moment[187]
XX.
IN THE DESERT.
Suspicion Aroused—A Pious Brother—Karendag Mountains—LittleBalkan Mountain—Charm of the Desert—Thirst!—HotWeather[192]
XXI.
IN KHIVA.
An Army of Asses—Rest and Dread—Making a Friend—TheKhan—A Lion in Khiva—Fierce Barbarism[213]
XXII.
FROM KHIVA TO BOKHARA.
Intoxicated Dervishes—A Khivan Fair—Flying from Tekkes—Thirstand Despair—Among Slaves[233]
XXIII.
IN BOKHARA.
Life in Bokhara—More Suspicions—Theology in Bokhara—The SlaveTrade—The Road to Samarkand[244]
XXIV.
IN SAMARKAND.
Tombs of the Saints—Ambition and Prudence—A Royal Cross-Examiner[254]
XXV.
FROM SAMARKAND TO HERAT.
Taken for a Runaway Slave—A Scorpion Bite—Saved by Prayers—Redemptionof Slaves—Exorbitant Tolls[263]
XXVI.
IN HERAT AND BEYOND IT.
A City in Ruins—Yakub Khan—Freezing Weather[275]
XXVII.
IN MESHED.
A Meshed Crowd—An Unceremonious Visitor—A Welcome—AMeshed Monument—Persecution of Jews—The Tomb of Firdusi[283]
XXVIII.
FROM MESHED TO TEHERAN.
An Old Friend—Saddle v. Cushions—A Curious Phenomenon—Alonein the Desert—An Englishman—A Snug Berth—Confoundingthe Disturbers—Reputation without Foundation[297]
XXIX.
FROM TEHERAN TO TREBIZOND.
The Discomforts of Civilization—Presented to the Shah—PersianOfficial Corruption—A Character—An Expensive Photographer[314]
XXX.
HOMEWARDS.
Constantinople—London[325]
XXXI.
IN ENGLAND.
Sir Henry Rawlinson—Sir Roderick Murchison—Lord Strangford—ALion in London—At Burlington House—The Sorrows ofAuthorship[330]
XXXII.
IN PARIS.
Napoleon III.—French Suspicions[343]
XXXIII.
IN HUNGARY.
In Hungary[349]