| Chapter | Paragraph Description | Page |
|---|
| [I] | The start—The terrors of the Russian Custom-house—An
amusing incident at the Russian frontier—Politeness of
Russian officials—Warsaw: its sights; its lovely women—The
talented Pole—People who know how to travel by
train—A ludicrous scene. | [1] |
| [II] | Kiev—Its protecting Saint—Intellectuality and trade—Priests
and education—Wherein lies the strength of Russia—Industries—A
famous Monastery—The Catacombs of St.
Theodosius and St. Anthony—Pilgrims—Veneration of
Saints—The Dnieper river—Churches—A luminous cross—Kharkoff—Agriculture—Horse
fairs—Rostoff—Votka
drunkenness—Strong fortifications—Cheap and good travelling—Baku. | [12] |
| [III] | Baku—Unnecessary anxiety—A storm—Oil wells—Naphtha
spouts—How the wells are worked—The native city—The
Baku Bay—Fortifications—The Maiden's Tower—Depressing
vegetation—Baku dust—Prosperity and hospitality—The
Amir of Bokhara—The mail service to Persia on the
Caspian—The Mercury and Caucasus line—Lenkoran—Astara
(Russo-Persian boundary)—Antiquated steamers. | [21] |
| [IV] | The Port of Enzeli—Troublesome landing—Flat-bottomed
boats—A special permit—Civility of officials—Across the
Murd-ap lagoon—Piri-Bazaar—A self-imposed golden
rule—Where our stock came from—The drive to Resht—The
bazaar—The native shops and foreign goods—Ghilan's
trade—The increase in trade—British and Russian
competitions—Sugar—Tobacco—Hotels—The British
Consulate—The Governor's palace—H.E. Salare Afkham—A
Swiss hotel—Banks. | [29] |
| [V] | Resht—Impostors—A visit to the Head Mullah—Quaint notions—Arrangements
for the drive to Teheran—The Russian
concession of the Teheran road—The stormy Caspian and
unsafe harbours—The great Menzil bridge—A detour in
the road—Capital employed in the construction of the road—Mistaken
English notions of Russia—Theory and practice—High
tolls—Exorbitant fares—A speculator's offer refused—Development
of the road. | [44] |
| [VI] | A journey by landau and four—Picturesque coachman—Tolls—Intense
moisture—Luxuriant vegetation—Deschambe
Bazaar—The silk industry of Ghilan—The cultivation and
export of rice—The Governor's energy—Agriculture and
Allah—The water question—The coachman's backshish—The
White River—Olive groves—Halting places on the
road—The effects of hallucination—Princes abundant. | [57] |
| [VII] | Menzil and the winds—The historical Alamut mountain—A
low plateau—Volcanic formation—Mol-Ali—A genuine case
of smallpox—Characteristic sitting posture—A caravan of
mules—Rugged country—The remains of a volcanic commotion—The
old track—Kasvin, the city of misfortunes—The
Governor's palace and palatial rest house—Earthquakes
and famine—Kanats, the marvellous aqueducts—How they
are made—Manufactures—Kasvin strategically. | [69] |
| [VIII] | Four thousand feet above sea-level—Castellated walls—An
obnoxious individual—Luggage weighing—The strange
figure of an African black—How he saved an Englishman's
life—Teheran hotels—Interesting guests—Life of bachelors
in Teheran—The Britisher in Persia—Home early—Social
sets—Etiquette—Missionaries—Foreign communities—The
servant question. | [78] |
| [IX] | Teheran—The seat of the Kajar family—The square of the
gun—Sanctuaries—The Top Meidan—Tramways—A
railway—Opposition of the Mullahs and population—Destruction
of a train—Mosques—Habitations—Extortion
and blackmail—Persian philosophy. | [87] |
| [X] | Legations—Germany a stumbling-block to Russia's and England's
supremacy—Sir Arthur Hardinge, British Minister
in Teheran—His talent, tact, and popularity—The British
Legation—Summer quarters—Legation guards—Removal
of furniture. | [95] |
| [XI] | Visits to high Persian officials—Meftah-es-Sultaneh—Persian
education—A college for orphans—Uncomfortable etiquette—The
Foreign Office—H.E. Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister
of Foreign Affairs—Persian interest in the Chinese War of
1900—Reform necessary. | [102] |
| [XII] | The Persian army—The Persian soldier as he is and as he
might be—When and how he is drilled—Self-doctoring
under difficulties—Misappropriation of the army's salary—Cossack
regiments drilled by Russian officers—Death of the
Head Mullah—Tribute of the Jews—The position of Europeans—A
gas company—How it fulfilled its agreement. | [111] |
| [XIII] | Cash and wealth—Capital as understood by Persians—Hidden
fortunes—Forms of extravagance—Unbusiness-like qualities—Foreign
examples—Shaken confidence of natives in
foreigners—Greed for money—Small merchants—Illicit
ways of increasing wealth—The Persian a dreamer—Unpunctuality—Time
no money and no object—Hindrance to
reform—Currency—Gold, silver, and copper—Absorption of
silver—Drainage of silver into Transcaspia—Banknotes—The
fluctuations of the Kran—How the poorer classes are
affected by it—Coins old and new—Nickel coins—The
Shai and its subdivisions. | [120] |
| [XIV] | The Banks of Persia—The Imperial Bank of Persia—The
most revered foreigner in Persia—Loans—The road concession—The
action of the Stock Exchange injurious to
British interests—Securities—Brains and not capital—Risks
of importing capital—An ideal banking situation—Hoarding—Defective
communication—The key to profitable
banking in Persia—How the exchange is affected—Coins—Free
trade—The Russian Bank and Mr. De Witte—Mr.
Grube an able Manager—Healthy competition—Support
of the Russian Government. | [135] |
| [XV] | Illegitimate Bank-notes—Hampering the Bank's work—The
grand fiasco of the Tobacco Corporation—Magnificent
behaviour of the natives—The Mullahs and tobacco—The
nation gives up smoking—Suppression of the monopoly—Compensation—Want
of tact—Important European commercial
houses and their work—Russian and British trade—Trade
routes—The new Persian Customs—What they
are represented to be and what they are—Duties—The
employment of foreigners in Persia—The Maclean
incident. | [147] |
| [XVI] | Russia on the brain—The apprehended invasion of India—Absolute
nonsense—Russia's tariff—In the House of
Commons—A friendly understanding advisable—German
competition—The peace of the world—Russia's firm policy
of bold advance—An outlet in the Persian Gulf—The policy
of drift—Sound knowledge of foreign countries needed—Mutual
advantages of a Russian and British agreement—Civilisation—Persia's
integrity. | [159] |
| [XVII] | Education—Educated but not instructed—The Mullahs—The
Madrassahs—The Royal College in Teheran—Secular
Schools—The brain of Persian students—Hints on commercial
education for Englishmen—Languages a necessity—Observation—Foreigners
and Englishmen—The Englishman
as a linguist—Special commercial training in Germany—The
British manufacturer—Ways and ways—Our
Colonies swamped with foreign-made goods—Russia fast
and firmly advancing. | [169] |
| [XVIII] | Persia's industrial, mineral and agricultural resources—Climate
of various districts—Ghilan's trade—Teheran and the
surrounding country—Khorassan and Sistan—The Caspian
provinces—Mazanderan, Astrabad and Azerbaijan—Russian
activity and concessions in Azerbaijan—Hamadan—The
Malayer and Borujird districts—The nomads of Kurdistan—Naphtha—The
tribes of Pusht-i-kuh—The pastoral
people of Luristan—Arabistan—Farsistan—Laristan—Shiraz
wines—Persian Beluchistan. | [183] |
| [XIX] | A Persian wedding—Polygamy—Seclusion of women—Match-makers—Subterfuges—The
Nomzad, or official betrothal
day—The wedding ceremony in the harem—For luck—The
wedding procession—Festival—Sacrifices of sheep
and camels—The last obstacle, the ruhmah—The bride's
endowment—The bridegroom's settlement—Divorces—A
famous well for unfaithful women—Women's influence—Division
of property. | [192] |
| [XX] | Persian women—Their anatomy—Their eyes—Surmah—Age
of puberty—The descendants of Mohammed—Infanticide—Circumcision—Deformities
and abnormalities—The
ear—The teeth and dentistry—The nose—A Persian
woman's indoor dress—The yel—The tadji and other
jewels—Out-of-door dress—The Chakchur—The ruh-band—The
Chudder. | [204] |
| [XXI] | The Shah's birthday—Illuminations—The Shah in his automobile—Ministers
in audience—Etiquette at the Shah's
Court—The Shah—A graceful speaker—The Shah's
directness of speech—The Kajars and the Mullahs—The
défilé of troops—A blaze of diamonds. | [216] |
| [XXII] | The Shah's Palace—The finest court—Alabaster throne hall—A
building in European style—The Museum—A chair of
solid gold and silver—The Atch—Paintings—The banqueting
room—The audience room—Beautiful carpets—An
elaborate clock—Portraits of sovereigns and their places—Pianos
and good music—The Jewelled-Globe room—Queen
Victoria's photograph—Moving pictures—Conservatory—Roman
mosaics—Toys—Adam and Eve—Royal and imperial
oil paintings—A decided slight—The picture gallery—Valuable
collection of arms—Strange paintings—Coins—Pearls—Printing
press—Shah's country places. | [225] |
| [XXIII] | The selection of a servant—A Persian diligence—Shah-Abdul-Azim
mosque—Rock carving—The round tower—Beggars—The
Kerjawa—Hasanabad—Run-away horses—Misplaced
affection—Characteristics of the country—Azizawad—Salt
lake of Daria-i-Nimak—Aliabad—Sunsets. | [241] |
| [XXIV] | Severe wind—Kum, the holy city—Thousands of graves—Conservative
Mullahs—Ruin and decay—Leather tanning—The
gilt dome—Another extortion—Ingenious bellows—Damovend—The
scenery—Passangun—Evening prayers—A
contrivance for setting charcoal alight—Putrid water—Post
horses—Sin Sin—Mirage—Nassirabad—Villages near
Kashan. | [252] |
| [XXV] | Kashan—Silk manufactories—Indo-European Telegraph—The
Zein-ed-din tower—The Meh-rab shrine—The
Madrassah Shah—The Panja Shah—The hand of Nazareth
Abbas—The Fin Palace—Hot springs—The tragic end of
an honest Prime Minister—Ice store-houses—Cultivation—In
the bazaar—Brass work—Silk—The Mullahs and
places of worship—Wretched post-horses—The Gyabrabad
caravanserai—An imposing dam—Fruit-tree groves—Picturesque
Kohrut village. | [263] |
| [XXVI] | Crossing the Pass—Held up by robbers—Amusing courtesy—Brigands
to protect from brigands—Parting friends—Soh—Biddeshk—Copper
and iron—Robber tribes—An Englishman
robbed—A feature of Persian mountains—A military
escort—How compensation is paid by the Persian Government—Murchikhar—Robbers
and the guards—Ghiez—Distances
from Teheran to Isfahan. | [273] |
| [XXVII] | Missionary work in Persia—Educational and medical work—No
Mahommedan converts—Bibles—Julfa—Armenian
settlement—Conservative customs—Armenian women—Their
education—The Armenian man—Europeans—A
bird's-eye view of Isfahan—Armenian graveyard—A long
bridge—The Rev. James Loraine Garland—Mission among
the Jews. | [281] |
| [XXVIII] | The Mission among Jews—Schools for boys and girls—A
practical institution—The Jews of Persia—Persecution by
Persians—Characteristics of Jews—Girls—Occupations—Taxation—The
social level of Jews. | [288] |
| [XXIX] | The square of Isfahan—The Palace gate—The entrance to
the bazaar—Beggars—Formalities and etiquette—The
bazaar—Competition—How Persians buy—Long credit—Arcades—Hats—Cloth
shops—Sweet shops—Butchers—Leather
goods—Saddle-bags—The bell shop—Trunks. | [296] |
| [XXX] | The Brass Bazaar—Mirror shop—Curdled milk—A tea shop—Fruit
and vegetable bazaar—The walnut seller—The
Auctioneer—Pipe shops—Barber—Headdress—Bread shops—Caravanserais—The
day of rest. | [305] |
| [XXXI] | A carpet factory—Children at work—The process of carpet-making—Foreign
influence in the design—Aniline dyes—"Ancient
carpets" manufactured to-day—Types of carpets—Kerman
carpets—Isfahan silk carpets—Kurdistan rugs—Birjand
and Sultanabad carpets—Carpets made by wandering
tribes—Jewellers—Sword-makers and gunsmiths—Humming
birds. | [313] |
| [XXXII] | The Grand Avenue of Isfahan—The Madrassah—Silver gates—The
dome—The Palace—The hall of forty columns—Ornamentations—The
picture hall—Interesting paintings—Their
artistic merit—Nasr-ed-din Shah's portrait—The
ceiling—The quivering minarets. | [321] |
| [XXXIII] | Isfahan the commercial heart of Persia—Dangers of maps in
argument—Bandar Abbas—The possibility of a Russian
railway to Bandar Abbas—Bandar Abbas as a harbour—The
caravan road to Bandar Abbas—Rates of transport—Trade—British
and Russian influence—Shipping—A
Russian line of steamers—Customs under Belgian officials—Lingah—Its
exports and imports. | [330] |
| [XXXIV] | Mahommerah—Where Russia's aims are directed—Advantages
of Mahommerah—The navigation of the Karun River—Traffic—Rates
on the Ahwaz-Isfahan track—The
Government's attitude—Wheat—Russian influence—Backhtiari
Chiefs—Up and down river trade—Gum—Cotton
goods—Sugar—Caravan route—Steamers—Disadvantages
of a policy of drift—Russian enterprise. | [339] |
| [XXXV] | The British Consul-General in Isfahan—Russia's influence in
Southern Persia—H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan—Departure for
Yezd—Pigeon towers—A Persian telegraph line—Ghiavaz—Characteristics
of the scenery—A village in ruins—Types—Saigsi—Mud
dunes—Mirage—A reservoir—Kanats—Scarcity
of fodder. | [348] |
| [XXXVI] | Khupah—Sunken well—Caravanserai—Night marching—Kudeshk—The
Fishark and Sara ranges—Lhas—The pass—Whirlwinds—Robbers—Fezahbad—The
dangers of a
telegraph wire—An accident—Six villages—Deposits of sand
and gravel—Bambis—The people—Mosquitoes—A Persian
house—Weaving loom—Type of natives—Clothing—Sayids. | [357] |
| [XXXVII] | Bambis—The Kashsan-Yezd high road—The Kevir plain—Minerals—Chanoh—Sand
deposits—Sherawat—Kanats—Agdah—Stone
cairns—Kiafteh—An isolated mount—A
long sand bar—A forsaken village—Picturesque Biddeh—Handsome
caravanserai at Meiboh—Rare baths—Shamsi—Sand-hills—Hodjatabad—Fuel—A
"tower of silence"—A
split camel—Thousands of borings for water—A four-towered
well. | [369] |
| [XXXVIII] | Yezd—Water supply—Climate—Cultivation—Products—Exports
and imports—Population—Trade—Officials—Education—Persian
children—Public schools—The Mushir
school—The Parsee school—C.M.S. mission school—The
medical mission—The hospital—Christianizing difficult—European
ladies in Persia—Tolerance of race religions. | [381] |
| [XXXIX] | The Guebres of Yezd—Askizar—The Sassanian dynasty—Yezdeyard—The
name "Parsees"—The Arab invasion of
Persia—A romantic tale—Zoroaster—Parsees of India—Why
the Parsees remained in Yezd and Kerman—Their
number—Oppression—The teaching of the Zoroastrian
religion and of the Mahommedan—A refreshing quality—Family
ties—Injustice—Guebre places of worship—The
sacred fire—Religious ceremonies—Three excellent points
in the Zoroastrian religion—The Parsees not "fire
worshippers"—Purification of fire—No ancient sacred
books—Attire—No civil rights—The "jazia" tax—Occupations—The
Bombay Parsees Amelioration Society
and its work—The pioneers of trade—A national assembly—Ardeshir
Meheban Irani—Establishment of the Association—Naturalized
British subjects—Consulates wanted—The
Bombay Parsees—Successful traders—Parsee generosity—Mr.
Jamsetsji Tata. | [394] |
| [XL] | Badjirs—Below the sand level—Chappar service between Yezd
and Kerman—The elasticity of a farsakh—Sar-i-Yezd—An
escort—Where three provinces meet—Etiquette—Robbers'
impunity—A capital story—Zen-u-din—The Serde Kuh
range—Desert—Sand accumulations—Kermanshah—The
Darestan and Godare Hashimshan Mountains—Chappar
Khana inscriptions and ornamentations by travellers—Shemsh. | [408] |
| [XLI] | Desolate scenery—Anar—A word for Persian servants—Sadek's
English—Bayas village—Sand deposits—Robber villagers—Kushkuhyeh
Chappar khana—The post contractor, his
rifle—Cotton cultivation—Fast growing Rafsenju—Trade
tracks—Hindu merchants—Sadek and the Chappar boy—Kafter-han—Photography
and women—A flat, salty stretch
of clay and sand—The Kuh Djupahr peaks—Robat
women—Baghih—Attractive girls—Mirage—Arrival in
Kerman. | [419] |
| [XLII] | Kerman—The Ark or citadel—Civility of the natives—Europeans—The
British Consulate—Major Phillott—H. E.
Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman—Soldiers—Teaching
music to recruits—Preparation for the campaign
against the Beluch—Cloth manufacture. | [431] |
| [XLIII] | The Madrassah—"Peace on Abraham"—The Hammam—Trade
caravanserais—The Hindoo caravanserai—Parsees—Ancient
fortifications—The Kala-i-Dukhtar, or virgin fort—Speculation—The
Kala-Ardeshir—A deep well—Why
it was made. | [439] |
| [XLIV] | The deserted city of Farmidan—More speculation—The
Afghan invasion—Kerman surrenders to Agha Muhammed
Khan—A cruel oppressor—Luft-Ali-Khan to the rescue—The
Zoroastrians—Mahala Giabr—Second Afghan invasion—Luft-Ali-Khan's
escape—Seventy thousand human
eyes—Women in slavery—Passes—An outpost—Fire
temples—Gigantic inscriptions—A stiff rock climb—A
pilgrimage for sterile women—A Russian picnic—A Persian
dinner—Fatabad—The trials of abundance—A Persian
menu—Rustamabad—Lovely fruit garden. | [447] |
| | To face page |
| His Majesty the Shah of Persia | [Frontispiece] |
| The Baku Oil Wells | [20] |
| The Amir of Bokhara leaving Baku to return to his Country | [26] |
| Persian Wrestling | [38] |
| Fourgons on the Russian Road between Resht and Teheran | [50] |
| Making a Kanat | [74] |
| The Murderer of Nasr-ed-din Shah | [90] |
| Persian Cossacks (Teheran) Drilled by Russian Officers | [100] |
| The Eftetahié College, supported by Meftah-el-Mulk | [102] |
| H. E. Mushir-ed-Doulet, Minister of Foreign Affairs | [106] |
| Persian Soldiers—The Band | [112] |
| Recruits learning Music | [112] |
| The Arrival of a Caravan of Silver at the Imperial Bank of Persia | [126] |
| The Imperial Bank of Persia Decorated on the Shah's Birthday | [134] |
| A Typical Persian Window. (Mr. Rabino's House, Teheran.) | [140] |
| The First Position in Persian Wrestling | [158] |
| Palawans, or Strong Men giving a Display of Feats of Strength | [158] |
| Iman Jumeh. Head Priest of Teheran, and Official Sayer of Prayers to the Shah | [170] |
| Sahib Divan, who was at various periods Governor of Shiraz and Khorassan | [190] |
| Persian Woman and Child | [206] |
| A Picturesque Beggar Girl | [206] |
| Ruku Sultaneh, Brother of the present Shah | [218] |
| The Shah in his Automobile | [224] |
| The Sadrazam's (Prime Minister's) Residence, Teheran | [224] |
| In the Shah's Palace Grounds, Teheran | [230] |
| The Shah and his Suite | [240] |
| Rock Sculpture near Shah-Abdul-Azim | [244] |
| Author's Diligence between Teheran and Kum | [244] |
| The Track along the Kohrut Dam | [270] |
| Between Gyabrabad and Kohrut | [270] |
| The Interior of Chappar Khana at Kohrut | [272] |
| Chapparing—the Author's post horses | [278] |
| Persian Escort firing at Brigands | [278] |
| Jewish Girls, Isfahan | [292] |
| An Isfahan Jew | [292] |
| The Square, Isfahan | [298] |
| The Palace Gate, Isfahan | [304] |
| Boys Weaving a Carpet | [314] |
| Cotton Cleaners | [314] |
| Handsome Doorway in the Madrassah, Isfahan | [322] |
| One of Zil-es-Sultan's Eunuchs | [326] |
| The "Hall of Forty Columns," Isfahan | [326] |
| The Quivering Minarets near Isfahan | [330] |
| H.R.H. Zil-es-Sultan, Governor of Isfahan | [350] |
| Agriculture and Pigeon Towers near Isfahan | [352] |
| Persian Spinning Wheels and Weaving Looms | [366] |
| Halting at a Caravanserai | [380] |
| A Street in Yezd, showing High Badjirs or Ventilating Shafts | [380] |
| Ardeshir Meheban Irani and the Leading Members of the Anguman-i-Nasseri (Parsee National Assembly), Yezd | [394] |
| Parsee Priests of Yezd Officiating during Ceremony in their Fire Temple | [400] |
| Interior of Old Caravanserai with Central Water Tank | [410] |
| Typical Caravanserai and Mud Fort in the Desert between Yezd and Kerman | [414] |
| A Trade Caravanserai, Kerman | [414] |
| H. E. Ala-el-Mulk, Governor of Kerman, in his Palace | [432] |
| Tiled Walls and Picturesque Windows in the Madrassah, Kerman | [438] |
| Sirkar Agha's Son, the Head of the Sheikhi Sect, Kerman | [438] |
| The Interior of a Hammam or Bath—First Room | [442] |
| The Hot Room in a Persian Bath | [444] |
| The Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort | [444] |
| Graveyard and Kala-i-Dukhtar or Virgin Fort, Kerman | [446] |
| Ruined Houses of Farmitan | [450] |
| Plan of House at Farmitan | [450] |
| A Steep Rock Climb, Kerman | [454] |
| A View of the Kerman Plain from the "Ya Ali" Inscription | [458] |
| Wives Returning from the Pilgrimage for Sterile Women | [458] |
| Map at the End of Volume. | [461] |
| Chapter | Paragraph Description | Page |
|---|
| [I] | Difficulties of crossing the Great Salt Desert—The trials of
arranging a caravan—The ways of camel-men—A quaint
man of the Desert—A legal agreement—Preparations for
the departure—"Kerman" and "Zeris," my two Persian
kittens and travelling companions—Persian cats—The
start—The charms of camel riding—Marching among
mountains. | [1] |
| [II] | Fifty miles from Kerman—Camels not made for climbing hills—The
Godar Khorassunih Pass—Volcanic formation—Sar-es-iap—A
variegated mountain—A castle—Rock
dwellings—Personal safety—Quaint natives—Women and
their ways—Footgear. | [11] |
| [III] | An abandoned caravanserai—Fantastic hill tops—No water—A
most impressive mountain—Sediments of salt—A dry river
bed—Curious imprints in the rock—A row—Intense heat—Accident
to our supply of eggs—The end of a meeting—Misleading
maps—Haoz Panch—The camel-man's bread—Lawah. | [19] |
| [IV] | Lawah or Rawar—A way to Yezd—The bazaar—Trade—Ruined
forts—Opium smoking and its effects—Beggar's
ingenious device—In a local gentleman's home—The
Tokrajie—Buying fresh provisions—Water skins—An
unhealthy climate—A fight—When fever is contracted—Wolves
in camp—Fever stricken—A third cat purchased. | [27] |
| [V] | Salt sediments as white as snow—Brilliant stars—Plaintive
songs of the camel men—An improvisatore—Unpleasant
odour of camels—A large salt deposit—No water and no
fuel—A device to protect oneself against great heat—Amazing
intelligence of cats—Nature's ways and men's
ways—A hot climb—A brilliantly coloured range—Sea
shells and huge fossils. | [36] |
| [VI] | A long detour—Mount Darband—A water-cut gorge—Abandoned
watch towers—Passes into the desert—A wall-like
mountain range—The tower and fortified caravanserai
at camp Darband—Brackish water—Terrific heat—Compensating
laws of nature better than absurd patents—Weird
rocks—Cairns—Chel-payeh salt well—Loss of half our
supply of fresh water—Camels and men overcome by the
heat. | [44] |
| [VII] | Fortress-like cliffs—A long troublesome march—Sixteen hours
on the saddle—All our fresh-water supply gone!—Fever—Electricity
of the desert—Troublesome camel men—A
small oasis—An ancient battered tower—A giant—Naiband
mountain and village—Rock habitations—A landmark in
the desert. | [53] |
| [VIII] | A visit to the eight-towered village—A hostile demonstration—Quaint
houses—Stoned—Brigand villagers—A device—Peculiar
characteristics of natives—Picturesque features—Constant
intermarriage and its effects—Nature's freaks—Children—Elongating
influence of the desert—Violent
women—Beasts of burden—Photography under difficulty—Admirable
teeth of the natives—Men's weak chests—Clothing—A
farewell demonstration—Fired at. | [60] |
| [IX] | Misfortunes—Suffocating heat—An expected attack—Electricity—Strayed
camels—A barber and his ways—A track
to Meshed—Pilgrim husband and wife across the desert—Another
long march—A salt stream—Brackish well. | [70] |
| [X] | Intense cold—Dulled sense of taste—Characteristics of the
country—Beautiful stones—Clouds of the desert—A salt
stream—Icicles on the moustache and eyelashes—Longing
for sunrise—Prayers of the camel men—Fedeshk—Ali
Murat meets his wife—Opium dens and opium smokers—Effects
of smoking opium in excess—Fever-stricken people—Dwellings—An
official visitor—Science reduced to
practice—Sadek's idea of sunset and sunrise—"Keshk"
cheese—Arrival in Birjand. | [77] |
| [XI] | My caravan disbanded—Birjand—Ruined fortress—The city—Number
of houses—Population—The citadel—Artillery—Trade
routes—Birjand as a strategical position—A
trading centre—No fresh water—The Amir—Indian
pilgrims—Birjand carpets—Industries—A pioneer British
trader—Imports and exports—How business is transacted—Russian
and British goods—Long credit—A picturesque
caravanserai—Afghan soldiers—Beluch camel men. | [90] |
| [XII] | A loud explosion—Persian military officers—Dr. Abbas Ali
Khan, British Agent in Birjand—His excellent work—Gratefulness
of the natives—A quaint letter—The Russian
Agent—A Russian temporary score—More British Consulates
needed—Visits returned—Altitude and temperature
of Birjand—Cossacks and their houses—A bright scene in
a graveyard—Departure of Indian pilgrims for Meshed—British
Consular postal service—Russian post—Making up
a second caravan. | [103] |
| [XIII] | Departure from Birjand—A cloud like a skeleton hand—A
downpour—The village of Muht—A ruined fortress—A
beautiful sunset—A pass—Besieged by native callers—Two
towers at Golandeh—Strayed—Curious pits—Sahlabad—The
impression of a foreign bed—Fujiama's
twin. | [112] |
| [XIV] | Suspicious characters—A trap—Held up—No water—The
haunt of robbers—Fierce daily winds—Volcanic formation—A
crater—Wall-like barriers—A salt stream—A caravan
from Quetta. | [122] |
| [XV] | Sadek's wastefulness—Meeting two enterprising English traders—Another
circular crater—Wind and electricity in the air—Their
effects—A fortress—Soldiers and brigandage—Zemahlabad—Windmills—Bandan—Ancient
tombs—Picturesque
women—Lost our way—A welcome messenger—Nasirabad—"Ruski"
or "Inglis"—Several miles of
villages and houses—English maps and foreign names—Greeted
by Major Benn. | [131] |
| [XVI] | English fancy geographical names—Sher-i-Nasrya—The main
street—The centre of the city—Reverence of the natives
for Major Benn—A splendid type of British official—Indian
and Russian goods—The Shikin Maghut cloth—Steadily
increasing trade of the Nushki route—Khorassan
horses for remounts—Husseinabad—Russian Vice-Consulate—Mr.
Miller—Characteristic windmills—"The wind of
120 days"—Benn Bazaar. | [142] |
| [XVII] | The British Bazaar—The pioneer traders of Sistan—Sistan
a half-way house and not the terminus of the route—Comfortable
route—Protection and redress—Indian tea in
Persia—Persian market overstocked—Enterprise of Indian
tea traders—Which are the markets worth cultivating—Articles
mostly wanted in Sistan and Meshed—Exports—A
problem to be faced—Ways of communication needed to
cities of central Persia. | [151] |
| [XVIII] | Sistan's state of transition—British Consul's tact—Advancing
Russian influence—Safety—A fight between Sistanis and
Afghans—The Sar-tip—Major Benn's pluck and personal
influence—Five Afghans seriously wounded—The city
gates closed—The Customs caravanserai—A British
caravanserai needed—Misstatements—Customs officials—Fair
and just treatment to all—Versatile Major Benn—A
much needed assistant—More Consulates wanted—Excellent
British officials—Telegraph line necessary—A much-talked-of
railway—The salutary effect of a garrison at Robat
frontier post. | [161] |
| [XIX] | The history of the Sistan Vice-Consulate—Major Chevenix
Trench—Laying the foundation of the Consulate—Hoisting
the British flag—Major Benn—A terrible journey—A
plucky Englishwoman—The mud Consulate—Its evolution—The
new buildings—Ka-khanas—Gardening under
difficulties—How horses are kept—The enclosing wall—The
legend of Trenchabad city—The Consulate Mosque—Dr.
Golam Jelami—The hospital—Successful operations—Prevalent
complaints of Sistan—The Sistan Sore. | [171] |
| [XX] | Laid up with fever—Christmas Day—A visit to the Amir—Hashmat-ul-Mulk—An
ancient city over eighty miles long—Extreme
civility of Persian officials—An unusual
compliment—Prisoners—Personal revenge—"An eye for
an eye, a tooth for a tooth"—Punishments and crime—Fines—Bastinado—Disfigurement—Imprisonment—Blowing
criminals from a gun—Strangling and decapitation. | [183] |
| [XXI] | The London of the East—A city eighty-six miles long—The
village of Bunjar—An ancient tower—Iskil—The Kalantar
of Sistan—Collection of ancient jewellery from the buried
city—Interesting objects—A romantic life and tragic death—A
treacherous Afghan—Strained relations between the
Sistan and Afghan Governors—Sand-barchans—Flat roofs
and gable roofs—The pillar of Mil-i-Zaidan—A conical
ice-house—The imposing fort of Zaidan—A neighbouring
modern village. | [194] |
| [XXII] | An ancient city as big as London—The citadel—Towers—Small
rooms—The walls—Immensity of the city—Sand drifts—Why
some parts are buried and some are not—An extensive
wall—Great length of the city—Evidence that the habitations
were continuous—The so-called Rud-i-Nasru—Its position—A
double outer wall—A protected road—Interesting
structures—An immense graveyard—Tombs—Sand drifts
explained—A former gate of the city—The Chil-pir or
tomb of forty saints—Interesting objects found—Beautiful
inscriptions on marble and slate—Marble columns—Graceful
lamps—Exciting digging—A tablet—Heptagonal tower—A
ghastly figure. | [205] |
| [XXIII] | A short historical sketch of Zaidan city—How it was pillaged
and destroyed—Fortresses and citadels—Taimur Lang—Shah
Rukh—Revolutions—The Safavi dynasty—Peshawaran,
Pulki, Deshtak—Sir F. Goldsmid's and Bellew's
impressions—The extent of the Peshawaran ruins—Arabic
inscriptions—A curious ornamentation—Mosques and
mihrab—Tomb of Saiyid Ikbal—The Farah Rud and
Harut Rud—The "Band" of the Halmund—Canals and
channels old and new of the Halmund delta—The Rud-i-Nasru
and the Rud-i-Perian—Strange temporary graves—Ancient
prosperity of Eastern Persia. | [219] |
| [XXIV] | Departure from Sistan—Dadi—Not one's idea of a pasture—The
Kuh-i-Kwajah—Its altitude—The "City of roars of
laughter"—Interesting ascent to the summit—A water
reservoir—Family graves—Dead-houses—A grave with
thirty-eight compartments—The Gandun Piran Ziarat—Scrolls
and inscriptions—Priest's house—Modern graves—Skulls
and their characteristics—A smaller Ziarat—The
Kuk fort—A bird's-eye view of Kala-i-Kakaha city—Strange
legends about the city—Why Kala-i-Kakaha is
famous. | [233] |
| [XXV] | Villages between Sher-i-Nasrya and Kuh-i-Kwajah—The last
of the Kayani—Husena Baba—Thousands of sheep—The
Patang Kuh—Protecting black walls—A marsh—Sand
dunes—Warmal—Quaint terraces—How roofs are built—A
spacious residence built for nine shillings—Facial
characteristics of natives—Bread making—Semi-spherical
sand mounts—Natural protections against the northerly
winds. | [251] |
| [XXVI] | Sand accumulations—A round tower—Mahommed Raza Chah—A
burial ground—Rustam's city—An ancient canal—Rustam's
house—The Persian hero's favourite room—A
store room—Reception hall—The city wall—Where
Rustam's son was impaled—The stable of Rustam's gigantic
horse—More dry canals—An immense graveyard—Sand
and its ways—A probable buried city—A land-mark—Sadek's
ways—A glorious sunset—Girdi—Beluch greeting. | [261] |
| [XXVII] | Girdi-chah, a desolate spot—Its renowned water—Post-houses
and Persian Customs soldiers—Nawar-chah and its well—The
salt river Shela—Its course—Beautiful colours in salt
crystals—Tamarisks—The Kuh-i-Malek-Siah—The loftiest
mountain—Afghans—Hormak, a picturesquely situated
post station—A natural pyramid of rock—Natural fortresses—The
Malek-Siah Ziarat—Where three coveted countries
meet—The hermit—The evolution of a sand hill—Parallel
sand dunes—In Beluchistan—Robat, the most north-easterly
British post. | [277] |
| [XXVIII] | The Lahr Kuh—Robat thana and bungalow—Saïd Khan—Persian
and Beluch music, songs and dancing—Beluch
musical instruments—Beluch melodies, love and war songs—Comic
songs—Beluch voices—Persian melodies—Solo
songs—Ululations—Persian instruments—Castanets—Persian
and Beluch dancing—The chap. | [293] |
| [XXIX] | An excellent track—A quaint rock—A salt rivulet—Laskerisha—Mahommed
Raza-chah—Beluch encampment—The
horrors of photography—Maternal love—A track to
Mirjawa—Kirtaka—Direct track to Sher-i-Nasrya—Track
to Cabul—Sand-hills—A wide river bed—A high yellow
pillar—Undulating track—Ten sharp-pointed peaks. | [307] |
| [XXX] | An excursion into Afghanistan—The salt deposits of God-i-Zirreh—Sand
hills—Curious formation of hill range—Barchans
and how they are formed—Alexander's march
through the country—The water of Godar-i-Chah—Afghans
and their looks. | [316] |
| [XXXI] | Saindak—Beluch prisoners—Thana and Bungalow—Beluch
bread—The Saindak mountain and its mineral resources—The
Daftan volcano—Surmah and lead—Mukak and its
strong man—A sick camel—Gypsum—Regheth—Where
the track will deviate in future—Difficulty in obtaining
drinkable water—Wells made attractive—Sahib chah—A
well ventilated rest-house. | [324] |
| [XXXII] | Sick men and camels—What came of photographing Sahib
Chah—Losing the track—Divided opinions—Allah versus
the compass—Sadek's way of locating positions—Picked up
hungry and thirsty by sensible Mahommed who had come
in search—Curious scenery—Trouble at Mirjawa—Mythical
Perso-Beluch frontier—Gypsum and limestone—Mushki
Chah. | [336] |
| [XXXIII] | Mushki-Chah—A Ziarat—Beluch dwellings—The Beluch and
the camera—Characteristics of Beluch—Three wells of
good water at Kundi—The Kuh-i-Sultan and the "Spear
of the Sultan"—A big Ziarat at Kundi—Nineteen hours
on the saddle—Tretoh—Cold wind—Parallel rows of sand
barchans—Startling effect of mirage—Chah Sandan—Brahui
salutation—Belind Khan and his good points—A
respected officer—Praying at the Ziarat. | [346] |
| [XXXIV] | The picturesque Gat mountain—Strange-looking mountains—Mirui—White
covered country—Sotag—Desolate shed at
Chakal—The Karenghi rirri deadly plant—The Mesjid or
Masit—Their characteristics—The religion of Beluch—Sects—Superstitions—The
symbol of evil—A knife "possessed"—A
Beluch's idea of a filter. | [358] |
| [XXXV] | Captain Webb-Ware, C.I.E.—The Nushki route—An excellent
track—Bungalows built and in course of construction—The
water—Postal service—Important Government concession—The
Nushki route and the railways—Hints to traders—Quaint
official formalities—Pilgrims and their ways—An
amusing incident. | [367] |
| [XXXVI] | The Beluch-Afghan boundary—Substantial advantages obtained—The
Afghans driven from Chagai—Who owns Beluchistan?—How
Beluchistan is subdivided—Treaties and
engagements with the Kahn of Kelat—The Brahui and
Nhauri—When British political connection with Kelat
began—Intrigue—The treaty of 1839—The treaty stolen—Kelat
stormed by the British—A revolution—Protection
of caravans—Treaty of 1841—At the death of Nasir Khan—Boundary
matters settled in 1887—A Brahui rebellion—British
mediation—A state of chaos—The Marris and
Bugtis—Reconciliation of the Sardars with the Khan of
Kelat—Treaty of 1876—British agents at the Khan's court—Railways
and telegraphs—Subsidies—British troops
stationed in the country—Major Sandeman, agent to the
Governor-General—The agreement of 1883—Transfer of
dues and tolls—The chiefship of Kharan—The chief of
Las Bela—Troublesome Marris—British Beluchistan—The
occupants of Zhob. | [376] |
| [XXXVII] | The evolution of Nushki—The Zagar Mengal tribe—Tribal
feuds—Competition in trade—Venturesome caravans—Pasand
Khan—Dalbandin and its geographical situation—Game
big and small—Dates—A famous Ziarat—A Beluch
burial ground—Preparing corpses for interment—How
graves are cut into the ground—Beluch marriages—Beluch
thoughtfulness towards newly married couples—A mark of
respect. | [395] |
| [XXXVIII] | A long march—Karodak—Sandstorm—A salt plain—Yadgar—Padag—Beluch
huts—Fierce wind—Plants—Kuchaki chah—Another
double march—Mall—Two tracks—Peculiar
cracks—A gigantic geological fault—An old Beluch fort—Nushki. | [407] |
| [XXXIX] | A new city—The Bungalow—Numerous Beluch villages—Nomads—Beluch
architecture—Weaving looms—Implements—Beluch
diet—Cave dwellers of Nushki—Beluch
dress—Children—The salaam of the chiefs—An impressive
sight—The Kwajah Mahommed Ziarat—Shah Hussein's
Ziarat and its legend—A convenient geographical site. | [414] |
| [XL] | The fast growing city of Nushki—The Tashil—the Tashildar—Beluch
law—Hospital—Pneumonia and consumption—Lawn
tennis—The Nushki Bazaar—Satisfactory trade
returns—The projected Quetta-Nushki Railway—A great
future for Nushki—An extension to Sistan necessary—Also
a telegraph—Preferable routes for a railway to Sistan—From
Nushki to Kishingi—A curious Mesjid—Mudonek
Ateng Mountain—A fast of twenty-five days—The Chiltan
and Takatu Mts.—The Gurghena tribe—Huts and tents—Beluch
hospitality—Villages. | [425] |
| [XLI] | Morad Khan Kella—The horrors of a camera—Seven high
dunes—Three tracks—Where the railway will be laid—A
fine old tamarisk turned into a Ziarat—Pagoda-like rest-houses—Science
versus comfort—Kanak—Afghan women—The
Kandahar road—How we butcher foreign names—Quetta
and Chaman—The horse fair and Durbar at Sibi—Arrival
in Calcutta—The first mishap—The death of
faithful Lawah—The end. | [436] |
| | [APPENDIX] | [444] |
| | [INDEX] | [447] |