Farther up the mountain one found curious ancient cave-dwellings, identical with those I have in a previous work described at Taklakot, in Tibet, the peculiar composition of the rock permitting the chambers to be hollowed out with comparative ease. These dwellings are very suitable for that climate, being relatively warm in winter and cool in summer, besides answering all the purposes of a fortress when built high up into a cliff. In Tibet itself these cliff-dwellings are most elaborate, and are connected by means of intricate passages and galleries going right up to the summit of the high cliff. Outer ways of communication are also noticeable, in the form of dangerous-looking steps and sharp and narrow gradients, by which the [[120]]lodgers can find access to or escape from their apartments.
Upon the higher Himahlyas, in certain selected points, such as on passes, or where two trails branch off, or near villages, is generally to be found a gay exhibition of flying prayers, hundreds of them, suspended from ropes stretched across upon high poles. Large banners are also frequently to be seen at these spots. Passing caravans make these favourite halting-places. Both the women of Tibet and those of neighbouring tribes often select these spots for stretching their hand-looms and weaving their fabrics.
The Tinker Glacier was a very beautiful sight with its high terraces, and we followed it for its entire length on our way up to the pass. It was a long and steep climb, mostly on snow, and as the trail was low down between high mountains to the S.W. and N.E. the sun did not penetrate for any length of time, so that the cold was intense. My men were rather heavily laden, and at sunset, owing to our late start, we had gone but a few miles.
We halted at a Tibetan camping-ground, where there were a number of black Tibetan tents, their occupants bolting full-speed up the mountain-side as soon as they saw us. After some coaxing, and [[121]]promises that we would in no way harm them, they gradually returned and attended to their business. The women had erected a great many looms outside the tents, and some jolly, but somewhat shaggy, females were noisily and busily engaged beating wool previous to packing; others were spinning it and winding it round long rods; others were speedily making narrow strips of cloth upon their looms. Upon receiving small presents they became quite friendly, and gave much information regarding the war preparations of their countrymen. They said thousands of soldiers were guarding the pass.
Next morning I went to see for myself, but the Tibetan soldiers had, when I arrived, already beaten a hasty retreat, leaving nothing more than their footmarks on the snow. Although I constantly heard of this formidable army, I never was able to catch it up during my incursions, or establish its exact position, much less meet it.
Everybody has heard so much of late of Tibetan scenery and travelling that it will perhaps be more agreeable to the reader if I devote most of the space which remains at my disposal to the description of some Tibetan customs. It is well known that Tibet is a high plateau, S.W. Tibet especially, where most of my exploration extended, averaging [[122]]heights of from 15,000 to 19,000 feet, so that people who live in such a climate and such a country are bound to have peculiarities of their own, and their ways offer many curious problems.
First of all, I will answer some of the most common questions—generally very stupid—which I am daily being asked by people who try to be clever, about the Forbidden Land.
“If you say that Tibet is such a high plateau, barren and cold, with no trees and no agriculture to speak of, how is it that the people live there?”
Well, if people stop to think a little, the same question applies to every country. Why do negroes live in Central Africa, where it is so hot? Why do people go and live in Panama, where it is so unhealthy? Why do we live in London, where it is so foggy and damp? In the case of the Tibetans, as with everybody else in regard to their native land, they believe that no country in the world can possibly compare with their own—which, indeed, in a sense, is true. They believe their land is the most beautiful, the richest, the healthiest on earth, their religion the only one, their civilisation the highest.
