Theory of Silk Weaving / A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics

by Arnold Wolfensberger

1. THE WEAVE

If a given sample is to be reproduced or imitated, it must be analyzed, and the following hints will greatly facilitate this operation to the beginner.

Cut the sample straight on two sides, and draw out a number of warp and filling threads until there is a small fringe of perhaps ¼ of an inch. This will allow a thread to be raised a little for examination, without danger of its falling out of the fabric. In most cases it is easier to dissect the filling side, that is, the interlacing of each warp-thread in the threads of the filling system. With the help of the microscope or counting glass we can easily determine over and under how many picks that thread passes and the points of interlacing are accordingly marked on designing paper. This being done for at least the length of a repeat warpways, we take it out and examine the following thread, and so on until the repeat filling-ways is complete. It is advisable to ascertain how many picks ahead or back of the first examined thread the next following one binds before taking the former out.

A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the foregoing chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple pattern by merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of interlacing and counting off how many picks apart from this place it makes an impression.

2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC

To the length and width which the finished product is to have, we must add a certain allowance for shrinkage and taking up of warp during weaving. It may differ from one to ten per cent., according to the texture and weave of the fabric, and can be ascertained with sufficient accuracy by stretching out and measuring a thread of warp and filling and comparing their length with the respective measurements of the sample to be reproduced.

3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE

Under this heading we must give the particulars as to nature, twist, quality and size of the silk, and the directions for the dyeing, whether bright or souple, and in what colors, also whether to be weighted or not.