Most goods gain from 3 to 7 per cent. in weaving. That is, if we make a warp of 300 meters for a satin and we obtain 315 yards of cloth, this gain should not be calculated, as usually there is no account taken of samples used in the selling department. But the loss in length should be figured and taken account of on goods with a heavy rib, such as moiré, faille, etc.
DISP. 7—A 3 1/3-inch repeat can be obtained with a 600-hook jacquard machine, seven repeats in a width of 23 inches.
DISP. 8—Taffeta weave, but the two cotton picks must go in one hole. This article can only be made with at least two shuttle boxes on each side. For warping use a single and double cross reed, heavy cotton, no knots must be tied.
DISP. 10—This article must be warped with as much tension as possible and no knots should be tied in. Silk is to be delivered on bobbins from throwster.
CANTON CREPE
DISP. 9—Can also be made with Canton silk for filling and may be called Canton crêpe. As Canton silk is much cheaper than Japan, the manufacturer can use 4-thread Canton instead of 3-thread Japan for filling at a little difference in cost, thus the cloth will be heavier, but Canton silk is not as even and clean as Japan.
| Article—TAFFETA GLACE Reed 70/3 | ||||
| Disp. 1 | Width 18¾ in. | |||
| Warp— | Ital. Ex. Class 12/14 | $5.00 | raw silk | |
| .60 | throwing | |||
| 2-Thread Organ. brown bright | .45 | dyeing | ||
| 16-oz. | .15 | winding | ||
| —— | ||||
| raw lbs. 2.60 | $6.20 | $16.23 | ||
| Warping—4032 at 3¢. | 1.21 | |||
| Twisting—3978 at 25¢. per 300 meters | .33 | |||
| Filling—Jap. Tram. Best No. 1 13/15 | $4.25 | raw silk | ||
| .45 | throwing | |||
| 2/2 ends 104 picks | .45 | dyeing | ||
| .15 | winding | |||
| gold bright 16 oz. | .15 | doubling | ||
| .10 | quilling | |||
| —— | ||||
| raw lbs. 2.73 | $5.55 | 15.02 | ||
| Weaving | 7.00 | |||
| Picking | 1.00 | |||
| Finishing | 1.00 | |||
| Expenses | 7.00 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $48.79 | ||||
| 5% trade discount | ||||
| 7½% selling commission | ||||
| Divide by 87½ | ||||
| Cost per yard = $0.5576 | ||||
| Article—SURAH 3-1 Reed 80/2 | ||||
| Disp. 2 | Width 36 in. | |||
| Warp— | Ital. Ex. Class. 10/12 | $5.20 | ||
| .65 | ||||
| 2-Thread Organ. bright black | .81 | discount 15% | ||
| 24 oz. | .30 | dyed 20% | ||
| —— | ||||
| lbs. 3.36 | $6.96 | $23.39 | ||
| Warping—5904 at 2¾¢. | 1.62 | |||
| Twisting—5872 at 35¢.—600 lb. warp | .25 | |||
| Filling—cotton 120/1 | $1.25 | |||
| .10 | dye | |||
| black 1 end 120 picks | .08 | winding | ||
| .07 | quilling | |||
| —— | ||||
| lbs. 9.50 | $1.50 | 14.25 | ||
| Weaving | 12.00 | |||
| Picking | 1.50 | |||
| Finishing | 2.00 | |||
| Expenses | 7.00 | |||
| —— | ||||
| $62.01 | ||||
| 5% discount | ||||
| 6% commission | ||||
| Divide by 89 | ||||
| Cost per yard = $0.6967 | ||||