LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| TO FACE PAGE | |
| The Source of the Blue Nile, showing Lake in theDistance | [Frontispiece] |
| The Start ahead of the Caravan | [4] |
| Children at No. 6 Station, between Halfa andAbou Hamed, eat the Remains of Lunch, Curry and Rice | [4] |
| The Welcome at Abou Harras | [13] |
| Village Musicians at Abou Harras | [14] |
| The Wells at the Foot of Gebal Arang | [18] |
| Mr. Flemming’s House at Gedaref | [22] |
| Rest-house between Goz Regeb and Adarama | [22] |
| Gum-bearing Mimosa Trees | [30] |
| Trying the Temperature of a Patient at theDoctor’s Parade | [30] |
| Rain Country | [64] |
| The Knotted Sapling now become a Tree | [66] |
| Messenger sent to stop us going down to theLake | [68] |
| Houses at Delgi | [79] |
| Washing out “Tedj” Pots at Delgi | [79] |
| A Case of Leprosy | [104] |
| Fording the River Gumara | [106] |
| Interested in the Photographic Camera | [110] |
| Women dancing at the Feast of the Epiphany | [110] |
| The “Candelabra Euphorbia” on the Edge of a DryWater-course | [114] |
| Between Sara and Korata | [114] |
| The Church at Korata containing theFrescoes | [118] |
| The Portuguese Bridge over the Blue Nile | [118] |
| Frescoes in the Church at Korata | [120] |
| Our Guide between Korata and Woreb | [132] |
| The Donkeys crossing the Ferry | [140] |
| The Mules swimming the Ferry | [140] |
| Pushing the Donkeys into the Water, preparatoryto their being ferried across | [142] |
| Interior of the Church at Bahardar Georgis | [154] |
| Market-day at Zegi | [162] |
| Interviewing the Sultan of Delgi | [170] |
| The Sultan of Delgi, an Old Priest, and Slavecarrying the Shield | [170] |
| Head of a Haartebeest | [184] |
| “Lates Niloticus” caught with a Trout-rod | [184] |
| Hadendowa, Camel-driver | [186] |
| Dinka Boy, Camel-driver | [186] |
| Soudanese with Amulets | [190] |
| At the Well, Goratia | [190] |
| Kassala Hill and Market-place | [204] |
| The Moudirieh at Kassala | [206] |
| Tents pitched in the Enclosure of the Moudiriehat Kassala | [206] |
| Goz Regeb Granite Stone, Mimosa Scrub in theDistance | [208] |
| Goz Regeb Stones | [208] |
| Rocks at Goz Regeb | [210] |
| Rocks at Goz Regeb Hill | [210] |
| A Mirage, showing Goz Regeb Hill in theDistance | [212] |
| Lord Kitchener’s Bridge over the Atbara, nearBerber | [214] |
| MAPS | |
| The Anglo-Egyptian Soudan | [At end of Volume] |
| [Lake Tsana] | „ |
THE
SOURCE OF THE BLUE NILE
CHAPTER I
In October, 1902, I was acting as Medical Inspector of the native quarter of Alexandria. Cholera had kept the staff busy, and we had brought the number of cases down to about fifteen in the last days of the month. I had passed the disinfecting gangs in review one morning before sending them to their allotted quarters of the town, and had just resumed my work in the hospital, when I heard a voice sing out to me—without preliminary—“Hayes, would you like to go to Abyssinia?”
It was the Chief Inspector of the Sanitary Department who asked the question. By the evening I had made up my mind, and told him that I should be glad to take the chance. However, I heard nothing more of the matter till the middle of November. Then I received a telegram directing me to make my preparations in Cairo. And I had no time to waste; for I learned that the expedition to which I was attached would start in seven days. The “jumping-off place” would be close to Khartoum.
Twenty years earlier the journey thither would have had a lingering fascination of romance. Ten years earlier it would probably have brought the traveller by painful paths to the Land of No Return. To-day it lies within the range of the prudent tourist who prefers safe adventures between regular meals. He is much indebted to Lord Kitchener.
In Cairo I joined my companions Mr. Dupuis and Mr. Crawley. They had had arrangements for the expedition in hand for many months; indeed, it had been planned for the previous year, but the illness of Sir William Garstin at Khartoum delayed it. On November 27 we reached Assouan. Like hundreds of my fellow-countrymen, I photographed the great dam, and the temple of Philæ. Our next stage was by post-boat to Wady Halfa, where we arrived on December 1. In the evening of that day we took train on the Soudan Government Railway. The following morning I had a new experience; for I had never before seen the mirage from the window of a railway carriage.